A woodruff key. As mentioned,just move it to the new cam.
Cam shaft swap and break in 360
- Thread starter Slantsix64
- Start date
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It is called a Woodruff key or half moon key. You tap it out of the groove and tap it in the new cam. It is a very basic component of shaft/gear drive.
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
haha wow i feel like a idiot but i got finished up. for some reason i felt like that would of been mounted on it but thanks!
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
I would do the Hughes Engines lifter "thunk" test & spin the cam/lifters dry with your speed wrench to see if the lifters rotate (2 checks). On preoiling if you set the dampener at 90 BTDC #1 compression you can preoil the pass bank (there should be a partial slit, 3 of em in addition to the full TDC slit) or cut a strip of paper 5.694". then turn dampener to 20 deg ATDC #6 compression & preoil the drivers bank then you can back up the dampener a bit to 15 BTDC #6 firing then install the dist & get the magnet dead even with the tooth that places the rotor under or near under the cap terminal with the #6 plug wire and the can on the pass side with room to be turned either way & I would clock the intergear so the rotor is pointing rearward & slightly toward the driver side (lets the plug wires nestle the neatest with the shortest lengths possible, not a dealbreaker just my OCD). I would leave the intake off till the very last & goop the cam then install the intake. Cam failures are epidemic & I would go the extra mile on a cam breakin & you might read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com. for some excellent ring breakin info & it is a motorcycle site but their take is you get ONE shot to get a excellent ring breakin as opposed to a good ring breakin that will give good leakdown numbers. their take: gun it repeatedly.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
That's it, Sounds like you haveing a bad day there brother. Well, I sure hope you found SOME of my info useful (I did!)
Not here......have used dozens of Flat tappet cams...only one that was 10 yrs old went flat ...probably cause I put new lifters on it....
Just got to know what you are doing....your info usefull...LoL
Just got to know what you are doing....your info usefull...LoL
I have seen more cams go flat in The Last 5 Years than I saw in the whole 50 years before that.
I guess...some people know what they are doing and some dont...i start them with the dual springs ......I never take the inner spring out..
call your local speed shop or machine shop...they will to sell you a roller cam...LOL
call your local speed shop or machine shop...they will to sell you a roller cam...LOL
Actually I don't think it had anything to do with who put the cams in the motor. What it probably had to do with was people running the wrong oil in the motors.
Been using 10w-30 Mobile dino oil from Walmart with a 4 oz bottle of ZddPlus from ebay...for break in and use...No special Boutique Blend or break in oil.....cam is coated with moly lube...the engine is set to fire....no cranky. cranky....no junk leaky carb.....no I dont know if I will get a spark....it is set to fire...fix your **** before you go to start the engine ....
Do not put moly lube or paste on the body of the lifter, use only oil..the lifter has to be able to spin....the paste is too stiff and COULD prevent the lifter from spinning....
Sorry...sometimes I get a little excited.....
Sorry...sometimes I get a little excited.....
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Guys have been screwing up cams forever LOL. What doesn't get mentioned (by the manufacturers or anyone) is the fact that cam lifts have been going up a lot in the last 20 or so years, and more fast cam ramps have been used than ever before. Those 2 things pushed the dynamic lifter-to-lobe pressures of flat tappets to the edge, and it did not take much of a change in the ZDDP levels to make them start failing more easily.
Keep your lifts to reasonable levels, don't go with the fastest ramps, keep the rev's down so that springs don't have to be so darned heavy, and voila..... chronic cam problems go away.
Keep your lifts to reasonable levels, don't go with the fastest ramps, keep the rev's down so that springs don't have to be so darned heavy, and voila..... chronic cam problems go away.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Or learn how to start one. It isn't that hard. But...it's still a matter of fixing decades of stupid that won't go away.
Such as...time it at zero. They don't run at zero. I'd rather see 50 total than 30.
I also don't know how you can get an engine hit on break in. It doesn't take much cooling to cool maybe, MAYBE 75-100 unloaded HP.
Also, not verifying firing order. Seen this almost every time with a non-standard firing order, even though the customer was told many times and given written instructions.
Carb malfunction.
Overuse of moly. Damn guys it doesn't take a can of that **** to lube a cam. A thin covering on the lobe and the same on the bottom of the lifter. Done.
Poor rocker geometry.
Junk lifters. Verify every lifter.
If you make them start and the lifters ain't junk it's almost impossible to kill a cam.
Also, cheap oil is cheap oil.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Is lucas break in oil descent oil to use? Can this oil stay in engine for a while after cam break in or does it need to be drained soon after break in? 1st and only cam i broke in was back in 99 or so. I used 30wt pennzoil back then it was still good but i added a bottle of STP. Seemed to do well. I also recall using Torco break lube on cam which is a 280 mopar cam still in 360 today!!
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
is this not using offbrand lifters or verifying that the plunger moves down freely or something else I should check? I have some new .001" OS OE Mopar lifters & I was thinking I should take em apart & clean/lightly oil the innards. what would you suggest.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I'm talking about the radius on the bottom of the lifter. I've found some that were wedge cut and some didn't have enough taper. The way I check them is in a lathe with a verified Chuck that has minimal run out. The use a dial indicator across the face of the lifter. It better have .002 or a bit more in 4 places. If it doesn't they will likely fail.
If you have a camshaft and lifters that only have a few hundred miles on them is there a way you can take those lifters and put them on a different camshaft and not wipe out the lobes?
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Personally I wouldn't do it. All that work removing installing a cam and have a possibility of wiping a lobe.... I don't like the odds.
The lifters have "mated" to each lobe of the old cam. Buy new lifters and do a normal cam break in procedure.
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