Calling electric gurus, help!

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Ok, another update, I applied 12 v to purple wire mentioned above that I think is a input, I hooked up black with blue trace and black with yellow trace to one side front/ rear lites and did the same for the yellow and blue wires for the other side, I grounded the lights and tested, all works good left side comes on when activated and right side comes on when activated, and very bright, BUT if I introduce a flasher to the purple input wire they do not flash and the lights go dim, used a heavy duty two prong flasher, new, and tried a two prong specially designed for LED that has a separate ground wire on it, but same result, any ideas? I'm close
 
One problem with flashers is -------------using them with LED's
 
Ok, another new and interesting discovery I just went back to this for a bit ( need to take a break now and then to give my brain a break, lol ) and with this wires hooked up as mentioned above, with no flasher they work perfectly but dont flash, if I hook up the flasher then there dim and dont flash BUT IF I touch the probe of my test light to the purple power supply wire, ( I was testing to see if the light was bright at that juncture) then the lights are bright and flash perfect, when I remove the probe they go dim, this has got to be a ground issue, what am I missing? Btw, none of the wires in the bundle at the column are grounded, should one be? There is a black one but I think I had already tried grounding that one with no change. Thanks for your help here .
 
Best way is if you know the year/ make/ model the column came out of then go find that documentation.

Otherwise make a truth table

Is the hazard switch integrated into the switch? If so make a truth table, take a continuity checker and go to work

What will be inputs:

1.....Switched brake power. This comes from the brake light switch and goes into the TS switch
2.....Turn signal flasher power. this comes from the TS flasher and goes into the TS switch
3......Hazard flasher power. This comes from the hazard flasher and goes into the TS switch

Outputs.
Best way is if you know the year/ make/ model the column came out of then go find that documentation.

Otherwise make a truth table

Is the hazard switch integrated into the switch? If so make a truth table, take a continuity checker and go to work

What will be inputs:

1.....Switched brake power. This comes from the brake light switch and goes into the TS switch
2.....Turn signal flasher power. this comes from the TS flasher and goes into the TS switch
3......Hazard flasher power. This comes from the hazard flasher and goes into the TS switch

Outputs.

A......Front left turn
B......Front right turn
C......Rear left turn (and brake)
D......Rear right turn (and brake)

The above is true IF IF the car had integrated stop / turn and not the separate rear dedicated turn signals and rear dedicated stop signals

"Less wires will be present"

So Now start the process of elimination

With the switch centered, the switch will pass

Brake light switch to left rear and right rear. So with switch centered find out what three wires show continuity. Temporarily mark them.

"I believe" that in hazard, ALL wires will be continuous to ALL OTHER wires EXCEPT for the turn signal flasher. "I think" If so, this means you can put the thing in hazard, and figure out which wire is not continuous, and that one is your EDIT turn flasher wire

Now turn the switch to "left". What will now be continuous is two different sets

The brake light wire will pass power to the right rear lamp

The flasher wire will connect to left front and left rear

Now turn switch to the "right" and the opposite side will be continuous from the above situation

By paying attention to what you "have" you can eliminate wires one by one.

For example, both left and right switch will only have one group of 4 wires which generate continuity to three of them........flasher to left front and left rear, and flasher to right front and right rear

When you get those groups sorted, you can tell which is rear and front, because the fronts will never have power to the brake line.



It "might be" that one way to do this is to randomly mark the wires with tape tags simply 1-2-3-4 etc before you start, and just write down what is continuous to what as you go.
Righteous help right there!
A......Front left turn
B......Front right turn
C......Rear left turn (and brake)
D......Rear right turn (and brake)

The above is true IF IF the car had integrated stop / turn and not the separate rear dedicated turn signals and rear dedicated stop signals

"Less wires will be present"

So Now start the process of elimination

With the switch centered, the switch will pass

Brake light switch to left rear and right rear. So with switch centered find out what three wires show continuity. Temporarily mark them.

"I believe" that in hazard, ALL wires will be continuous to ALL OTHER wires EXCEPT for the turn signal flasher. "I think" If so, this means you can put the thing in hazard, and figure out which wire is not continuous, and that one is your EDIT turn flasher wire

Now turn the switch to "left". What will now be continuous is two different sets

The brake light wire will pass power to the right rear lamp

The flasher wire will connect to left front and left rear

Now turn switch to the "right" and the opposite side will be continuous from the above situation

By paying attention to what you "have" you can eliminate wires one by one.

For example, both left and right switch will only have one group of 4 wires which generate continuity to three of them........flasher to left front and left rear, and flasher to right front and right rear

When you get those groups sorted, you can tell which is rear and front, because the fronts will never have power to the brake line.



It "might be" that one way to do this is to randomly mark the wires with tape tags simply 1-2-3-4 etc before you start, and just write down what is continuous to what as you go.
 
I did try to build a truth table, that is how I figured out the wires that I did,
And that was excellent advice, I did not ignore it, but I could only figure so much out maybe because there currently isnt a brake lite switch wire there? I can not look up the factory service manual because I dont know what year and modle it came from, any way I'm close, I think I'm missing a ground.
 
I did try to build a truth table, that is how I figured out the wires that I did,
And that was excellent advice, I did not ignore it, but I could only figure so much out maybe because there currently isnt a brake lite switch wire there? I can not look up the factory service manual because I dont know what year and modle it came from, any way I'm close, I think I'm missing a ground.

Nothing in the TS switch needs a ground. So far as a diagram, "guess" on the year best you can and look from there. They likely kept same wire colors for some years. The "old" cars used the same color codes for decades. I did a bit of search and came up with nothing meaningful
 
I've looked through many books I have, I even found a old 73 chrysler body service manual on line and bought it, I can not find any diagram that shows a violet wire in the column but I'm sure that is the supply wire. Another discovery I made is that when I hook up the heavy duty non led flasher the lights come on strong but dont flash, when I hook up the led flasher, the lights are dim, but the new discovery is I supply 12v to one side of the flasher but only 6 volts come off the other side unless as I said before I probe that wire with my tester then it gets 12v, I'm beginning to think my led flasher is NFG, think I'll get another and try again.
 
reads like your test lamp is just enough additional draw on or through the flasher module to make it function. A couple of 194 bulbs at indicators in inst' panel? LEDs there also?
 
The dash is origanal to 56, although the bulbs are new they are not 194, it's been a while since I had it out but I think they were a small push and twist however at this time as I am just trying to get this to function, so they are not hooked up in the circuit, the only lights currently hooked in the circuit are the front Led and rear Led however I do have the front LED signals tied in to operate the halos around the LED headlamps that is probably worth mentioning but the way the halos work is they are two function, one is a white halo that is the DRL and MUST be hooked up to power before the second function can work. The second function is the white halo turns amber and flashes when the signal is applied, , currently I do not have the headlamp circuit hooked to power as I wanted it out of the picture to test the signal's . Maybe the fact the signals are hooked to the halos but the head lamp circuit is not complete could be hampering things? I doubt it but I guess I could try hooking the halos up while testing the signals, but I think I will wait until the new flasher arrives. Thanks for keeping your thinking cap on.
 
The other thing, here, that I hate to have to mention, is that there might be actually something wrong with this switch. IN other words, feeling it out, blind, it might not make sense because some circuit or other is not working or is intermittent.
 
Geez I hope not, good point I did have the signal switch out of this a couple years ago when I first was digging into this and it looked ok but I didnt ohm it out, good point.
 
FIXED! Ok thanks for all the help guys, as suspected my last ( well probably not last gremlin ) was the flasher, the Amazon one arrived yesterday and I plugged it in today, and the front and back signals flash bright, I just need to hook up the rear brake lights however as mentioned I suspect I might see some back feed through the wires and possibly light up my front signals when brakes applied, if that happens I have a bunch of water resistant marine diodes I'll just but two in line and that should take care of any feed back, I'm waiting for a custom after market brake light switch which got delayed on Amazon, I'll hook those up later.
 
WOW great. I bet you learned a lot, LOL First time I did this was when I put a Chevelle column into a 62 FJ-40 Landcruiser with a Mopar 340 swapped in. The Chev ignition switch doesn't have the IGN2 circuit, so I had to deal with that.
 
Yeah I did, but honestly I've been dreading the whole signal wiring thing for a while, thr peices of this whole project are finally coming together, the next electric issue will be my 6 way power heated seats I have for it but there mostly figured out already I already have the slide/ tilt part sorted just working on the heat, but honestly I probably wont even use that feature much other than a cool fall morning as this old girl will never see another winter, shes got a warm garage to sleep in now, lol
 

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