I actually had it out the back the whole control arm went with it tho so i pit the lca pin back on the kframe to get it out
So, you're saying the torsion bar is stuck on the LCA, not stuck in the rear anchor?
I actually had it out the back the whole control arm went with it tho so i pit the lca pin back on the kframe to get it out
Yes!!! Its free in the rear it won't come out of the lcaSo, you're saying the torsion bar is stuck on the LCA, not stuck in the rear anchor?
Yes!!! Its free in the rear it won't come out of the lca
Ok thanks I'm gonna try and save them at all cost they are not cheap to replace and they are not in the budget lol what's the best way to get the pivot pin out with the torsion bar still in? On the other side I had to press the pin out of the lca with a bolt from the inside of the lca. Could I heat the rubber on that side without heating the bar maybe?
Now I'm confused lol i thought you said to remove the pivot and drive the t bar off thru the pin hole? Is that right?
The torsion bars don't appear to be in bad shape to me there dirty but not rusted no pitting or anything I will take some better pics later I have been extra careful to not gouge or hit them.
Ok gotcha. Yes I know the t bar won't go thru the lca lol I thought you ment to remove the pin from the lca and use the the hole the pin goes in to access the back of the tbar and drive it off. Like going thru the lca to drive it off I thought that's what you ment! Thank you for your help I will look for some tbars!!Not what I said. You can't drive the torsion bar through the LCA, that's not possible. The hole in the LCA is smaller than the torsion bar on the other side of the torsion bar lever.
If the bar will slide out the back of the rear anchor, you can remove the nut on the pivot, slide the bar back, and the LCA will drop down some so you can strike the back of the LCA and drive it off the end of the torsion bar. Driving the LCA off the torsion bar will be more effective than trying to "pull" the bar out of the LCA, which is basically what you're trying to do now.
Those bars are more than dirty. And regardless, they're a 43+ year old critical suspension part that supports your entire car, with an unknown history and who knows how many miles. And even if they were in great shape, these cars were undersprung from the factory, resulting in that extremely dated, "drives like a barge" '70's handling. What you do is up to you, but of all the things that can be replaced for $200 or so the torsion bars are one of the first things I would replace, and the last thing I would try and save money on.
Yes I have everthing new !What about strut rod bushings while you're there and did you order the offset UCA bushings?
Sorry I miss read that yes i have new uca bushings but they are not offset they are just regular bushings what is the offset for more adjustment range?Yes I have everthing new !
Sorry I miss read that yes i have new uca bushings but they are not offset they are just regular bushings what is the offset for more adjustment range?
What torsion bar size would you recommend?
Are those bushings needed for later models too? Mine is a 75 ! Iv already ordered my bushing I just got factory replacement bushing! If it's a huge deal i can order more.
Worked great for me too!run the nut on until its flush with the top and then use a ball joint seperator to break the taper. Itll POP but wont go anywhere.
Best $8 I spent at HF...
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