Bulkhead wire size

-

Darren

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2006
Messages
1,629
Reaction score
716
Location
ontario
Hey guys.
Does anybody know the 2 ( or possibly 3) different gauge sizes of wires going through the bulkhead connector (1968 barracuda383s)?
I'm purchasing a new bulkhead connector and a few male and female connectors incase I have to replace a few, the website I'm ordering from has 3 or 4 different connector sizes.
Thanks advance
 
You're talking the metal terminals?
It depends on which connector your replacing.
AFAIK Chrysler used SAE 12 ga for the alternator output, although it some point IIRC it wsa bumped to 10 ga for standand option,
Most everything else was SAE 14, 16 and 18 gage. No 20 gage in the 60s.

However, the commercial F crimp terminal sizing seems to be based on typical AWG sizes and insulation. So in my experience its good to have a few options in case it seems like The crimp is loose.
This will give you an idea of what's out there for us.
Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals
 
Heres pic of schematic for bh connector. This is for 67 cuda. The dash harness. Theres quite a few different sizes. Basically from 12-18.

20210514_091823.jpg


20210514_091912.jpg
 
You may also need double wire terminals, look at the factory wiring diagram some if not all years have the wire size along with the color.


See post 3 above

Steve you beat me to it!

The proper crimpers are a must. Don't go cheap there.



Screenshot_20210514-072538.png
 
Last edited:
You're talking the metal terminals?
It depends on which connector your replacing.
AFAIK Chrysler used SAE 12 ga for the alternator output, although it some point IIRC it wsa bumped to 10 ga for standand option,
Most everything else was SAE 14, 16 and 18 gage. No 20 gage in the 60s.

However, the commercial F crimp terminal sizing seems to be based on typical AWG sizes and insulation. So in my experience its good to have a few options in case it seems like The crimp is loose.
This will give you an idea of what's out there for us.
Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals
Yes the metal connectors
Thanks Mattax for the info , definitely helps
 
I got a fair bit of wiring I bought and a couple harnesses(1 is a 68 cuda) as I redo our 67 dash harness. Some wiring is the odd colored stuff(pink purple orange) I have lots of extras so if you need anything, lemme know.

20210514_101239.jpg


20210514_101334.jpg
 
I got a fair bit of wiring I bought and a couple harnesses(1 is a 68 cuda) as I redo our 67 dash harness. Some wiring is the odd colored stuff(pink purple orange) I have lots of extras so if you need anything, lemme know.

View attachment 1715737225

View attachment 1715737226
Nice Steve. I love that your keeping everything original color.. the future owner of your cars are really gonna appreciate that.
Thanks.
 
Bringing up an old thread since it is kind of what I am asking about. I was wondering if anyone has tried to remove the fusible link connector from out of this connector and not damaging the connector or the plastic plug? As you can see in the pictures, both the fusible link wire & the other 10 gauge power wire feed have what looks like extra rubber/insulation going into the plastic connector.
I am looking to pull them both out of the plastic connector without damaging the wire or the terminal end so I can use the wire in a different plastic connector
Thank You!

image000000 - 2022-07-04T064947.846.jpg


image000000 - 2022-07-04T065016.796.jpg


image000000 - 2022-07-04T065044.046.jpg
 
Bringing up an old thread since it is kind of what I am asking about. I was wondering if anyone has tried to remove the fusible link connector from out of this connector and not damaging the connector or the plastic plug? As you can see in the pictures, both the fusible link wire & the other 10 gauge power wire feed have what looks like extra rubber/insulation going into the plastic connector.
I am looking to pull them both out of the plastic connector without damaging the wire or the terminal end so I can use the wire in a different plastic connector
Thank You!

View attachment 1715951501

View attachment 1715951502

View attachment 1715951503
Yes, need a small thin flathead screw driver. There is a tab on one side of the side of the wire connector holding it into the plug. Have to go from the front side and gently push the tab
 
I am looking to pull them both out of the plastic connector without damaging the wire or the terminal end
upload_2020-4-12_10-56-36-png.png


and more here

the other 10 gauge power wire feed have what looks like extra rubber/insulation going into the plastic connector.
Critical terminals got the rubber seal. The downside is not as easy to disapate heat.
Not many 10 ga wires used besides battery to starter relay. Late models may have had 10 ga on the alternator output to main splice (R6). Special options excepted.
 
Looking to redo my engine harness for my 66 bcuda either from scratch myself or with a year one m&h harness with a few mods to not overheat and burn up the bulkhead connector. Any tips, tricks, sources for engine compartment connectors etc?

All input appreciated
 

Skip Year None, Van's Auto and others sell M&H.
Do a search there's a TON of info on wiring. I made dash harness for our 67 cuda.
Looking to redo my engine harness for my 66 bcuda either from scratch myself or with a year one m&h harness with a few mods to not overheat and burn up the bulkhead connector. Any tips, tricks, sources for engine compartment connectors etc?

All input appreciated
 
Add up all of the loads that will run at the same time. This wll be the maximum steady draw on the alternator when the engine is running. Then figure which if any besides ignition and alternator will be on at the same time as the battery is charging. Battery charging is a variable but a big one. Finally add up all of the loads that will run on battery (engine off). Then you can figure the wire sizes and the connectors for the main feeds. After that figure the indivudal circuits the same way. The factory wiring strategy is great in that it is simple and straightforward for running an engine and basic electrical needs for driving. It is not a strategy which will work well with additional electric loads.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom