T56MaxTorq
Well-Known Member
The aft side of the #3 thrust bearing is torn up, crank is wiped out. Likely was from installing the trans. In search of #3 cap and a steel crank.
Crank Thrusting Foreward Issues
- Thread starter T56MaxTorq
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yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Absolute bummer.
The crank can be welded, no big deal.
It got the cap too??? Dayum, it was ate up.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
Any pictures?
T56MaxTorq
Well-Known Member
Yeah the thrust is ate but the bearing surface looks ok, no starvation I don't think.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Just a thought, you may want to check those keys on the trans pump too.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Not.
If the trans install caused that the trans wouldn't have even worked.
It would have trashed the pump so fast you wouldn't have made it around the block.
Think about this.
The crank thrust surface is made out of steel or cast and made to take some pretty heavy loads.
The trans pump gears are powdered iron and not made to withstand hardly any thrust pressures.
It would have wiped that pump in a heartbeat if the converter wasn't seated in the drive gear.
Also, when you bolt an engine and trans together without the converter seated in the pump it's a very obvious ***** to turn the converter to line up the bolts because the converter is jammed up against the flex plate.
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Can you get and over side thrust bearing on the thrust side........I haven't heard of any but that doesn't mean there not out there.
Take some scotch bright and clean up the thrust area of the crank......is it still smooth? just some more to think about. remember, the crank is a lot harder then the bearing.........
Take some scotch bright and clean up the thrust area of the crank......is it still smooth? just some more to think about. remember, the crank is a lot harder then the bearing.........
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
You can see about a .100" gap or more between the crank and the thrust bearing in the main web..... it would be one heckuv an oversize!
Yes but how much of that .100 thou came off of a soft bearing and how much came of a much harder crank?
It could be as simple as a faulty or flawed manufactured bearing, to a toast crank.....I would make sure before i threw a perfectly good crank in the scrap........
T56MaxTorq
Well-Known Member
The amount of wear on the crank is significant, .020" or more. The bearing wore down enough to expose the harder substructure.
I put the trans in twice, with the engine already installed, a way I've never done before. I've always removed/installed an engine with the trans already installed. Guess I'll never do that way again.
I am a welder and I have access to a nice miller gtaw. Any special way to weld it up? What about filler rod material?
I put the trans in twice, with the engine already installed, a way I've never done before. I've always removed/installed an engine with the trans already installed. Guess I'll never do that way again.
I am a welder and I have access to a nice miller gtaw. Any special way to weld it up? What about filler rod material?
T56MaxTorq
Well-Known Member
Yeah welding cast sucks. Someone mentioned welding it but maybe they thought I had a steel crank. On the other hand the weld isn't structural, just a bearing surface that would be machined.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
I've recently had to put 2 different transmissions in from underneath leaving the engine in the car , of which I never do as I have always pulled the motor with them. I can tell you with a ton of experience if the converter was not fully seated there is no way in hell you would be able to freely spin the converter to line up the bolt holes. The flex plate and converter would be jammed together and that's even if you could get the block and trans to fully mate together.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I've never had any issues mating the engine to the trans with the trans in the car.....
I have have a one cast crank welded and machined on both thrust surfaces. Held up fine.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Why not? Don't confuse the materials used in cast cranks with the cast iron used in blocks and heads.... very different.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
It is not cast iron like in a block or head.
With the availability of 318 cranks, why bother with welding/ fixing the old one? I'm asking here.
WOW! for some reason i was thinking it was a 360
Shouldn't be two hard to find a crank.......
I realise it is not cast iron,
I have been told that it vary difficult to weld, talking out my arrs as i'm no welder.
Shouldn't be two hard to find a crank.......
I realise it is not cast iron,
I have been told that it vary difficult to weld, talking out my arrs as i'm no welder.
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WOW! for some reason i was thinking it was a 360
Shouldn't be two hard to find a crank.......
I realise it is not cast iron,
I have been told that it vary difficult to weld, talking out my arrs as i'm no welder.
it's no harder to weld than a forged piece .
so the question is which is more expensive......weld and have machined properly........or find a used 318 crank?????
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
You are wrong on this. I've seen it done over and over and over. That thrust was killed because the OP didn't have the converter in the pump all the way. In fact, he needs to check the pump as well, as he may have killed it too. Usually the thrust goes first, before the pump.
This is an assembly issue. That's all.
cheaper to get another crank I got 3 340 cast cranks I will let go for little or nothing .
Ok i know that the 360 is externally balanced, and the cast 340 is externally balance...?(different harmonic balancer)
but the 318 cast or forged used the same balancer as the 340 forged or internal balancing.......Right?
but the 318 cast or forged used the same balancer as the 340 forged or internal balancing.......Right?
The 318 and 340 internally balanced use the same balancer. Is that your question?
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