CAP Auto Products

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swingin

swingin

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Anyone tried out their tubular upper control arms? They make them for '67-'72 a bods with the smaller ball joints. Or would it be better to go with the Hotchkis deals.
 
check out my thread from about two months ago.on page two- i feel lucky tonight.I have stockers back on and feel much better.Just my two cents!!
 
There are other companies that sell tubular arms that are gussetted. That would be a safer choice in my opinion.
 
sorry to waste ur time megajoltman. i come thru here once or twice a month, if u don't like the question, dont read. demonjohn, wow that's a kick in the teeth! fortunately no one got hurt eh? Having seen ur bad luck, looks like ill call hotchkis.........
 
I would stay away from CAP based on the negative threads just posted here. Several members have had catastophic failures with CAP products. Best part is CAP never took responsibility for any of the failures. It's your life.........Do as you wish.
 
8 1/4 and 8 3/4 and DANA rears break,but people continue to use them.I,m just saying,givin the application anything will have its faults.
 
I'm using a CAP tubular k-frame and upper contol arms.

No problems for me at 130 mph or from landing after pulling the front wheels.
 
swingin said:
sorry to waste ur time megajoltman. i come thru here once or twice a month, if u don't like the question, dont read. demonjohn, wow that's a kick in the teeth! fortunately no one got hurt eh? Having seen ur bad luck, looks like ill call hotchkis.........
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Not wasting my time but it usually ends up into a big brawl when CAP questions come up:toothy10:

And if I wanted to be an @ss I would just mention use the search button:thebirdm:
 
CHeck out all the brands......CAP is at the bottom of the list.....RMS stuff is one of the best out there.it

Hit the nail on the head Megajoltman....lol

Hotchkis is just overpriced. Even for Chevys.
 
Factory arms last 30-40 years with no problems............No need to reinvent the wheel, most tubular a-arms are just designed to release cash from your back pocket. We use tube uppers on our oval track car, they cost about 40.00, but our old car used 40 year old stockers, no problems.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Factory arms last 30-40 years with no problems............No need to reinvent the wheel, most tubular a-arms are just designed to release cash from your back pocket. We use tube uppers on our oval track car, they cost about 40.00, but our old car used 40 year old stockers, no problems.
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I was very up set when I was fliping through a www.speedwaymotors.com catalog and they have tube A arms for less than 50 bucks. Whats up with that? Why do ones for are cars cost 300+? Me thinks we are getting ripped off!
 
Stay far away from that cap garbage.

Oh and they don't need a gusset. If they are welded properly.
 
Lil' bit more involved making uppers for a mopar than what speedway sell which are for chevy type of upper mounting system which they also sell rather inexpensively and they are strong as can be I have tested many of them the hard way and never had a weld break the rest of it looked like a pretzel but the welds and the tubing held up nicely
Burntorange70 said:
I was very up set when I was fliping through a www.speedwaymotors.com catalog and they have tube A arms for less than 50 bucks. Whats up with that? Why do ones for are cars cost 300+? Me thinks we are getting ripped off!
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I would not put cap parts on my car even if they were given to me. Too many incidents of failed welds and sloppy made parts out there. Cap = crap.
 
The only reason I'm looking into these new arms is because I am sick of killing the inside of my tires. The front end was rebuilt a few years ago and I've had multiple alignments done with no improvement. Otherwise I'd leave the stock ones alone. And the only reason I'm looking at CAP and Hotchkis is because they are the only mans that make a control arm that doesn't require me yanking the spindles and machining them for a larger ball joint. I'd prefer to not have different sizes of ball joints from top to bottom. So that's my boggle
 
Well, first you can buy screw in chrysler ball joints with differant pin sizes, so no need to ream out any holes. Second, If your stock arms are in good shape, bushings ect, and your tires are wearing on the inside, then your alingment is INCORRECT no matter how many places have done it. In some cases you may need offset upper controll arm bushings, that will help you get more positive caster. Trust me my street cars all have factory arms, NONE of them have tire wear problems. The only reason we use tube uppers on the circle track car is because they are cheaper than factory arms, a hard shot to the wheel bends a-arms, and we can just call up and order them. We do use the chevy style mounting plate, again dirt cheap.
 
swingin said:
The only reason I'm looking into these new arms is because I am sick of killing the inside of my tires. The front end was rebuilt a few years ago and I've had multiple alignments done with no improvement. Otherwise I'd leave the stock ones alone. And the only reason I'm looking at CAP and Hotchkis is because they are the only mans that make a control arm that doesn't require me yanking the spindles and machining them for a larger ball joint. I'd prefer to not have different sizes of ball joints from top to bottom. So that's my boggle
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I'm sorry, not to go off course, but what would changing the upper control arms have to do with the wearing of the inside of your tires? Most of the aftermarket arms add caster to your alignment. Caster is not a tire wearing angle. It usually takes a lot of camber to wear an edge of a tire. Improper toe is the main culprit of early tire death. What specs are all these alignment shops using? Is there perhaps a problem with another part causing your trouble?
 
Revhendo said:
I'm sorry, not to go off course, but what would changing the upper control arms have to do with the wearing of the inside of your tires? Most of the aftermarket arms add caster to your alignment. Caster is not a tire wearing angle. It usually takes a lot of camber to wear an edge of a tire. Improper toe is the main culprit of early tire death. What specs are all these alignment shops using? Is there perhaps a problem with another part causing your trouble?
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I understand that the ball joint is positioned further away from the mounting point on the car, fixing camber issues. Hey I'm just an electrican,not a front end specialist. How many times do I have to take the car in to get aligned before someone gets it right? As far as i know, there are no issues with the car, all parts in the front end were installed new (by myself) a couple of years ago.
 
swingin said:
I understand that the ball joint is positioned further away from the mounting point on the car, fixing camber issues. Hey I'm just an electrican,not a front end specialist. How many times do I have to take the car in to get aligned before someone gets it right? As far as i know, there are no issues with the car, all parts in the front end were installed new (by myself) a couple of years ago.
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If the problem is too much negative camber (-2 or so). Moog sells offset bushings that will correct that problem. If you're alignment specs are coming up good and you are still wearing tires, then you have something shifting around when you are driving. Do you get printouts of your alignments when they are done?
 
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