Break in gone bad... 360

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I agree with jpar. Drill a whole in the edge of thermostat, after you have checked it in a pot on the stove for correct opening. I'm thinking airlock, too. When you said it was smoking, where was it smoking? Can you be more specific? exhaust tailpipes? is it just paInt, and oil burning off the engine and exhaust manifolds/pipes?
 
That got really hot in just a couple of minutes, plus that plug looks not just hot, but lean too. I don’t think the mixture made it overheat, but it didn’t help.

The discolored area you mentioned is most likely caused by heat from the central exhaust valves, already a hot spot, with runaway temps it can really cook some parts.

I’d check the thermostat for correct opening, if it doesn’t have an air bleed port I’d drill a 1/16” hole as mentioned. It won’t affect the warm up but will let the air bleed out before you even start it up.

Check your water pump impeller, they’ve been known to slip on the shaft when revved up.
 
SKnight said:
That got really hot in just a couple of minutes, plus that plug looks not just hot, but lean too. I don’t think the mixture made it overheat, but it didn’t help.

The discolored area you mentioned is most likely caused by heat from the central exhaust valves, already a hot spot, with runaway temps it can really cook some parts.

I’d check the thermostat for correct opening, if it doesn’t have an air bleed port I’d drill a 1/16” hole as mentioned. It won’t affect the warm up but will let the air bleed out before you even start it up.

Check your water pump impeller, they’ve been known to slip on the shaft when revved up.
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I'VE never seen an impeller slip on a SB mopar, but I have definitely seen it happen on a mopar 3.5L v6. I know enough to say, "never say never". I agree, way lean mixture can aggravate a bad situation.
 
rustycowll69 said:
I'VE never seen an impeller slip on a SB mopar, but I have definitely seen it happen on a mopar 3.5L v6. I know enough to say, "never say never". I agree, way lean mixture can aggravate a bad situation.
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I’ve seen the slipping impeller twice, both aftermarket pumps from China, but still possible. They would idle fine but heat up as you revved the engine, the first one caused me fits until I turned it by hand and felt it hitting the housing. Took the pump off and found the impeller loose. Years later the second was much easier to figure out.
 
SKnight said:
I’ve seen the slipping impeller twice, both aftermarket pumps from China, but still possible. They would idle fine but heat up as you revved the engine, the first one caused me fits until I turned it by hand and felt it hitting the housing. Took the pump off and found the impeller loose. Years later the second was much easier to figure out.
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like I said, I'VE never seen it, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. That's good to know you've seen it. This is exactly what the forum is for. No ONE has seen it, done it all, but together we have a huge experience repository.
 
The perfect storm? Little lean, little not enough timing, little air lock....
I agree where someone said maybe the tolerances are to tight or oiling was incorrect also. Sounds like you're on it, so please keep us posted.
 
36 degrees or so at around 2000-2300. I was breaking in the cam of course. I have seen those seals push into the springs on several new builds. Not mine but other folks. I personally like an OEM style a little more. They fit so tight on the stem.
 
Mopar92 said:
36 degrees or so at around 2000-2300. I was breaking in the cam of course. I have seen those seals push into the springs on several new builds. Not mine but other folks. I personally like an OEM style a little more. They fit so tight on the stem.
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There is absolutely no reason you can not shut the engine down if its getting too hot and then refire and continue break in once cooled/sorted. I have done this many times especially when anxiety is high or there are leaks. I have seen air pockets in the cylinder heads many times and I've seen the impeller come loose on brand new Milodon big block pumps more than once. This is where the dyno has a distinct advantage. Also the metal clad Viton valve stem seals are the only way to fly these days. J.Rob
 
Did engine seem to misfire at all when getting hot?
Have to agree with a vacuum leak, as already mentioned.
 
RAMM said:
There is absolutely no reason you can not shut the engine down if its getting too hot and then refire and continue break in once cooled/sorted. I have done this many times especially when anxiety is high or there are leaks. I have seen air pockets in the cylinder heads many times and I've seen the impeller come loose on brand new Milodon big block pumps more than once. This is where the dyno has a distinct advantage. Also the metal clad Viton valve stem seals are the only way to fly these days. J.Rob
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Oh so true. If it is getting too hot, shut it down and figure out why. In fact I deliberately break my flat tappet engines in now in three ten minute sessions. Fire it up, run it for ten minutes, shut it down and cool it off and then go for another ten minutes, until I've got 30 minutes of running time.
 
SKnight said:
I’ve seen the slipping impeller twice, both aftermarket pumps from China, but still possible. They would idle fine but heat up as you revved the engine, the first one caused me fits until I turned it by hand and felt it hitting the housing. Took the pump off and found the impeller loose. Years later the second was much easier to figure out.
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Had a pump impeller break free on my old 64 426 back in the early seventies. Could NOT figure that out, finally pulled it apart had the rad out and the pump lying on the pavement. I actually stubbed my toe on the pump and it rattled!!
 
mycuda said:
Did engine seem to misfire at all when getting hot?
Have to agree with a vacuum leak, as already mentioned.
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Just the second I was calling it and shutting it off it dropped a cylinder and was smoking or antifreeze. Don’t see any coolant where it shouldn’t be so maybe it was oil smoke. Shut it down so fast there wasn’t much smoke. Headed to the machine shop now to see how hurt we are. I shouldn’t have focused so much on keeping the lifters spinning. It all got away from me so quick. Broken in 10 engines and never had any problems. Guess I had it coming.
 
IQ52 said:
Oh so true. If it is getting too hot, shut it down and figure out why. In fact I deliberately break my flat tappet engines in now in three ten minute sessions. Fire it up, run it for ten minutes, shut it down and cool it off and then go for another ten minutes, until I've got 30 minutes of running time.
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I even find 10 mins too hot especially in the summer months. I like to do 4-5 5 min "break in cycles" on the dyno. It truly is an awesome feature on the SF-902. On a roller cam I do maybe two cycles and if everything looks and sounds normal, a quick peak under the valve covers and let 'er eat. J.Rob
 
j par said:
I personally run a gutted thermostat in my race motor and pretty much that's the only one I've had to break in. I just started a motor last night for the first time since I've had it and I did drill a small hole in the thermostat.
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I agree with jpar, I always run a gutted thermostat. You need to get the air out and you need a restriction, if you take out the thermostat the water will go through the radiator to fast and not have time to cool, it will just get hotter and hotter.
 
I dropped the thermostat in boiling water and checked prior to this. That’s useless. Today I brought the water up to temp with a quality thermometer. It pops around 197. It’s a 160 t stat. I’m thinking this and I didn’t have enough advance. I’ll report back.
 
Mopar92 said:
I dropped the thermostat in boiling water and checked prior to this. That’s useless. Today I brought the water up to temp with a quality thermometer. It pops around 197. It’s a 160 t stat. I’m thinking this and I didn’t have enough advance. I’ll report back.
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well, yeah. You're not just checking for opening, but when it opens. My buddy, Brian, and I had a "boil-off", years ago. We put about a half dozen or more different branded t-stats in a pan of heating water, monitored with a candy making thermometer. I distinctly remember that the best one was made by Robertshaw. Unfortunately, I don't think they make them anymore. Some of the others were pathetic. It might even be worse, nowadays.
 
rustycowll69 said:
well, yeah. You're not just checking for opening, but when it opens. My buddy, Brian, and I had a "boil-off", years ago. We put about a half dozen or more different branded t-stats in a pan of heating water, monitored with a candy making thermometer. I distinctly remember that the best one was made by Robertshaw. Unfortunately, I don't think they make them anymore. Some of the others were pathetic. It might even be worse, nowadays.
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You can get that robertshaw thermostat from Stewart Components.

That's the only thermostat I use. EVER. The rest are at best a crap shoot and most are JUNK. IMO, a 190 thermostat should be FULL OPEN at 190, not just starting to open. No way to control temp to 190 if the thermostat doesn't open until 190.
 
yellow rose said:
You can get that robertshaw thermostat from Stewart Components.

That's the only thermostat I use. EVER. The rest are at best a crap shoot and most are JUNK. IMO, a 190 thermostat should be FULL OPEN at 190, not just starting to open. No way to control temp to 190 if the thermostat doesn't open until 190.
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thanks, good to know. You wouldn't happen to know what's the deal with the oem t-stat in my 01 ram v10, would you? I heard that they cost like $50 from Chrysler!
 
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