Bulkhead corrosion = charging issue

-
I trust a solid wire a whole lot more than a spade connector.:violent1:

So you'll not have any spade connectors ?
My opinion is only that and based on what I have seen. Yes I have seen bulkhead terminal ports with melting. I have seen the fusible link connectors melted together.
Yes it happens and yes the factory moved the potential meltdown point to another location in anticipation/expectation of additional load. The stock equipment, being wiper motor, blower motor, and lighting, are not supposed to generate enough load to cause overheating anywhere. Those weren't tested to a 40 year life span. If you ever took worn out wiper pivots apart ( I have ) you could understand or at least imagine how the wiper motor struggles mostly on the up stroke. I do believe this short cycling high current load is a major contributor to bulkhead terminal melting.
One more thing to ad then I'll stand back and watch... During the 7 years that I serviced gauges there were plenty of examples for me to view/study. The very worst rally instrument panel I saw was shipped here from Daytona Dodge Service Dept. The car in their bay had suffered a dash fire that began at the ignition switch. Oil and temp gauges were ruined. I'm sure the bezel and lens were lost too although I didn't see those. The alternator / amp gauge was not involved in this dash fire.
That's one owner who has cause to be very mad @ electrical.
 

I have my primary red wire from the starter relay fed through the bulkhead eliminating the spade connector. My alternator charging wire - black 10 ga - no longer goes through the bulkhead via spade connector either. It now lands on the starter relay + terminal. The red and black wires which run up to the ammeter are butt spliced to the the primary feed 10 ga wire and the ammeter has been eliminated - red and black are connected with another butt splice.

I went ahead and eliminated the blue / white striped wire spade in the bulkhead. It is now also solid wire and it feeds a relay under the hood to feed all switched 12 V (blue wire) loads. I went ahead and added a switched 12v relay behind the dash to power all the new autometer gauges. From what I gather from the wiring diagram and the guys here, the red / black / blue wires have the most "going on" and therefore the greatest potential to create issues down the road.

Really sounds like more work than it is... I had to trace all my wires anyway to setup the new dash - fuel gauge / turn signals / oil pressure / water temp / low brake sensor etc... So unlooming the under hood / under dash stuff was kind of required.

Once I get back home I will be back at work on the duster!
 
-
Back
Top Bottom