Carb for my 360

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cudajim

cudajim

cudajim
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Grass Valley, Ca.
I have a stock 360 engine with the wrong carb on it at the moment. It's running HOT with a Champion 3 core radiator and I'm thinking I am running way too lean and/or perhaps too small cfm carb on it. So my question is how do I go about matching a carb to my engine. The engine has an Edelbrock performer 4bbl intake on it (don't know if that's good or bad for it either). In any case, I need to get steered in the right direction to get a working carb/intake combination. The car is a 67 Barracuda 360/904. I don't plan to race it, just mild street use.
 
If you are an Edelbrock fan, or considering one of their carbs, I found this on Jegs. [ame]http://www.jegs.com/pdfs/350carbchart.pdf[/ame]

It shows I have the completely wrong carb, too.
 
Give us a rundown on the engine spec wise and what is your initial and total timing.

What are you using for a fan and shroud?
 
For starters, you didn't mention what carb you have now.
The fan shroud & fan as in what kind are a good mention and question.
Do you have headers on the car?

Often overheating can not only be a carb issue but a timing issue. Also, a thermostat issue among other things.
 
flush the radiator good . I do have a used 650 d/f dp Holley vaccum secondairy"s I would give up for 175.00 shipped
 
I have a real nice little 630 CFM AVS I just rebuilt but now I am not going to use because I changed my plans if you are interested.
 
Sorry I didn't mention... the radiator is new, I also changed the thermostat 3 times just to be sure (also tried it with no thermostat). It does not overheat but it does run hot. No I don't have headers, just a stock exhaust, stock cam and everything else.
 
Now we're down to timing and what ever carb you have and its jetting.
 
When does it run hot and what EXACTLY is hot? There are some questions that have been asked with no answer.

195 is not hot...
 
OK....What is:
The carb now?
Fan and shroud?
Timing, initial and total?
Device used to determine "hot"?
And how hot is "hot"?
 
Hot is not measured but I do know when it's way too hot. It's not boiling over but it's close.
The 4bbl carb is stock from my 273 engine so it's probably not right.
I'm running a new 7 blade Mopar fan with a clutch, no shroud.
Don't know where timing is, I only have an old timing light but I have tried moving distributor with no effect.
 
cudajim said:
Hot is not measured but I do know when it's way too hot. It's not boiling over but it's close.
The 4bbl carb is stock from my 273 engine so it's probably not right.
I'm running a new 7 blade Mopar fan with a clutch, no shroud.
Don't know where timing is, I only have an old timing light but I have tried moving distributor with no effect.
Click to expand...

I would guess a stock 273 carb (~500cfm) would be a bit lean on a 360. I would try and borrow something a bit larger (600 to 750cfm) and try it. What do your plugs look like?
 
cudajim said:
Hot is not measured but I do know when it's way too hot. It's not boiling over but it's close.
The 4bbl carb is stock from my 273 engine so it's probably not right.
I'm running a new 7 blade Mopar fan with a clutch, no shroud.
Don't know where timing is, I only have an old timing light but I have tried moving distributor with no effect.
Click to expand...

So, I would get a temp gauge and find out how hot.
Buy a new timing light and set the initial timing and find out what the total shoudl be and if your getting it.
Go from there.


What is the carb? Holley, Edelbrock, ThermoQuad?
Is there a part number, cfm, etc?
 
The stock 4bbl. Carb on a 273 is a Carter of approx. 500 cfm and is to lean for a 340 & larger engine. You need to re-jet it or actually better off get a larger carb and a tuning kit.
Follow up with a timing light (dial back) and a temp gauge.

Stop fooling around! Get what is needed!
 
Okay, Ill bite.
You got a "hot" motor. You are depending on the factory dash guage and have not verified it with a second guage. You have tried 3 other stats, and also no stat with same results. You have no shroud. And a clutch fan. And you are looking to the carb as the problem?
-Come on. Go buy an IR gun.You have all the reasons for overheating, or not, staring you in the face( new rad not withstanding). The carb is not on that list,yet. If it was lean enough to be the cause of it you would have all kinds of drive-ability issues, which you dont mention.
-Heres what you do. Prove the cooling system. Number one;Put the IR on it. Then after you have PROVED its too hot,we can help you figure out why.
-I can think of at least 6 reasons right now as to why it COULD be hot, and the carb is not on the list.
 
I use a 30 YO timing light. Why don't they work? You move the distributor yet you have no clue where it's set... that's a recipe for success!

This is comparable to my favorite sarcastic question. what color underwear am I wear?

Take a wild guess and you may be right. No pertinent info here to make any suggestions for a resolution.

You need to baseline the set up and taking guesses IS NOT the best approach.
 
This guy really doesn't give a crap and is looking to brighter minds to solve his problem even though we are more clueless than him and his lack of info.
 
How can a 273 four barrel carb make a car run "hot"? A smaller carb doesn't run "leaner" than a bigger carb. Any carb is constructed to provide the proper air/fuel ratio based on air flow. Based on some of the above "logic" that means a two barrel carb will run "hotter". How silly this thread has become! The best advice is to buy the now reasonably priced IR pistol that measures surface temperatures instantaneously. Point it at the thermostat housing, radiator hoses, top of radiator tank, lower radiator tank, and exhaust manifolds. In less than a minute you will have a number of data points to evaluate engine heat and coolant temperatures. Then report back to us.
 
dibbons said:
How can a 273 four barrel carb make a car run "hot"? A smaller carb doesn't run "leaner" than a bigger carb. Any carb is constructed to provide the proper air/fuel ratio based on air flow. Based on some of the above "logic" that means a two barrel carb will run "hotter". How silly this thread has become! The best advice is to buy the now reasonably priced IR pistol that measures surface temperatures instantaneously. Point it at the thermostat housing, radiator hoses, top of radiator tank, lower radiator tank, and exhaust manifolds. In less than a minute you will have a number of data points to evaluate engine heat and coolant temperatures. Then report back to us.
Click to expand...

It all depends on how the carb is jetted.... Too lean and it'll run hot
 
dibbons said:
How can a 273 four barrel carb make a car run "hot"? A smaller carb doesn't run "leaner" than a bigger carb. Any carb is constructed to provide the proper air/fuel ratio based on air flow. Based on some of the above "logic" that means a two barrel carb will run "hotter". How silly this thread has become! The best advice is to buy the now reasonably priced IR pistol that measures surface temperatures instantaneously. Point it at the thermostat housing, radiator hoses, top of radiator tank, lower radiator tank, and exhaust manifolds. In less than a minute you will have a number of data points to evaluate engine heat and coolant temperatures. Then report back to us.
Click to expand...

A smaller carb doesn't run "leaner" than a bigger carb.
Click to expand...
Really!?!?!?!?! That is an amazing statement! It only blows me away and only to be bested by;
An
y carb is constructed to provide the proper air/fuel ratio based on air flow.
Click to expand...
To answer this one;
Based on some of the above "logic" that means a two barrel carb will run "hotter". How silly this thread has become!
Click to expand...
Running on logic alone? REALLY! Now you lead silly.

OK, for starters my man, looking at a 273 carb, which has jets and rods calibrated for that size engine and it's performance level in the car it is in as well as the trans and rear ratio/tire combo.
Move this set unit onto a different engine and the set up is now not just off but more likely completely off.

Same would be for a 440 HP carb onto the 273. But re-jetting the carb to work properly seems to have escaped you. And escaped it has quite well.
 
You want silly? OK. IR gun, IR gun, IR, IR,IR,IR gun.
-Assuming the rad is new and correctly functioning, and not in any way restricted as to airflow, here are 6 reasons that your 273 MAY, I say MAY be running hot: 1) faulty water pump, 2) slipping belt, 3)no shroud, 4) faulty fan clutch, 5)collapsing lower rad hose, 6)mis-matched pulleys, 7) corroded cooling system, Eight)Wrong coolant, 9)late ignition timing. Oh wait thats 9, And carb still aint on the list.
Query; When is 195* not too hot? Answer; Well; A) when its 35* below and your heater aint putting out lol, or B) When the motor puts out more power and gets better mpg at 200*, or 205*, or 210*, or 215*, or 220*. Ok, sooner or later, the oil will give up if you are brave enough to run much warmer. Modern 4 cylinder EFIs regularly run up there for thousands of miles.Of course your vintage 273 cooling system would need some mods to do that.
 
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