moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yep. Should make it fit a little tighter. I added a pic to my previous post.
Changing 67 Fastback rear valance
- Thread starter 68 A
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Another option is to clamp the old and new ones together then cut thru both of them at the same time this will make a cut that allows both the new valance and old valance to butt together with no overlap. You got to make real precision cuts for that though, and some careful wire welding.
I'll try cutting it between the ribs. I'm not gonna attempt the butt weld.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Well, got it trimmed down, held on with a couple screws at the moment. Wanted to get exhaust on to see how everything looked before welding just in case
Of course, not real happy with the location of the tips in the valance. I think the only real option is to modify the tailpipes and move them up closer to the frame rail to get rid of the 2 finger gap.
When your sitting on the floor staring directly at it I don't like it, but when its sitting on the ground and hidden by the bumper it might not be that big of a deal. But if I don't address it now it probably won't happen.
Of course, not real happy with the location of the tips in the valance. I think the only real option is to modify the tailpipes and move them up closer to the frame rail to get rid of the 2 finger gap.
When your sitting on the floor staring directly at it I don't like it, but when its sitting on the ground and hidden by the bumper it might not be that big of a deal. But if I don't address it now it probably won't happen.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Looks good so far. Factory exhaust tips have built in flat sheetmetal hooks and rubber biscuit mounts that bolt to the framerails with clip nuts. Heres a repop set of tips. Kinda hard to see from your pix.
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I have a TTI 3" exhausts with their tips. Hangers are welded to the tailpipe with a similar rubber mount as stock.
Most pics I'm finding from google are similar gap to mine except for:
The ModCuda Page! '69 Plymouth Barracuda with Mod Interior
Most pics I'm finding from google are similar gap to mine except for:
The ModCuda Page! '69 Plymouth Barracuda with Mod Interior
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I just test fit our 2.5" stainless tips with the repop hangers I got from Dales Cuda Shop. They also hang down from the valance pan a bit low like yours. I am going to cut and shorten the hangers on the tips , then get a buddy of mine to tig weld em back up. Heres the latest. Now fitting the trunk side bumper support brackets against the valance and trunk floor.
Made a new thread in the fuel section asking the following:
My 3" tailpipes and gas tanks are competing to occupy some of the same space, I might have enough room if I bend the seam on the gas tank over, not sure if this would cause any issue with the weld and cause a leak? I know it'll damage the powder coat. I already trimmed the excess metal on the seam off and still need some more room.
Also, if they do end up touching or almost touching, is there a head shield material that I could put on the tank?
Thanks,
Steve
My 3" tailpipes and gas tanks are competing to occupy some of the same space, I might have enough room if I bend the seam on the gas tank over, not sure if this would cause any issue with the weld and cause a leak? I know it'll damage the powder coat. I already trimmed the excess metal on the seam off and still need some more room.
Also, if they do end up touching or almost touching, is there a head shield material that I could put on the tank?
Thanks,
Steve
Bend the flange out of the way. You pretty much have to with TTI tail pipes. Put a small adjustable wrench on the flange and you can bend it easy.
You dont want it hitting at all and you need a little clearance. If its touching you will transfer heat to your fuel tank and it will rattle you insane.
You dont want it hitting at all and you need a little clearance. If its touching you will transfer heat to your fuel tank and it will rattle you insane.
Thanks, was thinking about heat, didn't even consider the rattling yet.
Dual exhaust isn't simple on the 67 model. Trans cross member isn't relieved both sides to clear two exhaust pipes. The one tank strap routed left to right gets in the way too. Good luck with that.
If you plan to have bumperettes/bumper guards on the 67, the font pair can be mounted on bumper bolt holes so you dont have to drill additional holes in the bumper. Try this at the back bumper and you discover the bumper guard will be right in front of the reverse lamps. A rear valance that doesn't already have the holes for reverse lamps provides opportunity to move the reverse lamps (about 3 inches left and right). You would have to add holes in the rear cross member before welding the valance on. The reverse lamp fixtures need those holes in the cross member for clearance. Any advantage to doing this?... If I get tired of looking at the bumper guards I can take them off again. Put the bumper bolts back and carry on. I have considered removing the front bumper guards and the front plate bracket ever since I put them on. The front of the car looked cleaner if not better without all that clutter. I added a lamp to that front plate and would need to undo that too. It would still have P L Y M O U T H in block letters spread all the way across the front. OEM clutter
If you plan to have bumperettes/bumper guards on the 67, the font pair can be mounted on bumper bolt holes so you dont have to drill additional holes in the bumper. Try this at the back bumper and you discover the bumper guard will be right in front of the reverse lamps. A rear valance that doesn't already have the holes for reverse lamps provides opportunity to move the reverse lamps (about 3 inches left and right). You would have to add holes in the rear cross member before welding the valance on. The reverse lamp fixtures need those holes in the cross member for clearance. Any advantage to doing this?... If I get tired of looking at the bumper guards I can take them off again. Put the bumper bolts back and carry on. I have considered removing the front bumper guards and the front plate bracket ever since I put them on. The front of the car looked cleaner if not better without all that clutter. I added a lamp to that front plate and would need to undo that too. It would still have P L Y M O U T H in block letters spread all the way across the front. OEM clutter
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Thought that goofy one sided trans crossmember thing was 64-66. By 67 they were notched on both sides because of big block A body 67s the 383 was optional unless maybe yours was an early build 67. But yes sideways single fuel tank strap is an issue. On my 67 notch build which is sidelined at the moment I used a 68 up spare tire mount when I replaced the spare tire well. Will also be changing the shock upper crossmember with a 68 up one, and converting it to a double strap 68 up fuel tank setup for a little more room for exhaust pipes.
I just finished swapping out the shock crossmember and spare tire/gas tank strap mount on my friends 67. Very easy to do but of course the panels are pricey if you buy new. Other than cost, its a fairly easy swap. As far as I can tell, the 67 used the same trans crossmember as the later cars.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
68 A if I can make a suggestion, that spare tire tub looks to be in great shape. I'd get that spare tire tub cleaned up, grind out any minor rust, especially in the low spots of the strengthening ribs, prime it good, and coat it with 3M roll on bedliner material. Seal it up good on the inside, it and your repair patch will last forever sealed up.
I've already crossed the trans member and single strap bridges
Custom built trans crossmember to hold the TR6060
Took some angle iron to build some mounts, got some 80's chevy blazer tank straps and bent them to fit
Trimmed and bent the tank lip
Put the tailpipe in the vice
Cut and tacked the tailpipe hanger to get the tip where I want it
Thanks for the comments guys!
Custom built trans crossmember to hold the TR6060
Took some angle iron to build some mounts, got some 80's chevy blazer tank straps and bent them to fit
Trimmed and bent the tank lip
Put the tailpipe in the vice
Cut and tacked the tailpipe hanger to get the tip where I want it
Thanks for the comments guys!
Forgot the Pics:
Mat, I have some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, I'll get to the trunk floor sometime. Thanks for the input, I appreciate any suggestions that you see.
Mat, I have some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, I'll get to the trunk floor sometime. Thanks for the input, I appreciate any suggestions that you see.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I love your tank strap solution. Simple and works. One thing I would add to it would be to drill the angle brackets where they are against the spare tire well, and through bolt those welded on angles to the trunk spare well with carriage bolts and some maybe 2" diameter 1/16" thick round washer plates on the inside of the well to prevent those angles from fatiguing the spare well sheetmetal from the weight of a full gas tank. If they are only welded to the bottom of the spare well sheetmetal they will eventually crack under the weight pulling against them, and tear out.
Note the spare tire bracket on the 68 up cars inside the well with slots poking thru the spare well for the J hooks. This cannot be pulled thru the bottom of the well at all unless the spare well is rotted thru.
I also like the way you drew the tips up tighter. Looks cleaner.
Note the spare tire bracket on the 68 up cars inside the well with slots poking thru the spare well for the J hooks. This cannot be pulled thru the bottom of the well at all unless the spare well is rotted thru.
I also like the way you drew the tips up tighter. Looks cleaner.
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I tried flanging a piece on my 67. Still working it but it will turn better than it was. That was my only goal.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
67/6barracuda that looks great. Awesome stitching job.
Yea, there's not a whole lot of surface area where my rear angle is welded to the trunk floor. I'll add a washer like you said.
I couldn't take the tips where they were. They would have fit with the old valance as they weren't even in the notch. Tough to tell but where they are now I can get the end of my finger up to my finger nail in-between the tip and valance.
I think I'm going to pass on putting the backup lights in. The lights I have are in rough shape, don't want to spend the money on them, kinda want to clean the back up a bit. Looks like some LED kit I can get that will bolt on with the license plate and will be hidden and bright.
I couldn't take the tips where they were. They would have fit with the old valance as they weren't even in the notch. Tough to tell but where they are now I can get the end of my finger up to my finger nail in-between the tip and valance.
I think I'm going to pass on putting the backup lights in. The lights I have are in rough shape, don't want to spend the money on them, kinda want to clean the back up a bit. Looks like some LED kit I can get that will bolt on with the license plate and will be hidden and bright.
I hope there is more to those strap brackets than what is shown on the outside.
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