cam and carb question

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my_1990woody

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just picked up a 318ci motor for my 1969 dodge dart and it needs a cam and intake and carb. I dont have much experiance with this sorta thing. I dont want to make lotsa power just a little extra to spin the tires and such, what would you guys recomend for a cam and intake manifold and carb.

thanks for the advice matt
 
It would wake up some with a stock 340 cam profile, MP replacement, or any aftermarket cam that is designed for street/RV/Towing sort of set up. Intake and carb could be stock 2 bbl, but I'd throw on a 4bbl and a Performer intake or something similar. You'll get lots of responses on this I think!
 
we are going to need more info....is the motor stock,in good con..or are you going to rebuild....is the dart auto or man,what rearend do you have 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 ,what gears,is it a posie or peg leg....the way i would do it is to see what i al ready have.write it down make a list,so you can come up with a plan....ive seen so many people put a big cam,big carb,headers and forget about gears,convertor and ignition...then when they have it all together, there un happy and blame the motor..spend some time looking at the dart and see what you have...write it all down than try to come up with a plan about how much power you want to make and how much you want to spend....theres good people here.and when you have your info and plan down.i am shure you will get alot of great advice......hope this helps kenn
 
without knowing anything else..i would use an eddy 1406 600 carb..an eddy performer rpm intake, and a comp xe256h cam.
 
Stock 318? What year? Keep it mild.

Carb: Edelbrock 1406

Intake: Edelbrock Performer

Cam: Comp XE256

Headers and 2 1/4" dual exhaust.

Anything more than the above and you'll need to start making more upgrades
 
I personally don't understand why so many people recommend the 340 cam. I'm sure it works well performance-wise, but a modern split-pattern fast-ramp high-lift low-duration (wow, lots of hyphens) cam would give a broader torque curve and better gas mileage. Something like the COMP C130 Chief mentioned or the Lunati Voodoo 250/256 or 256/262 (which is going into my 318 in a little while).
 
C130 Chief said:
Stock 318? What year? Keep it mild.

Carb: Edelbrock 1406

Intake: Edelbrock Performer

Cam: Comp XE256

Headers and 2 1/4" dual exhaust.

Anything more than the above and you'll need to start making more upgrades
Click to expand...
i agree, except he should go 2 1/2" exhaust.. just in case he wants to go to a larger engine later.
shouldn't hurt anything.
cheers
 
360Z28 said:
i agree, except he should go 2 1/2" exhaust.. just in case he wants to go to a larger engine later.
shouldn't hurt anything.
cheers
Click to expand...

I second that. The 2-1/4 is fine but the 2-1/2 woill not hurt really.

I'm running something similar. Crane cam; 272/284 (@ .050= 216/228) .454/.480 lift on a 112 C-line. Idles very stock like with a power band from *I think * it was 1300 - 5400 rpm.

600 carb, LD4B intake, hooker headers, 2-1/2 exhaust, electric fan, orange box ignition, open air cleaner. 904/3.21 gears in a 8-1/4.

Untuned, sort of, it went 15.15 @ 98 mph. Spun tires out of the hole. Theres 14's in it. OH, engine; stock otherwise 1978, 318, low, er, dead compresion engine with mega mega miles.
(Over 300,000 when the OE owner stoped recording in 1989)
 
I'm with the consensus here. I went with 2¼ pipes because I have no desire to seriously race this car. I have a Performer, 625 AFB, small port heads (302), and a .441 lift cam.

2 Adds:

1. Use a fiber intake gasket with the aluminum intake. The steel ones don't seal worth a @%#* for me.

2. Another option would be to use a 66-67 273 4-bbl intake. It was made for the small port heads. Unlike the Performer, it is a single plane manifold. You'll find 'em at swap meets and maybe e-bay. The early 273s used a different angle on the intake bolts that does not match up well with the LA318.
 
thanks for the info. it is a stock 318ci with an auto trans and a posi just want a nice driving street car that will wake up when i hit the go juice pedal. i am making this car for the girlfreind and has to be good o drive but have some power when i drive it.


thanks alot
 
WOW! Your a good fella gettin a MoPar for the girlfreind. If you take my combo a step further and mill the heads with minor work to it, (Seat work, larger exhaust valve @ 1.60,) it'll run mid to low 14's without an issue, no sweat.

The cam is very mello on idle once it is warmed up. Stock like. To have a chop chop in your idle, a 110 centerline or lower will do it.
 
just picked up a 4bbl carb its a 600cfm eblbrock, i got it for free from my bro (best price) now i just need a cam and lifters. also was wondering if i could use the stock push rods from my 273ci that i pulled out and rockers or am i going to have to buy new.
 
I need some info on this, is the;

273 a mechanical rocker? Does the 273 have solid lifters?

What cam do you want to use in the 318? Hyd. or Mech.?
 
Yes, a mechanical cam has a ball end on the adjusters, the pushrods have a cup up top and are shorter. IF you use these mechanical rockers from the 273, you'll need the stock 273 pushrods to go with them and a mechanical cam as well.

Are the adjusters free and easy to turn?

A mechanical cam and the 273 rocker gear & pushrods are the cheapest way to go. And the rockers adjusters must be free to move and adjust.

IF you go with a Hyd. cam, the new pushrods will be needed. And then theres a choice;

Cup end pushrods for a Hyd. cam and mech. rockers, like the 340 T/A engines. There not the same length as the pushrods you have now.

or

Hyd. rockers. Which can be purchased new from MoPar @ approx. $80, and new pushrods. For use with the Hyd, cam.
 
Hyd. lifters use engine oil to pump up the insides of the lifter.

Mechanical lifters are solid, no give. There a certain height and that's it.
The Hyd. lifters at start up and low RPM compress and do make the cam seem smaller until more RPM and oil are introduced under higher/greater pressure to pump up the lifter.

When the lifter pumps up, it becomes more like the solid lifter giving full lift and duration as the cam, or close to it.
The idea of the Hyd. lifter is vari the size of the cam making it like a smaller cam that grows to a bigger cam as the RPM goes up. This makes it easier to start the engine, give longer service life and quiter operation.

Because the lifter rises and falls, it gives the cam/engine a more flexable operating RPM range. A broader/larger range. Mostly in the low RPM range. Which is good since a larger cam can be installed and still have good to great low RPM speed, power, vacuum, idle and more torque.
 
The 318 is allready set up for this stock. If you want to run a Hyd. cam, then just get the cam, lifter and spring package and go.

Since your not sure about the cam size or anything else about it, what is it the GF wants/expects or your willing to give her. I do remember reading that you wanted everyday drivabilty and decent power.

Would high 14's be it or low 14's be better?
Headers?
Gear ratio?
Stock converter?
 
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