Burn out issues

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19DART66 said:
I was at LVD this past weekend too. Track prep was not great, my one and only time trial my Dart, which has a Jerico with a Soft-Loc clutch cut a 1.625 60 ft. and it ran 11.0 at 123.5 that is a bad 60 ft. for my Dart. The Jerico has a 3.04 first 2.0 second 1.38 third 1.0 fourth and 4.30 in the Dana, 9x28 M/T, Cal-Trac rear suspension( with the Cal-Trac bars adjusted by my son with me in the driver's seat the car never kicks sideways on the burn out, when I first put the Cal-Trac's on and I adjusted them with nobody in the car it would always slide to the right). First round I took one round of clutch out for a softer hit (thought it was going to be a time trial) dialed in and 11 flat. Dart went a 1.502 60 ft. 6.867 1/8, by this time I had about 3 car lengths on the car I gave a .47 second head start to, I let off at the 1000 ft. and and let him come up alongside. Just before the stripe I hit the brakes hard, he hit his harder, I went a 10.978 at 107.2 on a 11.0 dial, he did a 11.535 at 104.5 on a 11.47 dial, I went home, but still had a good day.
66Valiant528 what is your first gear ratio, with those 60 ft. times, it sounds like not enough first gear and to much clutch and you are bogging the engine, or you are spinning the tires real bad.
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Last time I adjusted the cal tracs there was a friend sitting in the car for me. Engine is not bogging ,tires spinning. Dana 60 430 30x10.5x15 slicks I'll have to check the trans ratio but I told them that was my setup at Lenco. I'd kill for a 1.5 60 foot time! I will check. But like I said first things first. Do a proper burn out. And thanks.
 
BTW both my runs were in the right lane and my 2nd run had a 2.1 60 foot time. 11.5 at 131.5
 
19DART66 said:
furrystump, talk about bad track prep, you guys in the Fast class looked like you were racing on a gravel road. Did any of you get any traction?
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No, it spun every run. I had to put weight in the car which I NEVER do. Made eliminations interesting, I can pedal the car pretty quick and it usually sticks after I pedal it once. Now with the low 1st gear set and having to pedal, the 1-2 shift happens FAST which does me no favors down track. I beat the Bill’s green GTX 440 six pack car first round who has cleaned my clock for years, but he was coming off running NPK 7.0 index with a 10.5 slick. Tough switching back to the little tire, add no grip and it has a new motor that is being difficult. They’ll get it sorted and then I will REALLY have to steal wins from him! Lost to Brian in the second round in his butterscotch small block duster. His 10.99 to my 11.99. Traction was an issue, I’m sure LVD will get it sorted. On to Empire on 6/24-6/25.
 
So I checked the placement of the rear axle. Plumb Bob in 4 places. Two at the front at strut rods and found the center of the K frame. Mark on the floor. Two plumb Bob marks off the rear shock stud. Measure......man pretty square!

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So I'm thinking there maybe some binding. I'm going to pull the Calvert bars and make sure the front pivot rotates freely on both sides and then check the rear shackles.
 
19DART66 said:
I was at LVD this past weekend too. Track prep was not great, my one and only time trial my Dart, which has a Jerico with a Soft-Loc clutch cut a 1.625 60 ft. and it ran 11.0 at 123.5 that is a bad 60 ft. for my Dart. The Jerico has a 3.04 first 2.0 second 1.38 third 1.0 fourth and 4.30 in the Dana, 9x28 M/T, Cal-Trac rear suspension( with the Cal-Trac bars adjusted by my son with me in the driver's seat the car never kicks sideways on the burn out, when I first put the Cal-Trac's on and I adjusted them with nobody in the car it would always slide to the right). First round I took one round of clutch out for a softer hit (thought it was going to be a time trial) dialed in and 11 flat. Dart went a 1.502 60 ft. 6.867 1/8, by this time I had about 3 car lengths on the car I gave a .47 second head start to, I let off at the 1000 ft. and and let him come up alongside. Just before the stripe I hit the brakes hard, he hit his harder, I went a 10.978 at 107.2 on a 11.0 dial, he did a 11.535 at 104.5 on a 11.47 dial, I went home, but still had a good day.
66Valiant528 what is your first gear ratio, with those 60 ft. times, it sounds like not enough first gear and to much clutch and you are bogging the engine, or you are spinning the tires real bad.
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I'd like to ask you about your shock settings but your inbox is full.
 
Spoke to Caltracs today. They said if the car goes straight down the track its not a bar thing. Viking shocks wants me to send them videos so that's the next step, after I verify nothing is binding in the rear.
 
66Valiant528, My Son and I switch out 3 things in my rear suspension since last September and we are still adjusting to get a handle on it. The first thing we changed were the front halves of the Cal-Trac leaf springs. ( after to many years of 5000 rpm clutch drops, they folded over and arched the opposite way) Then we switched out the rear shocks for D.A. Vikings from the 5 way adjustable Ranchos that came with my Cal-Tracs 20 years ago. So my Son and I decided that since we made those changes we might as well put sliders on the rear of the springs too. The shocks on Sunday were set to 9 clicks rebound, 4 clicks compression on back and front QA1 were set to zero . The Dart always hit the tires hard but now it is crushing the side walls and then compresses and rebounds and tried to run over the tires, then as it climbs up on the tires the front end comes up and down the track it goes and still managed a 1.502 60' on a so/so track. Next timeout we are going to try 1 or 2 clicks more on the compression and/or 1 or 2 more pounds of air in the stiff sidewall 9-28 M/T slicks. If that does not control the hit we will try lowering the two step RPM and/or dropping the bar on the Cal-Tracs from the top to the bottom hole on the front spring eye to soften the hit.
 
19DART66 said:
66Valiant528, My Son and I switch out 3 things in my rear suspension since last September and we are still adjusting to get a handle on it. The first thing we changed were the front halves of the Cal-Trac leaf springs. ( after to many years of 5000 rpm clutch drops, they folded over and arched the opposite way) Then we switched out the rear shocks for D.A. Vikings from the 5 way adjustable Ranchos that came with my Cal-Tracs 20 years ago. So my Son and I decided that since we made those changes we might as well put sliders on the rear of the springs too. The shocks on Sunday were set to 9 clicks rebound, 4 clicks compression on back and front QA1 were set to zero . The Dart always hit the tires hard but now it is crushing the side walls and then compresses and rebounds and tried to run over the tires, then as it climbs up on the tires the front end comes up and down the track it goes and still managed a 1.502 60' on a so/so track. Next timeout we are going to try 1 or 2 clicks more on the compression and/or 1 or 2 more pounds of air in the stiff sidewall 9-28 M/T slicks. If that does not control the hit we will try lowering the two step RPM and/or dropping the bar on the Cal-Tracs from the top to the bottom hole on the front spring eye to soften the hit.
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Wow great info thanks for sharing. I ran 9 and 9 on the rears and spun
 
Yes but you have a lot more power than I have and the track prep was not great. I think I am carrying more sprung weight than you too, which helps me out some with traction. Dart weights just over 3600 lbs with me in it, I am around 220, car is around 3400 lbs full interior, full exhaust, DOM rollbar, narrowed Dana 60 out of a 3/4 ton Dodge truck, all steel and full glass street car.
 
My car is a pig. 3400 with me in it and nose heavy. 4 bolt megablock browell bell and Lenco ST1200 . Ya maybe I have more hp but 1 more than I can put down is too much!
 
Wow, didn't mean to underestimate your car, but I was thinking around 3000 to 3100 lbs since the Valiant were shorter and lighter than the Darts in these years. But I see from your description where the weight came from. It's funny when I bought my Dart I kept hearing( most likely like you too) that these early A weighed less than 2800 lbs, my 66 weighed between 3150 and 3200 with a 273 four barrel, 904, 8 3/4 rear. The same as my stripped down 80 Mirada with a W2 small block (I took around 700 lbs out of that) that the car the Dart replaced for a more street friendly car.
It took a little while to get back to you, the power went out again for about the 8th time over the last 2 or 3 weeks, since that dimwit governor signed a bill to get rid of all fossil fuel by 2030 in this vampire state. they can't keep the lights on now what are they going to do in 2030 Fxxxxxg idiots. SORRY FOR THE RANT
 
A friend of mine tells me that if Boston actually went all electric cars/transportation the grid isn't capable of handling that! Rolling blackouts ....yup Fin idiots

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19DART66 said:
66Valiant528, My Son and I switch out 3 things in my rear suspension since last September and we are still adjusting to get a handle on it. The first thing we changed were the front halves of the Cal-Trac leaf springs. ( after to many years of 5000 rpm clutch drops, they folded over and arched the opposite way) Then we switched out the rear shocks for D.A. Vikings from the 5 way adjustable Ranchos that came with my Cal-Tracs 20 years ago. So my Son and I decided that since we made those changes we might as well put sliders on the rear of the springs too. The shocks on Sunday were set to 9 clicks rebound, 4 clicks compression on back and front QA1 were set to zero . The Dart always hit the tires hard but now it is crushing the side walls and then compresses and rebounds and tried to run over the tires, then as it climbs up on the tires the front end comes up and down the track it goes and still managed a 1.502 60' on a so/so track. Next timeout we are going to try 1 or 2 clicks more on the compression and/or 1 or 2 more pounds of air in the stiff sidewall 9-28 M/T slicks. If that does not control the hit we will try lowering the two step RPM and/or dropping the bar on the Cal-Tracs from the top to the bottom hole on the front spring eye to soften the hit.
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Tighten up the extension on the front shocks too.
 
So Viking got back to me and they feel I should increase rear tire pressure (already at 18 psi) and address rebound to both front and rear shocks. And they think the front may be topping out. Very little suspension travel here. Look at slowed down rear launch. This is with a DA at 9 and 9.

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What's that 2 or 3 inches? Shocks are at 19.25 at rest and have an extended length of 24.75. But mopar rear shocks are at an angle.....I will go ja k it up and see how much actual lift before they top out.
 
66Valiant528 said:
How can I stop my car from fishtailing to the right every time I do my burnout? It has happened on every Mopar I have raced, which is 4, 68 Roadrunner, 71 Dart 360, 73 Duster 360 and now my Calvert Caltrac rear suspension 66 Valiant. Can't download videos.....sorry low tech....wtf. Line locks and front disc on all these cars.
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I had same problem with my last car except to the left. I accidentally found that if I pumped the brakes a few times and used some real leg muscle on the brake, before applying line lock, the car would stay put and not fishtail. I passed that on to the new owner and he’s doing it the same way.
I would say one front brake is grabbing more than the other. Bleed brakes and check caliper slides/pins.

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I usually pump the brakes up as hard as possible before I engage the line lock. I have been looking for a place to 4 wheel weigh my car. I understand that if I drop the drivers side front torsion bar it'll pull a little weight off the right rear. I have RMS strut rods and have aligned the front several times to get high speed stability at 133 mph so I am a bit leary of messing with it as the car is good at speed now. If scaling ot shows a big difference I'd probably align it again after messing with the bars. I've got the front dropped about as far as I can to maintain 3 inches of clearance as required so that the oil pan,and skid plate dont trip the beam .
 
66Valiant528 said:
I usually pump the brakes up as hard as possible before I engage the line lock. I have been looking for a place to 4 wheel weigh my car. I understand that if I drop the drivers side front torsion bar it'll pull a little weight off the right rear. I have RMS strut rods and have aligned the front several times to get high speed stability at 133 mph so I am a bit leary of messing with it as the car is good at speed now.
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I didnt read all these posts , if not the front brakes , your left wheel is biting more than the right one and shoving the car to the right ----------the right rear always tries to lift , the reason for more or stiffer leaves in s/stock springs ----------
should be able to adjust out w/ caltracs , unless one of you right spring leaves is weak.
 
famous bob said:
I didnt read all these posts , if not the front brakes , your left wheel is biting more than the right one and shoving the car to the right ----------the right rear always tries to lift , the reason for more or stiffer leaves in s/stock springs ----------
should be able to adjust out w/ caltracs , unless one of you right spring leaves is weak.
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Thanks Bob but have split mono leaf set up from Calvert
 
I was attempting a test and tune Saturday. I was going to try Vikings recommended shock settings. Double check my bar adjustment. Viking suggested my shocks were topping out.....I have extensions for the rear may try to get some bayonet extensions for the front. I really doubt that though but it won't hurt to try. And no I haven't touched a thing yet but I have to get my 60 foot times consistent so it's happening. I did verify the rear axle was square in the car though.
 
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Pump it and then push that pedal like your panic stopping and apply line lock
 
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