It was hooked to a ported vacuum switch. You can see it in the diagram. It hooked to the electronic solenoid. Are you required to have a egr system in Sweden?
Compression test on a 360, result OK or not?
- Thread starter Stephan D
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Stephan D
Well-Known Member
Vintage vehicles have quite liberal regulations here, so no EGR is required. 
No road tax and really cheap enthuseast insurance as well, 160 USD a year
No road tax and really cheap enthuseast insurance as well, 160 USD a year
Than why mess with it. Eliminate the system as maybe part of your issues?
Stephan D
Well-Known Member
Yes, all the pollution stuff is already gone, apart from the PCV.
Three years ago I thought the idle issue was an easy fix, it was not...but I have learned a lot.
Three years ago I thought the idle issue was an easy fix, it was not...but I have learned a lot.
Well you are still using the egr system. In the early 70’s pollution control was mandated very crude. Eliminate it.
Stephan D
Well-Known Member
No no, I messed up the abbreviations EGR with PCV in my earlier posts, have corrected my mistake, sorry, PCV is the only remains now.
Oh ok, makes better sense now. It’s hard to really help someone that’s a few thousand miles away. But maybe you will solve this problem in the end.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I'll try some suggestions.
Use an ohmmeter, measure all the spark plug wires for resistance. They typically will be in the 3,000 to 6,000 ohm range.
What ignition system do you have? Make sure all the connections are clean, and, if it is the stock Mopar ignition module, make sure the case is well grounded to the chassis.
Your 18" of idle vacuum in neutral seems pretty good. The idel variations look normal for a small misfire, and not of any sort of valve problem.
I notice that you said that the engine wanted to die if you started to cover the carburetor. This indicates that the mixture is rich. I would suggest that you lean the mixture and ignore the vacuum gauge readings while doing that. Then try enriching the mixture, again ignoring the vacuum gauge.
Please take out all of the spark plugs and post a picture.
Look down into the carburetor while idling (a mirror and flashlight is useful for this) and make sure there are no visible drops of fuel going down into the carburetor.
And your English is very good!
Use an ohmmeter, measure all the spark plug wires for resistance. They typically will be in the 3,000 to 6,000 ohm range.
What ignition system do you have? Make sure all the connections are clean, and, if it is the stock Mopar ignition module, make sure the case is well grounded to the chassis.
Your 18" of idle vacuum in neutral seems pretty good. The idel variations look normal for a small misfire, and not of any sort of valve problem.
I notice that you said that the engine wanted to die if you started to cover the carburetor. This indicates that the mixture is rich. I would suggest that you lean the mixture and ignore the vacuum gauge readings while doing that. Then try enriching the mixture, again ignoring the vacuum gauge.
Please take out all of the spark plugs and post a picture.
Look down into the carburetor while idling (a mirror and flashlight is useful for this) and make sure there are no visible drops of fuel going down into the carburetor.
And your English is very good!
Stephan D
Well-Known Member
Thanks - Lots of good suggestions!
I will try them all and get back, give me a day or two...
Ignition is Mopar original electronic, new spark-plug wires installed by me two years ago, so I think they should be fine, with the new wires I got rid of micro-jerks at cruising speed.
All the spark plugs look like the one on the picture, but I can take a group photo as well.
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