USCG CHARGER
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2007
- Messages
- 2,486
- Reaction score
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My buddy made a bolt in piece that you could use with your factory stuff...i have pics in my thread talking about my tubular k frame.
Coilover support bars, how much interest?
- Thread starter Badart
- Start date
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johnparts
Slammed 1
I would be interested in a set around tax time and them being completely weld in.
Badart
Senior Member
Badart
Senior Member
Just to let you guys know, I have ordered the bender dies and tubing to bend up a test set if someone wants to attempt this. I will supply the supports and landings. It will be 1 1/8" .120" wall DOM.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I'm just curious, and I don't read Mopar Muscle, so forgive me but I'm kind of curious...
What was wrong with the stock setup, again?
Or in other words, what problem does this solve?
Thanks
John
What was wrong with the stock setup, again?
Or in other words, what problem does this solve?
Thanks
John
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
This would be called being different and getting rid of the Torsion Bars that seem to always be in the way of something when modifying our cars. Headers, Turbo exhaust Dumps, Starter motors etc. Plus the car would handle quite a bit better, changing spring rates are cheap. 2 Springs only cost about $85.00. You could change the ride height of your car without messing too much with the alignment.
the only reason I like to move it out a little is to clear the factory lower control arm bump plate...the one you cut off for the Alterkation
I also space the shock down like in the above picture to aid in bolting the top of the shock as stated....also for ride height adjustment
Johnparts has the right idea for the re-inforcing of the shock tower....it is what i did on the last Hemi/A-body K-frame build....slick and stealthy
Mopar to ya' all
Denny
I also space the shock down like in the above picture to aid in bolting the top of the shock as stated....also for ride height adjustment
Johnparts has the right idea for the re-inforcing of the shock tower....it is what i did on the last Hemi/A-body K-frame build....slick and stealthy
Mopar to ya' all
Denny
MadDart.
coilovers are about $450 a set. The spring by itself is the inexpensive part of the coilover ...but you have to have the rest to make it work.
a torsion bar is just a straight spring...for me...it is almost easier to adjust ride height with the torsion bar set up than a coilover. moreover if you are having issues with anything when you change the ride height on your torsion bar car....you will have the same issues with a coilover car.
I do like the massive amount of room the coilover set-up offers......a major plus in my book
just my experience...maybe yours differs
coilovers are about $450 a set. The spring by itself is the inexpensive part of the coilover ...but you have to have the rest to make it work.
a torsion bar is just a straight spring...for me...it is almost easier to adjust ride height with the torsion bar set up than a coilover. moreover if you are having issues with anything when you change the ride height on your torsion bar car....you will have the same issues with a coilover car.
I do like the massive amount of room the coilover set-up offers......a major plus in my book
just my experience...maybe yours differs
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Cummon man this is not my first Rodeo!! Yes I know how much Shocks cost....... I'm just saying after the initial cost of the coil over conversion, to change up a spring rate or for what ever reason, the cost is only $85.00.
You can do a complete Home Brew Coil over conversion with Everything for under $800.00.
No problem....I realize YOU knew.....but some might be confused...and I just wanted to clairify..
Right with ya on the conversion....maybe less????
I love the idea of coilovers with the stock steering gear for MOST engine combos
Right with ya on the conversion....maybe less????
I love the idea of coilovers with the stock steering gear for MOST engine combos
Badart
Senior Member
That's my thinking too.:cheers:
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Mine shipped out today!
Thanks again John!!
Thanks again John!!
BTW Mad Dart....great build on the '67 Dart,I've eyeballed your thread often....I think it is one of the first ones I really started following a few years back.
koodoos on the beefy 4-bar....nice work!
koodoos on the beefy 4-bar....nice work!
DR HEMI
Man on a Mission
Really? Then who all is running your stuff?
ardentindustries
Well-Known Member
Am I understanding the concern about the lower control arm correctly? Now that there is no torsion bar, the lower control arm is simply sticking out to the spindle with no triangulation type support?
If I am understanding correctly, then IMO, you'll need some sort of diagonal link similar to the setup in the Bobs Pro Fab kit. Problem with this I know is...raises cost of product, and will require more fabrication done by the customer to weld tabs in place to accept the diagonal link. Unfortunately, I dont think you'll get around not having something forming some triangulation for stability.
If I am understanding correctly, then IMO, you'll need some sort of diagonal link similar to the setup in the Bobs Pro Fab kit. Problem with this I know is...raises cost of product, and will require more fabrication done by the customer to weld tabs in place to accept the diagonal link. Unfortunately, I dont think you'll get around not having something forming some triangulation for stability.
Badart
Senior Member
That is exactly what we are talking about. I understand the the factory pivot shaft for the lower control arm offers no lateral support other than the pressed on torsion bar key and coupler. I'm working on it. How would it be to have a bolt in tubular chromoly lower control arm using factory attachment points and utilize the factory strut rod mounting location and use a factory K member? LOL
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
You are taking everything I said out of context.
pishta
I know I'm right....
MadDart, could yours be used with a little modification (no coil-over mount on top) to just supply a standard shock mount to an otherwise gutted inner fender on a '65 A? I pulled my cut up inners and was left with just the flimsy free standing stamped shock brace with no inner fender to support it. I was looking at Ford Pickup "shock Hoops" to do the same but yours look easier to fit. Would probably drill and tap frame for bolt on as my welding blows. Maybe an L bracket so the mounting pad is on 2 planes? Something like this Ford SD would be the shiznit sized for our A's
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Phista, I think you meant to direct your post in #45 to Badart.
Badart ,, Maddart........ same thing right?? haaa
Badart ,, Maddart........ same thing right?? haaa
ardentindustries
Well-Known Member
Sounds good...Im not a fan of 4130 on street applications though. It has a tendency to break much sooner than mild steel when stressed. Do a nice tack on a piece, and wiggle it back and forth...then do the same with mild steel. Youll see what I mean.
Badart
Senior Member
Didn't really think about that and I thank you for your help. It's kind of similar to stainless (breaks before it bends too much huh?) How thick of wall DOM and what size tube would you recommend?
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
Seen this discussed some where a while back. One of the things that was mentioned was that there is a chance that the frame rails might roll towards each other over time as there is not much there to stop them. Bars tied into a cage & attached to the upper shock mount were a better solution....from what I remember. How about something like Magnumforce Racing offers except mounted under the inner fenders instead of in the engine compartment? Pretty much what you would do if you had a full cage with snout bars, except instead of being welded to a cage there would be a plate on the firewall?? Now that I am thinking about this I think it was on the BigBlockDart site a few years back....I know in the off road world a support between the two shock hoops is often used to prevent problems....A buddy built this.....
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