CHOOSING THE RIGHT TORQUE CONVERTER

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Keep in mind you have a torque monster according to the dyno spec sheet. And a pretty strong cam. I'd agree with those who recommended a stall of 2500-2800 rpm. Any higher and the torque will peak and the tires will fry and the trans will take a higher load.

I agree with buying a new flex plate. And indicate the 'wobble' near the converter bolts area. If the old transmission and converter worked, I might try it. Note that you must find out if the engine is internally or externally balanced before you order anything.
 
pt70 said:
Keep in mind you have a torque monster according to the dyno spec sheet. And a pretty strong cam. I'd agree with those who recommended a stall of 2500-2800 rpm. Any higher and the torque will peak and the tires will fry and the trans will take a higher load.

I agree with buying a new flex plate. And indicate the 'wobble' near the converter bolts area. If the old transmission and converter worked, I might try it. Note that you must find out if the engine is internally or externally balanced before you order anything.
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Thanks for the info pt70 things I need to learn for sure. Engine internally balanced.
Not sure what you mean by 'wobble'..
 
call a converter company and get one custom made to your combo and intended use.. the three most common places that come up are dynamic,ultimate and ptc.

i have used a couple from dynamic and have have been very happy with them..

modern converter technology is incredible.. they flash high but drive on the street like a stock one.. the one in our dart is a 9.5" with a mild 360 and a 3.23 gear. flashes to 3800rpm but it drives around town and on the highway great and when ya mash the throttle it hits like you were shot out of a cannon... gone are the days that you shouldn't go over a 3000 stall on the street..

it always amazes me that guys with put thousands upon thousands into their stroker 800 hp build and trans but skimp on the converter. the damn converter will make or break a combination.. i get it. i was there. i didn't understand it either until i spent the money based on a friends recommendation.. the difference is incredible..

the biggest thing when you are on the phone ordering one is be completely honest on the combination (you have the sheet and dyno sheet so thats easy). and just as important be 100% honest on your intended use. if its 90% street then say that... 90% track then tell them.. its very important. if not 100% honest with them and yourself chances are you will not be happy with the results...

and be prepared to spend 600-800 dollars on a good custom made converter. well worth the money in my opinion... i'd call a few places and see what they recommend, compare what they all say and go with who you feel most comfortable with..
 
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This is a question for you experts out there in FABO land. It doesn't look like Fred is doing any racing but with a engine like he has, he will need something other than a stock converter. Looking at his dyno sheet, What stall speed is needed. Because it's a stroker, it has almost maximum torque right off the bat. The HP doesn't come in till later. Do you want a flash rpm where the two intersect? What's the rule here?
 
abodyjoe said:
call a converter company and get one custom made to your combo and intended use.. the three most common places that come up are dynamic,ultimate and ptc.

i have used a couple from dynamic and have have been very happy with them..

modern converter technology is incredible.. they flash high but drive on the street like a stock one.. the one in our dart is a 9.5" with a mild 360 and a 3.23 gear. flashes to 3800rpm but it drives around town and on the highway great and when ya mash the throttle it hits like you were shot out of a cannon... gone are the days that you shouldn't go over a 3000 stall on the street..

it always amazes me that guys with put thousands upon thousands into their stroker 800 hp build and trans but skimp on the converter. the damn converter will make or break a combination.. i get it. i was there. i didn't understand it either until i spent the money based on a friends recommendation.. the difference is incredible..

the biggest thing when you are on the phone ordering one is be completely honest on the combination (you have the sheet and dyno sheet so thats easy). and just as important be 100% honest on your intended use. if its 90% street then say that... 90% track then tell them.. its very important. if not 100% honest with them and yourself chances are you will not be happy with the results...

and be prepared to spend 600-800 dollars on a good custom made converter. well worth the money in my opinion... i'd call a few places and see what they recommend, compare what they all say and go with who you feel most comfortable with..
Click to expand...
Wow thanks that helps a lot. I figured it wasn't gonna be cheap but I want to do it right I don't need tons of HP in the way I drive but you never know that can change.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Thanks for the info pt70 things I need to learn for sure. Engine internally balanced.
Not sure what you mean by 'wobble'..
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You should be able to use a standard flexplate with any neutral converter, I believe the bolt holes for the converter would be the only thing to verify matching, and at the most all you'd need to do is enlarge the flexplate holes. But if you decide on a B&M flexplate (very thick and very little flex) and the block has been line bored you will need to check the crank/trans centerline, possibly needing to use offset dowels. If the centerline is off the trans pump bushing will wear uneven causing a leak.
 
I've been searching for a torque converter not knowing I can have one maid to fit my application and now after all the help I'm getting I will order one maid to fit my car.
Looks like the price is gonna be more than I thought but what the hell I'm worth it. lol
 
12many said:
You should be able to use a standard flexplate with any neutral converter, I believe the bolt holes for the converter would be the only thing to verify matching, and at the most all you'd need to do is enlarge the flexplate holes. But if you decide on a B&M flexplate (very thick and very little flex) and the block has been line bored you will need to check the crank/trans centerline, possibly needing to use offset dowels. If the centerline is off the trans pump bushing will wear uneven causing a leak.
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I will more than likely use the B&M but not my stock one.
 
toolmanmike said:
You mean a blanket?
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ether, haven't looked at options and never used one before so again all new to me.
But I am enjoying building my car I had no idea it was this much fun but might have to sell a couple of my kids to pay for it all. lol
 
Scatter shields replace stock bell housings in stick transmission cars. FYI
 
toolmanmike said:
Scatter shields replace stock bell housings in stick transmission cars. FYI
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OK thanks you see i'm learning.
I feel like an idiot but better to be one now and fix it than after the car is done then try to fix it.
 
Fred make sure you give them rear gear, tyre size , weight of vehicle, as much info you can . You will get a better matched converter / engine combo.
 
67 gt said:
Fred make sure you give them rear gear, tyre size , weight of vehicle, as much info you can . You will get a better matched converter / engine combo.
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Good idea I am gathering up all the info now not sure on what tire size I will run yet but will get it as close as I can.
 
Talked to a guy at Precision of New Hampton
Gave him the specs and he said $289 and $100 core and can ship it in 2 days when i'm ready.
Part # 5302SSAX. sounds real good to me but will check a little more.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Talked to a guy at Precision of New Hampton
Gave him the specs and he said $289 and $100 core and can ship it in 2 days when i'm ready.
Part # 5302SSAX. sounds real good to me but will check a little more.
Click to expand...
Sounds reasonable.
 
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