can anyone tell me whats involved with changing cam and lifters with motor in car? I collapsed a hydraulic lifter and the cam has a flat spot on the lobe. the car is a 69 plymouth valiant and the motor is a blueprint engines 408 stroker with magnum heads and comp cams 280 474" cam. I don't want to pull the motor and i've never changed a cam. thanks
changing cam in car
- Thread starter 73dodge
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If you pull the radiator, intake , valvecovers, water pump, Harmonic balancer, timing cover. Then remove the rocker shafts, pull the push rods out, pull the lifters out, remove the fuel pump drive, then the timing chain, remove the 4 bolts at the cam cover, slide cam out W/long bolt threaded into the end of cam as a handle (they also sell special cam handles but the bolt thing works).
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
If it was me. I would pull the motor. It is a little more work than pulling the rad and grill off but will make the job you have to do way EZer. I don't like laying on the fenders trying to reach. It makes the job very frustrating.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
And be careful pulling the cam out and putting the other one in because is very easy to damage the cam bearings then you'll be in trouble. Take your time and don't force it. If it gets stuck slowly move it around until it moves again.
Yall probably wont believe this. I watched a guy change a cam at the drag strip. Less than 2 hours. 69 Camaro called Pacemaker. He didn't pull the intake. He pulled the push rods and let cam knock the lifters up. Amazingly they all stayed up. How lucky was that ?!?!?
496dart
future prostock driver
this is way easier than pulling the engine . I just did a 69 RR , it took maybe 8 hours .
moper
Well-Known Member
How many miles was it driven after it got the dead hole? How many miles on it total?
MOPARJ
What can I upgrade now?
I got lucky...I collapsed a lifter on my 318 this weekend after a long drive. Fired her up at the gas station and click click click (very loudly). I drove it very slowly about 3 miles to a safer spot and towed it home. It was a Comp lifter on an XE268 cam. I pulled the intake and put a new (non Comp lifter) in yesterday and fired it up. It took a minute to pump up, but got quite and seems to be ok. Luckily, I saw no noticable damage to the cam and never had a backfire, so I think I lucked out. Seems to be running just fine now. I will not use Comp lifters again (except for the ones still in the motor that are ok).
I would just pull the radiator and accessories to change the cam. It is a bit harder, but not too bad.
I would just pull the radiator and accessories to change the cam. It is a bit harder, but not too bad.
MOPARJ
What can I upgrade now?
I was going to ask the same question. I wouldnt think a collapsed lifter would flatten a lobe that quickly, unless it was driven completely collapsed on the lobe for many miles or time.
LXguy
Well-Known Member
This is actually pretty common. When I was heads-up racing Fords we changed cams at the track a couple of times. On a latemodel Mustang, you pull the radiator and you can get the cam out without it hitting the bumper cover/grill. There are magnetic tools to lift the lifters to where you don't have to remove the intake (only works with hydraulic/solid roller lifters obviously). We could change a camshaft in a little under 2 hours.
On a latemodel LS1 style motor, you can spin the cam to set the lifters up in their bores and change the cam that way.
Id way rather pull the radiator, etc. than pull the engine. especially with headers and such.
Steve
I'd pull the engine and inspect the main/rod bearings and cylinder walls. Garbage goes everywhere when a lifter/cam gets eaten.
Take it all the way down and clean everything with a power washer.
J... run the engine just like breaking it in with the new lifter. Got to get that one spinning.
Take it all the way down and clean everything with a power washer.
J... run the engine just like breaking it in with the new lifter. Got to get that one spinning.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
i was just going to suggest the same thing. the metal from that cam went somewhere. be a shame to put it all back together and wipe the bearings out because you missed some metal. just happened to a friend earlier this year. wiped a cam, replaced the cam, even pulled the pan and checked to see if there was any metal in the bearing. didn't see anything so he put a new cam in broke it in changed the oil and the motor was knocking 2 months later. metal was hidden somewhere and screwed up the oil pump when it surfaced. so do it right the first time and save your self some money.
deadly dart
Well-Known Member
The Chevy guy who left the lifters in was running a roller cam with the lifters that are the horizontal spring loaded link bars. Those raise themselves up far enough for the cam lobes to clear.
Thrasher
YoungestMemberUALocal7
Haha wow that's crazy!
I ripped down a running motor to degree the cam and had it back together the same evening. I got home from work at 4:15, ripped it down, degreed the cam and had it back running again and had time for dinner and a shower so... :cheers:
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
Are they not honoring the warranty, or has is it run out? I'm just concerned since I have their 408 motor, but with the RPM Eddy heads.
MOPARJ
What can I upgrade now?
Yep, that's what I did...2,000-2,500 for a few minutes and it was quiet after install, then drove it a while. Oil pressure is good. No cam damage.
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I've been seeing a lot of cam failure with Comp Cams lately.
71-440-Duster
Well-Known Member
My brother had the same thing happen to him using Comp Cam and lifters in his 408 stroker. He has built many motors and has never had any problems, but then he said that he would never use a Comp stuff again...
496dart
future prostock driver
Comp solid lifters and timing chain in my engine. 2 years no problems. I do add comp or hughes lube with every oil change.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
thats what everyone is saying. using the additive is cheap insurance.
wazoo64
Well-Known Member
Are you seeing failures with flat tap or roller cams?
MOPARJ
What can I upgrade now?
Mainly flat tappet cams....
Also, you could use Valvoline VR1 oil, with no additive like I do. It is a racing oil with plenty of zinc.
Also, you could use Valvoline VR1 oil, with no additive like I do. It is a racing oil with plenty of zinc.
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