Carb recommendation for 360 Magnum

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Yup Ignition is dialed. Its around 15 / 34 if I remember right. The current carb is running ok, I just don't know how old it is or who's been in there (Im not the original purchaser). Also don't need the electric choke. The current 1406 isn't "bad" per se, just wondering what else is out there and opinions if id be better off with something else.
Tuning a hot rod isn't like tuning a stocker. Those numbers are starting points - to get the most out of it will require systematic testing - that's the tuning that has to be done with a hot rod.

Looking at your goals, and car specs, most important will be good torque in the street driving speeds. Not a lot of converter and turning an A/C, I just don't see looking for the slight gain in manifold pressure at top end - which yes, if taken advantage of, should yield slightly better mph in the 1/4 mile.

the carb you have is fine..don't waste your money. Take it apart, jet it and adjust it for your combination.They are very simple and infinitely adjustable! I like theses carbs.
A complete manual for disassembly and tuning is available on the
Edelbrock web site.

This is probably the best advice in your situation. Maybe the new phenolic Street Demon would be another good choice due to its fuel insulation (like a T-quad, but for your intake). I'd see what you can get out of your Eddy. You can tune the highway cruise vs. WOT with standard parts (rods and jets and springs) unlike the Holley which, if its off, will require drilling and tapping.

You should be able to remove the choke if you find it anoying. A lot of guys do that with Holleys too. I've got one in a ziplock right now. lol. One day it will go back on, but only after I get it tuned where I want.

Here's the direct link to the tuning manual for your 1406 (and family).
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/dl/carb-owners-manual.pdf
The only thing in it that is misleading is the recommended AFRs. AFR needs are mostly related to load as shown here. When you get your WBO2 setup, use it for reference rather than to target some AFR. The best AFRs are the ones that make the most power for least fuel. At the track, that will be the AFR gets the best mph. On the highway, light cruising, the leanest that doesn't surge.

Chrysler Carb booklets can be found here, starting in in 1966 will be good.
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
 
In regards to percolating of the carb, get an Ede 9265 or 9266.
Problem solved.

EDL-9265_ml.jpg


edl-9266_cp_ml.jpg
 
@Mattax Holley's require drilling and tapping to tune? News to me...
The amount of fuel for enrichment is controlled by the power valve channel restrictions. IF one finds the difference between best high speed cruise and best WOT needs adjustment, the PVCRs will need to be enlarged or reduced. Very few 4150 style carbs come with replaceable ones.

You can tune the highway cruise vs. WOT with standard parts (rods and jets and springs) unlike the Holley which, if its off, will require drilling and tapping.
It may be fine as purchased.
 
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Tuning a hot rod isn't like tuning a stocker. Those numbers are starting points - to get the most out of it will require systematic testing - that's the tuning that has to be done with a hot rod.

Looking at your goals, and car specs, most important will be good torque in the street driving speeds. Not a lot of converter and turning an A/C, I just don't see looking for the slight gain in manifold pressure at top end - which yes, if taken advantage of, should yield slightly better mph in the 1/4 mile.



This is probably the best advice in your situation. Maybe the new phenolic Street Demon would be another good choice due to its fuel insulation (like a T-quad, but for your intake). I'd see what you can get out of your Eddy. You can tune the highway cruise vs. WOT with standard parts (rods and jets and springs) unlike the Holley which, if its off, will require drilling and tapping.

You should be able to remove the choke if you find it anoying. A lot of guys do that with Holleys too. I've got one in a ziplock right now. lol. One day it will go back on, but only after I get it tuned where I want.

Here's the direct link to the tuning manual for your 1406 (and family).
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/dl/carb-owners-manual.pdf
The only thing in it that is misleading is the recommended AFRs. AFR needs are mostly related to load as shown here. When you get your WBO2 setup, use it for reference rather than to target some AFR. The best AFRs are the ones that make the most power for least fuel. At the track, that will be the AFR gets the best mph. On the highway, light cruising, the leanest that doesn't surge.

Chrysler Carb booklets can be found here, starting in in 1966 will be good.
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics


Thanks for this, will definitely use this in my search for more power.

My plan was to keep the 1406 and get it tuned/dialed and then use the knowledge I gain on a new carb. But I may not even need to from the sounds of it.

Thanks again.
 
Tuning a hot rod isn't like tuning a stocker. Those numbers are starting points - to get the most out of it will require systematic testing - that's the tuning that has to be done with a hot rod.
Excellent advice! Truest of all words in this world (more so in bold type) to be done on your ride!
BRAVO!!!!


Looking at your goals, and car specs, most important will be good torque in the street driving speeds.
X’s 2! BRAVO!!!!

ABOVE! It’s what most people miss or fail to do.
 
Heres my car specs:

Mostly street driven 72 scamp, full weight, AC.
Currently running Eddy 1406
Rebuilt 99 360 magnum
HEI ignition, stock mopar distributor (parts store type HEI)
LA air gap intake
EQ heads with light bowl work and light shave
9.6:1ish compression
stock mag pistons/crank/rods
Hughes cam 224/226/110
1.6 adjustable roller rockers
Dougs headers, 2.5" exhaust
3:55 SG 8 3/4
2200 stall, 904

Your engine build is similar to mine. Mine was dyno'd at 403 HP and built by IMM Engines in Indio. Where in L.A. are you? I'm in Downey.

I'm running an Edelbrock 650 AVS right now. It's not great, but it works and doesn't need much dicking around. Right now it's running a bit leaner than I'd like, but that's probably because it's freaking cold right now. Well, at least it's cold to us Angelino's. Like others have mentioned, a wideband O2 sensor will help tune your carb.

That being said, I have a Holley 750 that I want to put back on after I replace the rear fuel bowl. I always felt that with the Holley the engine started easier than the Edelbrock, but my rear fuel bowl leaked out the fuel inlet threads, so off it went.
 
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My daily got a light rear ending which needed some insurance paid fixing, and I had to daily the scamp for a bit. Wouldn't you know it that it picked that time to have carb problems?

It decided to suck something up in the needle/ seat and flood on me on a busy road and die out. I took it apart and cleaned it and its running ok but not great (probably needs fine tuning, and could be weather related). I had planned on buying something new in the next few months but felt compelled to buy earlier with those issues.

My reading up was cut short and I went with something familiar and pulled the trigger on the 650 avs2, will report back how it does! I still need to install the Wideband, have been dragging my feet on doing it.

Your engine build is similar to mine. Mine was dyno'd at 403 HP and built by IMM Engines in Indio. Where in L.A. are you? I'm in Downey.

I'm running an Edelbrock 650 AVS right now. It's not great, but it works and doesn't need much dicking around. Right now it's running a bit leaner than I'd like, but that's probably because it's freaking cold right now. Well, at least it's cold to us Angelino's. Like others have mentioned, a wideband O2 sensor will help tune your carb.

That being said, I have a Holley 750 that I want to put back on after I replace the rear fuel bowl. I always felt that with the Holley the engine started easier than the Edelbrock, but my rear fuel bowl leaked out the fuel inlet threads, so off it went.

One of these days I will try out a Holley of some sort, just want it running reliably at the moment and as you say, no dicking around.

And yes, very cold for our standards haha... Im close to downtown LA, also had IMM build my heads. She's got power for a mild setup!

IMG_2336.jpg
 
My reading up was cut short and I went with something familiar and pulled the trigger on the 650 avs2, will report back how it does! I still need to install the Wideband, have been dragging my feet on doing it.

One of these days I will try out a Holley of some sort, just want it running reliably at the moment and as you say, no dicking around.

And yes, very cold for our standards haha... Im close to downtown LA, also had IMM build my heads. She's got power for a mild setup!

View attachment 1715147015

Sorry about the rear ending. That sucks!

Any muffler shop can weld in the bung for you, but my choice of muffler shop is Gene's Muffler's in Downey. They are the only muffler shop in the area that I know that as a mandrel bender. They made my custom X-pipe and also welded in my O2 bung too.

I'm quite curious how that AVS2 will work out for you. I think those have annular boosters right? Kinda interesting. Be sure to post back your results with that carb. The only "dicking" around you might to do is change out the rods, but that's easy and you don't even have to remove the carb for that.

I have a Google sheets calculator that I can share with you that can help you sort of guide your way through to choosing the right rod combination once you know your Air/Fuel ratio.

Where exactly did you take that picture? Nice!! Nice car too. Let's go there for a photo shoot. I'll take my Duster. I need to take new pictures since I have new wheels and tires on it.
 
Sorry about the rear ending. That sucks!

Any muffler shop can weld in the bung for you, but my choice of muffler shop is Gene's Muffler's in Downey. They are the only muffler shop in the area that I know that as a mandrel bender. They made my custom X-pipe and also welded in my O2 bung too.

I'm quite curious how that AVS2 will work out for you. I think those have annular boosters right? Kinda interesting. Be sure to post back your results with that carb. The only "dicking" around you might to do is change out the rods, but that's easy and you don't even have to remove the carb for that.

I have a Google sheets calculator that I can share with you that can help you sort of guide your way through to choosing the right rod combination once you know your Air/Fuel ratio.

Where exactly did you take that picture? Nice!! Nice car too. Let's go there for a photo shoot. I'll take my Duster. I need to take new pictures since I have new wheels and tires on it.

Thanks for the heads up on the muffler shop. def good to know who has a mandrel bender around the area.

Definitely interested in the calculator too when I get there. I received the AVS2 in the mail yesterday and plopped it on. Only got to idle it and drive around the block but it seems to rev easier and definitely idle smoother than the old carb. Will update once I get some more time with it. WB O2 will help a ton.

For the photo, I took it just east of downtown LA on the other side of the river (ditch). I believe they film a lot of chase scenes there, its a huge wide open space behind some industrial buildings, and trains basically run thru the lot. Im down for a little A body shoot! That would be awesome, def bring the duster up.

Funny story, when I pulled up there a bunch of newer Nissans/ infinities were doing a big group shoot. As I pulled up to a stop in the photo location a cop car rolled in which usually isn't fun.... to my surprise he rolled down his window next to me and started asking me about what engine I have. It turned out he had a 73 cuda at home with a 360 in it. Funny when I first saw him I was trying to think if I did anything illegal in the last 10 mins with my car that I was getting hit for. Not at all the case.

IMG_2343.jpg
 
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