best engine to build!!!!!

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duster731

duster731

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What would be the best, easiest (less complicated) cheapest engine you would build for a street strip a body big block or small block..... I'm talking about a reasonable build but the best bang for the buck to get some really good HP that an average person could build like me :) and of course there's power adders and the easiest one is nos but let's just stick with all motor builds....
 
What would you change in the is package to get more HP or what wpuld you add and still be considered street friendly

Package nine:
360 rebuilt with 10:1 compression flat top cast pistons, original crank turned .010"/.010", rebuilt factory rods. Factory windage tray installed. 2.02" heads with competition valve job and ported to flow 260 cfm. Edelbrock RPM intake, port/gasket matched. Holley H.P. 750 (.076" front, .080" rear jets). Large 1 3/4" primary tube headers. Comp Cams 305AH-8 camshaft with .525"/.540" lift and 305/312 degree advertised duration, 253/260 degrees @ .050", 110 lsa, installed at 108 intake centerline. This motor is a brute for a street car and would only be considered a weekend blaster. 495 h.p. @ 6,000 rpm 500 lbs. of torque @ 4,500 rpm
 
I recently saw a complete 360 for sale for $250. Put some different pistons in it, work on the heads a little and put the right cam in it and you would have a pretty basic engine that anyone could build. AND, you could do it for $2500 or so!
 
I would do a 360 like you mentioned in package nine, post #7.
Then add TTI headers.
 
just add a 4 inch stroker crank and hold on wicked bang for your buck
 
You already have all the sb parts. A 360 and stroke it. Best bang for your buck on the street or strip.
 

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what can be done to the package nine i mentioned to reach 500 hp would an rpm air gap work or afr heads......... how much money would you think that it would cost to build package from scratch sseeing that i dont have any of the parts and should i upgrade to a 727 trans
 
duster731 said:
what can be done to the package nine i mentioned to reach 500 hp would an rpm air gap work or afr heads......... how much money would you think that it would cost to build package from scratch sseeing that i dont have any of the parts and should i upgrade to a 727 trans
Click to expand...
Just curious, How fresh is your current setup? Did you do the work? Are you just wanting more power or is your 318 getting tired??

If you want to do a 360, You could work with a trusted supplier and build package #9 yourself. They can price all the parts for you. If you're working with someone you trust, they can help you through it with things like making sure the Crank & Bearings match up, the Pistons & Rings match the bore. This way you can build it to your exact needs.
I think we need a bit more info as to what you really want. Your current setup sounds like a real fun street machine already.
 
You are on a budget, you want street friendly and this is your first build.

First. What is "Street Friendly"? Do you plan on driving this most of the time?


Getting to 500hp and feeding/maintaining 500hp are 2 totally different things.
 
That comp 305h isn't very street friendly. It's 253 at .050 which will make it pretty aggressive.

If I was going to try to build a street friendly 360, I'd start with a roller block and put a pretty good sized hyd roller in it.
 
OwdKasd said:
Just curious, How fresh is your current setup? Did you do the work? Are you just wanting more power or is your 318 getting tired??

If you want to do a 360, You could work with a trusted supplier and build package #9 yourself. They can price all the parts for you. If you're working with someone you trust, they can help you through it with things like making sure the Crank & Bearings match up, the Pistons & Rings match the bore. This way you can build it to your exact needs.
I think we need a bit more info as to what you really want. Your current setup sounds like a real fun street machine already.
Click to expand...


my 318 has about 4,000 miles on it i rebuilt it myself and all planned by me its a good running motor and sounds good to but it was my first engine i built and after learning and makig mistakes i wanna build a 360 but i was asking in general what would YOU guys build.

i have some guys bashing on me saying im not a mopar guy and who would build a 318 etc mostly bb guys and i love my 318 but ive always wanted to go bigger this was just the beginning of my car hobby.....

so what i plan to do is build a ultimate 360 that would scare people including me lol..... and yes all work is done by me exept machie work of course
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
You are on a budget, you want street friendly and this is your first build.

First. What is "Street Friendly"? Do you plan on driving this most of the time?


Getting to 500hp and feeding/maintaining 500hp are 2 totally different things.
Click to expand...


budget of cousre who isnt lol but building aan ultimate street engine wot happen for a while but i like to plan ahead and pick up parts as i go
 
Like previously stated......roller cam 360 block.

Sourced from 88-91 D250, B250, and 4x4 Ramchargers ONLY....not available in ANY other trucks/cars.

Right now (2011) is prime time to find this 3 year production block.

They come with 308 casting W2 style "raised exhaust port floor" 1.88intake 1.60exhaust valves, and flow "pretty good" in stock form.

They have 7/16 pushrod holes....all other SB heads have 3/8" push rod holes.

Roller Lifters....which means you can change cams and use the original lifters over and over.

They come with HV oil pumps..and double roller timing chains.
(I would replace with New Parts for a Build though...and go as far as to add a MP 3.9/5.2/5.9L SB Timing Chain tensioner to rock steady the timing)
Here is the one I used on my 89 Roller 360
Roller360002.jpg


With a cam of approx 230 duration and .550" lift, a good P&P on the heads, stock CR (8.8:1) a AirGap or Good Single Plane....you would be knocking on 500 crankshaft horsepower on Stock Pistons and Rotating Assembly....with headers and proper sized exhaust system (no 2" duals here....this build recommendation assumes 2.5 Pipe and straight through mufflers....like Glass packs....no flowmasters here)

The camshaft determines the amount of air the engine will move.

There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using a Hydraulic Cam LA (Non-Roller Cam) instead.....meaning a 360 from any year 72-87........except for the fact that the Hyd Roller is quieter, and you can reuse the lifters on cam swaps, and the less frictional, rotational mass.

LAMoparPic.jpg

But in the end of all this....your still going to end up like the rest of us.
Frankly, 500 crankshaft horsepower translates to 415 wheel horsepower.....which is "fun" but its not the kind of power that will impress everyone.....Breaking the street tires loose from 0-20 mph is cool....but not the crazyiest amount of power seen these days.
While its fun and all....it doesnt take long to start wondering what to do to get that next little bit more power cause that 2011 5.0 Mustang was a little stouter from a dig than we thought....and you'll be regretting not stacking the power more to your side...What you need to do is Single Turbocharge it..70 or 76mm T4 based ..and stuff another 15psi and 800cfm of air through it....and you can finally realize what its like to harness 4 digit horsepower/torque on street tires and pump gas....blazing BOTH tires from 60-70mph rolls and accelerating so hard it scares everyone who ever feels the boost kick in.

This 1969 Dart runs Easy 10's on a single turbo SB.
[ame="http://youtu.be/qBfcq93Mgl4"]302 Found[/ame]

Thats whats up.
 
Even though the factory HP rating of these engines was an abysmal 190 hp, the torque was right where it always was, 275 plus.
The culprit behind the low power numbers....is what it always is.

Lack of Performance Oriented Fuel Induction (2bbl, or dual TBI, or smogged 4bbl)

Daily Driver OEM Camshaft lift (under .450") and duration under 264*

2 into 1 restrictive/quiet exhaust system with or without cats

8.8:1 Compression (which is "good/ideal" for pump gas and boost)
 
The way you put bang for your buck it sounds like a stock big block build with bolt ons would tickle your fancy. That is assuming motor mounts and stuff aren't a huge cost. I really am not a huge big block guy so i don't know.

360 would be the best small block to get your bang for your buck. there is no replacement for displacement. that is very true. I love my 318 but bang for the buck a bigger engine is always better. so bang for the buck just find the biggest damn engine you can find for the right price!

If you wan't it to handle well a big block might not be the right choice for you. but straight line just drop a 440 in it and be done with it!
 
AFR makes MoPar heads? Since when?

To top the 500 HP mark out of the posted build, try a larger carb. 750 cfm could go up 50 more cfm on a build like that. But you'll never notice the 5hp. At this point, it's just a braggers right.

The above mention of a stock Big Block would intale a good running solid engine and one of a good year. Not a low comp. smogger.
 
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