Captainkirk's Duster project
- Thread starter Captainkirk
- Start date
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
this thread is so old his avatar pic has faded 
that made you look, lol.
neil.
that made you look, lol.
neil.
Lolthis thread is so old his avatar pic has faded
that made you look, lol.
neil.
I'm glad you are taking my comments as intended, as entertainment,
I was even gonna recommend you rename your thread "blowin' smoke" ...but didn't want to get anyone's underwear in a wad.
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Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
And speaking of blowin' smoke...we all know where you blow smoke, right? And so, in keeping with the theme of the day, I yanked the 'rear end' out from under the car, leaned it up against the camper and went to work on it with the pressure washer. Did it work? Mmmmmm, yes and no. It did manage to take any flaky rust off, and nearly every speck of grease but it still has a nice, even coat of rust everywhere. I couldn't find my wire wheel to save my life, so looks like a trip to the hardware store is in order tomorrow for that and a can of rust converter, along with a quart of Rust-Oleum. I was surprised to see the brake lines on the diff appeared to be in fairly good condition...maybe I'll re-use them after all. But that's a decision for another day. Gotta forge ahead.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Hey Cap'n,
How about trying POR system on that diff? Of course once you get it cleaned up as much as you want.
How about trying POR system on that diff? Of course once you get it cleaned up as much as you want.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
if you want it 'nice' grind it as smooth as you can, then apply several coats of high build primer until it'll sand flat and smooth. then add the paint colour of your choice. i did a 'really' rusty pitted escort rear axle for one of the trade show displays for the rally parts company i worked for and often we were asked were the new axle cases available yet?
neil.
neil.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Joe, I'm actually REALLY happy with Rust-Oleum brush-on enamel using RO 'Rust Reformer' as a conversion coat/primer. The RR is supposed to chemically alter iron oxide to a neutral state and provides a rough surface for the brush-on enamel. I did the entire underside of the car and inside the trunk this way and it dried hard as a rock and tough as nails without the costs of POR+ shipping and the Ace hardware is a block from my house! Not knocking POR; I hear it's the best.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Looks like that's working well for you. POR is expensive and shipping isn't cheap for sure.
Keep on keeping on Captain
Keep on keeping on Captain
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Tanks a Lot, or Rust Never Sleeps.
Welp, my son (a new member here...Yay!) stopped by today to put our heads together and plan out this project. We crawled under the car and I showed him the progress and then we discussed the diff as the next bite of the elephant (How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time!) and looking at where the diff had to go, it suddenly dawned on me that the fuel tank would likely have to go in first...
Fuel tank...fuel tank...let's see. There must be one around here someplace. Oh yeah...there it is. I picked up the transmitter laying on top and saw the the corrosion on the working bits...we may have to replace that thing...and then I peered inside the tank using a flashlight.
A veritable sea of rust, with probably a cup of loose rust powder rolling around inside. Now, I've flushed and cleaned a few motorcycle tanks in my day, but never anything like this and never a sixteen gallon thing! Could it be done? Possibly. A couple quarts of muriatic acid would get most of it, but that's a lot of smelly, caustic and potentially hazardous work. Not to mention time-consuming! Plus, every tank I've done that way begins flash rusting immediately after you're done rinsing unless you pour oil in it and slosh it. So time to start parts shopping, unless someone has a foolproof method for doing this they can recommend.
Nuts.
Welp, my son (a new member here...Yay!) stopped by today to put our heads together and plan out this project. We crawled under the car and I showed him the progress and then we discussed the diff as the next bite of the elephant (How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time!) and looking at where the diff had to go, it suddenly dawned on me that the fuel tank would likely have to go in first...
Fuel tank...fuel tank...let's see. There must be one around here someplace. Oh yeah...there it is. I picked up the transmitter laying on top and saw the the corrosion on the working bits...we may have to replace that thing...and then I peered inside the tank using a flashlight.
A veritable sea of rust, with probably a cup of loose rust powder rolling around inside. Now, I've flushed and cleaned a few motorcycle tanks in my day, but never anything like this and never a sixteen gallon thing! Could it be done? Possibly. A couple quarts of muriatic acid would get most of it, but that's a lot of smelly, caustic and potentially hazardous work. Not to mention time-consuming! Plus, every tank I've done that way begins flash rusting immediately after you're done rinsing unless you pour oil in it and slosh it. So time to start parts shopping, unless someone has a foolproof method for doing this they can recommend.
Nuts.
This has the makings of a 45 year project.. it's already been 20 to get this far now we're pondering how and why a rear axle works and can we install said gastank with axle in place. Please take car completely apart and install all underbelly components then build top section things don't and can't fit together with other parts in the way.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
I'm quite aware of how the axle works. I just couldn't remember if I pulled the tank before or after the diff. That's the trouble with 20 year projects. Somebody else did the preceding work (a younger you) and they say the memory is the second thing to go. I can't remember the first thing.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Don't waste your time screwing with that old fuel tank Captain. Order a new one when you have everything else ready = ready to fire it up. Check the straps & j-bolts before you order tank and I think there's a rubber matt or something else that goes between the body and tank to prevent tank and body from rubbing. Oh, might as well get new fuel gauge with feed lines, securing ring and gasket too. Good to check sending unit works the gauge before installing in tank.
It just keeps going, right
It just keeps going, right
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Joe, do you recall if the tank can be installed with the diff in place, or does the tank need to go in first? Too many years, I don't remember at this point. I do know I dropped the tank after the rear axle was already out.
You can definitely install the tank with the diff in place!
Cley
Cley
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Progress. Slow, but sure.
I wheeled the diff out into the driveway after brief consideration of not wheeling it out into the driveway...there are many, many tasks that need doing singing their siren songs, and by the time I got to that point I had but a brief hour before sunset, but then I thought "What if @HemiDenny was watching me?" and fear overtook me.
I chucked up a brand-new wire wheel in the drill and started making red dust. Surprisingly, I got pretty far on the top side of the diff and springs, even getting all the b-nuts broken loose on the brake lines. Pulling the lines free from the retaining tabs showed just why you should always replace expendables, as the moment I pulled the lines free from the tabs it was evident from the pissing of brake fluid that they had rusted together. That could have been ugly somewhere down the line...no thanks!
Amazing what you can accomplish in an hour if you just shut up and get down to it.
I wheeled the diff out into the driveway after brief consideration of not wheeling it out into the driveway...there are many, many tasks that need doing singing their siren songs, and by the time I got to that point I had but a brief hour before sunset, but then I thought "What if @HemiDenny was watching me?" and fear overtook me.
I chucked up a brand-new wire wheel in the drill and started making red dust. Surprisingly, I got pretty far on the top side of the diff and springs, even getting all the b-nuts broken loose on the brake lines. Pulling the lines free from the retaining tabs showed just why you should always replace expendables, as the moment I pulled the lines free from the tabs it was evident from the pissing of brake fluid that they had rusted together. That could have been ugly somewhere down the line...no thanks!Amazing what you can accomplish in an hour if you just shut up and get down to it.
Very good grasshopper.....next I teach you to snatch pebble from hand.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
I knew you would!
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
I removed tank with diff in so I'd think the tank would go back in with diff installed.
BTW I saw you tried to star a conversation but my in box is full, sorry. And, I can't figure out how to clear the in box...
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Every night I've been squeezing an hour or so in after dinner. Not making a lot of headway this way, but it's one step closer to completion every day. Hoping to find a little extra time Friday night since I don't have to get up at the crack of dawn on Saturday. Lots of little bits off the diff getting removed and cleaned on the bench grinder wire wheel, then Rust Reformed.
I'll try to get some pix over the weekend.
Right now I'm fighting the rear spring bushings and shackles. They definitely do not want to come out and play.
I'll try to get some pix over the weekend.
Right now I'm fighting the rear spring bushings and shackles. They definitely do not want to come out and play.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
are you from australia captain? i noticed you referred to the rear axle as the 'diff' which is what they do.
neil.
neil.
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