Centerlink install - hard to turn wheel now

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Billy the average guy

Billy the average guy

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FABO Gold Member
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i re-installed the centerlink after removing to change pan gasket on /6 and now extremely hard to steer car. 1974 Valiant Scamp. All stock. Power steering equiped.

I notice one side of link is stamped "GEAR". Should that be on steering gear (pitman) side? Does it make a difference? It all looked same to me.
 
Appears you put it on backwards.
 
Is it even possible to put in on backwards with the tapered holes on the center link? Not thinking so!
 
The center links do look to be symmetrical. Another member solved his issue ( Idler arm failures? I forget ) by switching the center link end for end.
I'm wondering why yours is marked GEAR at one end while majority of them have nothing more than number markings. I have one from a 73 model V8 Valiant and one from a 75 model \6 Valiant here and never saw "GEAR" marked on either of them. I will look again.
A tip to everyone reading here... Mark parts before you scatter them. The way I got this tip was "Write on the right" before pulling brake rotors. That little tip/method to the madness has served me well for a lot of years.
 
Grab the centerlink anywhere and attempt to rotate it to and from the rad. It should swivel freely thru several degrees, like maybe 5* or 7. If it doesn't it's probably bound up because like RRR says. Once you get it off you'll see a slight offset between the arm holes and the tierod holes.
The drop zone should be perpendicular to the floor. Yours appears to be swung rearwards.
Also, I seem to recall that the end that goes to the steering box is slightly longer from the pin to the tierod;not sure.

Did you by any chance, at the same time, have the idler arm out? While the link is off, just make sure it swivels freely; a tiny bit of resistance is normal. If it flops over it's either in need of grease or may be on it's last legs. Pull it down hard and wiggle it fore and aft, it shouldn't have any play in that direction,or at least extremely little.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
Grab the centerlink anywhere and attempt to rotate it to and from the rad. It should swivel freely thru several degrees, like maybe 5* or 7. If it doesn't it's probably bound up because like RRR says. Once you get it off you'll see a slight offset between the arm holes and the tierod holes.
The drop zone should be perpendicular to the floor. Yours appears to be swung rearwards.
Also, I seem to recall that the end that goes to the steering box is slightly longer from the pin to the tierod;not sure.

Did you by any chance, at the same time, have the idler arm out? While the link is off, just make sure it swivels freely; a tiny bit of resistance is normal. If it flops over it's either in need of grease or may be on it's last legs. Pull it down hard and wiggle it fore and aft, it shouldn't have any play in that direction,or at least extremely little.
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Never removed the idler. Tried to but the engine was still installed and couldn't remove the bolt without detaching the engine mounts, and since the transmission was removed I didn't want to do a balancing act.

Will check it tonight once the c-link removed. Thank you!
 
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