Best way to torque crank bolt

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65TerrorCuda

65TerrorCuda

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What's the best way to hold the crankshaft still while torquing the damper, in lieu of having a helper do the prybar-in-the-ring gear trick? Is stuffing rope through the spark plug hole a bad idea?
 
I just use an impact wrench with locktite.
 
Last one I did, I had the pan off, and I used the handle of a hammer and wedged it between the crank and the block to keep the crank from spinning.
 
StrokerScamp said:
I just use an impact wrench with locktite.
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I will add a cautionary tale here.

I did exactly this on my 318. Unfortunately, I somehow managed to bottom out the crank bolt inside the crank. Not sure how, I used the same bolt, same washer, same damper, etc. At any rate, when the bolt bottomed it must have completely rolled the last thread, as the crank bolt will now come out 2 revolutions before it stops. And, it STOPS. Impact wrench, breaker bar, heating it with a torch to a nice cherry red, it doesn't move. So, I had to cut the head off the bolt to finish disassembling the engine. I have another crankshaft for this build, but should I ever need that one it'll have to be in the hands of a machine shop.

So, be careful using that impact wrench.
 
Like stated earlier, hammer handle wedged between the crank arm and block works the best.
 
Not sure if it is the same for these cars, but on my other car, I put a long bolt through one of the holes on the balancer and wedged a bar against that and an accessory bracket to keep it from turning. The bolt may bend so make sure it isn't needed for anything else.
 
No, put nothing down the spark plug hole...
If you have to, I think the best way would be to brace the crank with the hammer handle or a block of wood. You should not need locktite on the crank bolt. (other makes yes, Mopars, no)
You should be using a dampener installer, and then torquing the bolt with a torque wrench. Although in the past I have also been guilty of using the crank bolt to pull the dampener on...
The easiest way I've done it is after the balancer is seated fully with the installer, put a couple small bolts thru the pulley bolt holes, us a large prybar between the two bolts to hold it while you torque it with the torque wrench.
 
It's been a while, but I believe I've wedged a piece of wood between the flywheel teeth and the bellhousing. Maybe a piece of aluminum would work; I wouldn't use anything made of steel, you could damage the flywheel teeth.
 
Just to be clear, the OP asked about installing the crank BOLT, not the balancer. I mean, really now......if you have one eye and half sense, you won't over torque a crank bolt with an impact. Just install the balancer with the proper tool, start the bolt by hand and run it down until the impact gives about five or six smacks. That's tight enough. I always put locktight on every one I do. I don't care if it "needs" it or not. It's just good insurance. Course, every impact is different. Some of them Ingersol Rands are bad pups. If you're not used to what your impact feels like, use a torque wrench. But since I've been usin the same old red Mac Tools impact over twenty years, I'm pretty familiar with it.
 
72bluNblu said:
I will add a cautionary tale.....EDIT....be careful using that impact wrench

.............on my 318. EDIT ---used impact wrench---EDIT...... I managed to bottom out the crank bolt inside the crank. ........... the bolt bottomed it must have completely rolled the last thread,......... the crank bolt will come out 2 revolutions before it .. STOPS..... Impact wrench, breaker bar, heating it with a torch to a nice cherry red, it doesn't move.
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The use of an impact had nothing to do with this problem. If the bolthole was too short, or the bolt too long, the impact did not cause the problem. Someone else wrote something earlier claiming that they installed the dampener and bolt, and the washer was "free." This indicates to me that possibly some cranks are not tapped deep enough.

I know on the BB engines, at some point there was a change in the cam drive----is it possible that some folks are getting thinner sprockets than original?
 
67Dart273 said:
The use of an impact had nothing to do with this problem. If the bolthole was too short, or the bolt too long, the impact did not cause the problem. Someone else wrote something earlier claiming that they installed the dampener and bolt, and the washer was "free." This indicates to me that possibly some cranks are not tapped deep enough.

I know on the BB engines, at some point there was a change in the cam drive----is it possible that some folks are getting thinner sprockets than original?
Click to expand...

That's a very good point and worth checking every time.
 
I am with StrokerScamp.........
I use a balancer installer........then use an Impact with the PSI set under the torque recommendation of 135lbs. Give it a few wacks and its done.

I always use a new bolt and washer and check the length first before going after it.
 
I watched a buddy of mine tap the bolt on his chevy with in impact just a couple times....not over doing it or nothing, and it ripped the threads right out of the snout of the crank lol (might just be a chevy thing HAHAHA)

I NORMALLY use torque wrench on most engine assembly and If I were doing it by myself and the oil pan was on....I would probably wedge a screw driver in the back on the ring gear and start torquing away.

but I have also done it with an impact and as said before.....if you have common sense you will know when to stop with the impact lol

If I use an impact I will normally watch the balancer snout sink into the timing cover and when it stops sinking in is normally about the time the sound the impact makes changes from a "clack clack clack" to a "tunk tunk tunk" ....I normally let it make the "tunk" noise about 3 times and then let off
 
You know why? Because the chevy bolts are only 1/2" diameter. SISSY bolts. LOL. The balancer bolt on my 400 is 3/4" fine thread. Damn thing has a 1 1/4" hex head on it. Whopper john.
 
have a buddy hold the flywheel with a flywheel holding tool, and torque the bolt to the factory spec with a torque wrench. Its worth using the right tools to prevent damage to the flywheel, oil pan or whatever else you try to hold a screwdriver against.
 
I put a deep socket in the crank balance hole and snug it up against the pan rail with a shop rag as a pad. I dont have an impact and all my crank bolt play has been with the pan off or in a stand. 135 lbs. I actually cross threaded a crank 20 years ago, dont know how.
 
I just take a 1 1/4 socket & 1/2 drive ratchet, tighten the bolt till the crank turns...then whap it real hard with a lil sledge hammer a couple of times.

I've never had one come loose, no loc tite.
And I wind these motors up past 7k, and also keep good pulley alignment.

Flame away, ha ha ha
 
oh....and I tap the balancer on with a dead blow hammer.

on most slants...you have to dead blow it on and real careful too or you'll crack the hub, I've done that once but now have the 'magic touch'
 
I'm surprised that nobody mentioned just buying the correct tool for the job. Mancini Racing as well as other places sell a simple tool for holding the damper when tightening or loosening the crankshaft bolt.
 
AndyF said:
I'm surprised that nobody mentioned just buying the correct tool for the job. Mancini Racing as well as other places sell a simple tool for holding the damper when tightening or loosening the crankshaft bolt.
Click to expand...

I guess that's just the dumbass caveman in all of us. I suppose you're talkin about this?

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/damperholder.html

Looks easy as all getout to make.
 
never knew they made such a thing .....and yes, it looks super easy to make
 
Yep, that is the tool I was thinking of. It has a 1/2 square drive hole in it for a breaker bar so it is easy to use. And it doesn't take up much space in a tool box. There is also a similiar tool that holds the crankshaft flange. The crank tool works better on an engine stand while the damper tool works better in the car.
 
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