Maybe I need to do a how to. It won't be on a Mopar, but on my 75 F250, Gladys. I need to do some work on her cluster anyway and was going to swap in LEDs then.
Changing gauge cluster light bulbs - How To
- Thread starter SGlez10
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SGlez10
68 Barracuda
Redline GaugeWorks in Santa Clarita did a full restoration on my gauges and these are the bulbs he agreed would be just fine.
Yup. Those are the ones I put in Vixen. Very effective.
You've done an incredible job on her Saul! Love the gills too!
Oh get an led equivalent for the dome light, those babies get warm lol.
Oh get an led equivalent for the dome light, those babies get warm lol.
SGlez10
68 Barracuda
Thanks Steven. Yes I’ll get another one for the dome light as well.
If you were lookin at the panel with the engine off, then the bulbs were only getting ower at battery voltage, approx 12.5 V.
When driving, the bulbs will be getting power around 14 V. Makes a difference.
Also , your panel may have one or two bulbs out.
When driving, the bulbs will be getting power around 14 V. Makes a difference.
Also , your panel may have one or two bulbs out.
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Rally cluster dash bulbs..
As always, I ask and I receive when it comes to A body Barracuda questions. Does anyone know how many light bulbs are in the dash (circuit board)? I'm wanting to replace them with new bulbs I found for sale (OEM) and figured this should help with lighting issue I have.(weak) I just don't know...
www.forabodiesonly.com
'67 restored
4 illumination bulbs
If you leave one incandescent bulb in somewhere, the dimmer will work. I left them in my aftermarket gauges.
That's an interesting idea.
SGlez10
68 Barracuda
I really hope that’s not the case. It was rebuilt a year ago and has been sitting out of the car unused until this year. I never thought about putting LED’s in while it was still out because honestly I thought the brand new bulbs put in during restoration were going to be more than good enough. Well now, I see they’re not. Lesson learned. These pictures were taken during the restoration process
Well if its one bulb, study the illumination pattern it should be obvious which area is shadowed.
The difference in voltage is unquestionably an influence on brightness.
In addition to the diffenence in uspply voltage between running on battery and running on alternator, there is the differnce across the bulb. In practical terms, if there is poor grounding, then the voltage across the bulb will be reduced.
I bring this up because I don't see the ground wire in your cluster photo. Is in neccessary? Probably not. Does it help, surely yes.
The difference in voltage is unquestionably an influence on brightness.
In addition to the diffenence in uspply voltage between running on battery and running on alternator, there is the differnce across the bulb. In practical terms, if there is poor grounding, then the voltage across the bulb will be reduced.
I bring this up because I don't see the ground wire in your cluster photo. Is in neccessary? Probably not. Does it help, surely yes.
SGlez10
68 Barracuda
I’ll make sure to double check all this. Thank you.
I got my non-polarized bulbs from a company called SuperBrite
Inertia
Well-Known Member
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ . . . This ! !
Are the Non polarized bulbs as bright as the polarized ones? In order to get the non polarized feature, you need two more diodes, which is another ~1.5 volt drop. I have never fooled with any, just curious.
SGlez10
68 Barracuda
I’ll make sure to double check all this. Thank you.
French demon
Well-Known Member
Here is what I get with clean/polished lenses and standard 5W bulbs in a '68 Valiant cluster.
It's a bench test so no dimmer and this is max power bright.
IMO, no need for leds, lighting is more than enough with bulbs.
It's a bench test so no dimmer and this is max power bright.
IMO, no need for leds, lighting is more than enough with bulbs.
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SGlez10
68 Barracuda
If mine looked like that
SGlez10
68 Barracuda
I meant to say if mine looked like that I wouldn’t have posted this thread.
SGlez10
68 Barracuda
Ok. So what exactly is your point? That I need to see it while car is running? Make sure it’s grounded correctly?
Yes yes and yes.
What bulb did you use?
I know my stock 67 dart dash last time I had it out I replaced all the bulbs and most of the holders.
One holder was tight but not making good contact and that bulb would come and go.
That side of the dash would be dim, then bright then dim. After I fixed the holder it has stayed on and there is no issue.
Another thing to look at is is the rheostat providing full power at full on position.
It might have excess resistance in its sweep or in the connector terminals.
French demon
Well-Known Member
I think that you should make a "bench" test, out of the car and bypassing the dimmer, with a battery or a battery charger.
This way, you'll get the max power the bulbs can give.
If you get the same illumination than me with my '68 Valiant cluster, you'll be sure that your problem comes from a bad grounding or a defficient dimmer.
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The contacts on the bulb sockets can corrode and loose spring tension. Replacing them would be a good idea. The replacement 5/8 inch bulb sockets are a little harder to find than the 1/2 inch ones. The 1/2 are very common, used in fords I think. Don’t try and use the 1/2 inch, they might work if you get them in just perfect, but they won’t be reliable.
FEATHERDUSTER76
The Feather Duster is Mopar's Light Weight
I went with LEDs green and put white overlays on the gauges in my Duster , I ended with nice lighting that way and don't miss the dimer feature 1 led in backwards
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