Battery kill switch location

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I installed mine just like rmchrgr did, I didn't want any holes though the body or taillights either

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That's the cleanest place I've seen for folks not wanting to put a visible hole in their car. Nice work!

I believe NHRA still wants it to be clearly labeled "Push Off" and hopefully it's easy enough for them to see it. I can see a tech official bitching that he can't see the lever.
 
Depends on who techs the car, NHRA rule is the switch has to be on the positive side of the battery, and has to push off. So I feel that the label is redundant. There are a lot of cars that go through tech that are not legal. Not sure if the rule now, but it used to have to be on the right side of the vehicle
 
Now those are BOTH slick!!
Thank you. I didn't want to make holes in my nice original panel either. Before the push lever I had a rotary switch under the bumper. It was fine but the stealth-y, Ricky Racer lever has more panache.

Putting the lever through the license plate opening introduces switch actuation issues depending on where the switch is in relation to the battery. I ended up making this goofy lever to reach it. I can fit a fuel cell in if I decide to go that route.

Looks a bit wonky but it works.
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You could also employ a series of bell cranks to actuate the switch but that would have taken a bit more brain power to execute than bending an aluminum rod. Similarly, I thought about putting the lever under the bumper and mounting it solidly to the rear frame rail to actuate a bell crank under the switch. If I had thought of that before welding the switch mount to the floor I probably would have tried to go that route but it wouldn't have worked as it is now.

If I was to do this again I'd use a solid state disconnect switch. You can basically mount them anywhere outside the vehicle as long as it's accessible to track safety personnel. I'd probably figure out a way to wire the push button through a bumper bolt. They are very expensive though.

Race Wire solid state disconnect switch
 
Thank you. I didn't want to make holes in my nice original panel either. Before the push lever I had a rotary switch under the bumper. It was fine but the stealth-y, Ricky Racer lever has more panache.

Putting the lever through the license plate opening introduces switch actuation issues depending on where the switch is in relation to the battery. I ended up making this goofy lever to reach it. I can fit a fuel cell in if I decide to go that route.

Looks a bit wonky but it works.
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You could also employ a series of bell cranks to actuate the switch but that would have taken a bit more brain power to execute than bending an aluminum rod. Similarly, I thought about putting the lever under the bumper and mounting it solidly to the rear frame rail to actuate a bell crank under the switch. If I had thought of that before welding the switch mount to the floor I probably would have tried to go that route but it wouldn't have worked as it is now.

If I was to do this again I'd use a solid state disconnect switch. You can basically mount them anywhere outside the vehicle as long as it's accessible to track safety personnel. I'd probably figure out a way to wire the push button through a bumper bolt. They are very expensive though.

Race Wire solid state disconnect switch
Do you get much flex with the rod bent at those angles? At some point in time I’ll need to relocate the battery in my Dart and keeping my options open.
 
Do you get much flex with the rod bent at those angles? At some point in time I’ll need to relocate the battery in my Dart and keeping my options open.
No, not that I can tell. I can whack the lever with my palm like someone might do in an emergency and it actuates the switch perfectly. The rod is 1/2" diameter solid round stock. When you put a bend in something it usually makes whatever it is more rigid.

As you can see in the pic the switch itself is mounted to an L bracket which is welded to the floor. The rod is supported by a small bracket that is also welded to the floor right when it enters the trunk. It's pretty solid.
 
No, not that I can tell. I can whack the lever with my palm like someone might do in an emergency and it actuates the switch perfectly. The rod is 1/2" diameter solid round stock. When you put a bend in something it usually makes whatever it is more rigid.

As you can see in the pic the switch itself is mounted to an L bracket which is welded to the floor. The rod is supported by a small bracket that is also welded to the floor right when it enters the trunk. It's pretty solid.

Thanks, was curious as the switch I have takes a pretty good amount of pressure to “switch” either way and assume yours is the same. I haven’t bought a mount kit yet, so not sure how much the lever that mounts to the switch changes the force required to rotate it, just have the knob.

Bends increase rigidity in things like panels, however in the case of something like this it actually makes it weaker. The strongest connection would be to have the line of force actuating directly on the switch without any offset. This is why roll bats are made as straight as possible.
 

If it matters, the material was annealed before bending it so it’s work hardened in those spots. Is what it is.

Like I said, if I have to re-do it I’ll use the solid state switch instead.
 
Errrr...through the trunk keyhole! The PO had done this so I kept it when I rewired the car. It's a simple rotary switch and mounted in the center of the rear in case of an accident hitting a corner. The trunk is opened via a cable pull that is mounted by the driver's side rear quarter window behind the rear seat. The keyhole is completely intact so if I ever want/need to change it back, I can.

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I like that Idea and going to show my son for the Demon. I won't ruin a Demon tail light. I have a bunch but they are getting hard to find the housings. 70-71 Duster I ran out of room to store them. 72 Duster are like hens teeth . Only one set on the patch.
 
Yes it had an inboard kit. The tires were 29 X14.5 quick time pro's . They hit in the front so I moved the inboard kit back 1/2 " I also moved the front of the quarter ahead 3/4 " They would hit in the rear that is why I put the chrome chip flaps on so the tires wouldn't rub the paint

When those tires wore out I put 28 X 14.5's on The rims were 15 X 12 with a 7.5 Back space. The 28's fit much better. I am having the wheels cut to a 6" back space and having them done with dual Bead locks by Mac for a 315 radial tire car. I have two sets the other set will be for a 29 X 10.5 slick , so we will leave them as they are. First picture is 29's Second picture is 28's and the third is 315's , the next pic is 315 next to a 275 drag radial on the other,We have two sets . the last is the 28' next to the 315's on the same 12 inch wheels. The 275's fit the best with the factory quarters,

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Thanks for the info on your car. I really appreciate it.
 
Leave the battery up front, much easier that moving it to the back. I have an XS battery weights 22 pounds
In some ways I agree. Trunk battery is a PITA and introduces unnecessary complexity to a simple system. Probably also have 15lbs of wire running the length of the car.

Dusters in particular are light in the back though so having 40+lbs behind the rear axle does improve front-to-rear weight balance a bit.
 
I did drill a hole in the tail panel - I made sure to touch up the paint so there's no bare metal and found a perfect sized plastic bushing that stays in place and looks clean.
I see some really good ideas on here.
Makes me wish I would've made a thread like this before doing mine.

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I did drill a hole in the tail panel - I made sure to touch up the paint so there's no bare metal and found a perfect sized plastic bushing that stays in place and looks clean.
I see some really good ideas on here.
Makes me wish I would've made a thread like this before doing mine.

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That looks clean. Beautiful car you got there!
 
That looks clean. Beautiful car you got there!
Very much appreciated.
Bought the car in '83, recently did a 6 year rotisserie resto.
Did everything myself except the paint and transmission.
I honestly thought I'd never survive.....It was a love/hate relationship :rofl:

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