Custom duals to y pipe

[high.rev.trev]

I can say that I have plenty of power. Does that mean it is efficient as it could be I don’t know? I’m not racing so for now I got what I want. If I need to change I know where to look.

Well It's good your happy, only my end a good analogy would be the difference between the Craftsman's satisfaction of a (tuning) job well done, the 1st time or maybe a shops:" This will get the job done, enough to keep the customer impressed & out the door, hopefully with no comebacks..." But hey that's just me & the mentored kids I teach attitude I try to instill, as an aside.

Overlooked noticing you have a supercharged (Huffer ?) Setup in equation - If so the exhaust is going to be way less sensitive, if at all to pipe tuning ( unless talking Restrictive Stk cheap muffler) , IF positively Blown...by that for less informed or jaded eye I mean not Exh driven Turbo'd.

Cheers anyway.
Trev.
PS are you running water/methanol mix full throttle injection add-on ??

 

[lilnoah]

It is a Torqstorm blow through unit. I am running pump gas. My muffler is a black widow 2.5” in and out.

 

[high.rev.trev]

It is a Torqstorm blow through unit. I am running pump gas. My muffler is a black widow 2.5” in and out.

y

Ahhh Yup, I see modern version of the Paxton Setup I mentioned earlier. Nice looking fabb'd setup, I'll note they state in their blurb "Bung added for water/methanol injection"

I'm not familiar with the 'black widow' muffler but I'm sure it suits you fine.

Anyone remember the Paxton mustang Blow through kits that I think Carol Shelbyvwas marketing as an option at one time ?? Like the Studebaker's. They contained thevStd Carb in a Sealed box ( a little like the alloy Olds 215ci V8 '63-65 Carb & Aircleaner.
Interesting what money will buy.
Cheers T.

Dunno how that reply boxed itself ?? - time to go off & watch a Bullitt chase scene rerun...

 

[high.rev.trev]

?? Wtf

Torqstorm pic for others benefit (+ my weirdly hidden further up post encl )

 

[kesteb]

The link I was talking about in post #16.

"https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64250"

There is a video of engine noises on the referenced blog site.

 

[kesteb]

Oh sorry. It looks like they are forcing login to view the content, something that bugs me to no end.

 

[/6 Matt]

Made some custom duals going into a flow master y pipe my question is what diameter should I have the head pipes that are going into the y pipe, 2inch or 2.25 inch the rest of the exhaust is 2.25 already flowmaster has 2inch to 2.5 scavenger y pipe and a 2.25 to 3 inch y pipe. What you guys think I know this thing needs back pressure ,
9 to 1 500 Avs 4 speed 473 lift Howard's camshaft 3.55 gears

Where did you get the exhaust flange that's welded to the from manifold?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Matt, have you seen the new 2.5" slant six full exhaust from TTI. Manifold back, 2.5". That's what I am doing to mine.......although I am having to buy one piece at a time. I have the head pipe sittin in the livin room.

 

[Slantsix64]

Where did you get the exhaust flange that's welded to the from manifold?

It's a universal flange any muffler shop has one.

 

[Slantsix64]

I can make you a set like the one I did if you want. I would recommend welding the heat riser shut depending where you live.

 

[/6 Matt]

Matt, have you seen the new 2.5" slant six full exhaust from TTI. Manifold back, 2.5". That's what I am doing to mine.......although I am having to buy one piece at a time. I have the head pipe sittin in the livin room.

I have seen it actually and strongly considered just buying their head pipe. I'm thinking if I stay single exhaust I'm gonna run a cutout with a 10" glasspack behind it feedinging into a 1 in 2 out flowmaster and then take both sides out in front of the rear tires T/A style

It's a universal flange any muffler shop has one.

that cast iron flange flange that's welded to the cast iron manifold? Not the one that's welded to the header pipe.

I can make you a set like the one I did if you want. I would recommend welding the heat riser shut depending where you live.

I may take you up on that, I have a broken donor manifold. I just have to decide which route I'm going. I am keeping my heat riser though, it gives me zero problems here in NC.

 

[Slantsix64]

Yeah send me a message when ever I already have the rear piece made.

I have seen it actually and strongly considered just buying their head pipe. I'm thinking if I stay single exhaust I'm gonna run a cutout with a 10" glasspack behind it feedinging into a 1 in 2 out flowmaster and then take both sides out in front of the rear tires T/A style

that cast iron flange flange that's welded to the cast iron manifold? Not the one that's welded to the header pipe.

I may take you up on that, I have a broken donor manifold. I just have to decide which route I'm going. I am keeping my heat riser though, it gives me zero problems here in NC.

 

[Duggie]

2" intermediates Works OK on these Slant /6 (which I've been hesitant to post)...$399+ freight for the Clifford's. These you might get some interest/info from seeing ? IF anyone wants a Set I have NO problem sending them Stateside, Even sectioning them up strategically to make a smaller shipping Package, even Considering just making the 2 x Top Pair SETS avail, So you Can flange/Expand the INTERMEDIATE Tubes & extend, Y merge or pair off into true duals to your hearts content ..
( IF your really really nice to me I may consider further getting some 60's/70's tried & proven mothballed /6 Alloy Inlet manifolds recast up again, after a long sojourn, I know where masters ended up (after original speed equipment owner/designer ran into heart troubles - hyper style AFB type 4bbl, 3 x SU's 1bbls, & twin 1bbl down, offy style , triple side weber too from distant memory)
NO trollers, I won't Cough & disclose whereabouts et-al fear of hoodoo'ing idea etc...I didn't come down in last shower...

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Okay, this thread is older than how long I've owned this Dart, but I'm constantly looking for what I don't know so I can hopefully do it right once. If this car was a GM or Ford, the cost for headers would be pennies on the dollar. Part of the price for being so cool I guess.

Before I resign myself to the stock exhaust manifold mod that began this thread, I have to ask if you are still kicking and what you think a pre welded box of pre-bent header parts would set me back. I have a GM hot rodding buddy that is pretty good at melting metal together, and income tax refund season is around the corner...

 

[Mattax]

CHRYSLER - Finished Header Flanges, Plain Header Flanges, Header Flanges with formed Starter Tubes, Header Gaskets
Save 20% by buying Header Kits. Kits available for over 100 engines and cylinder heads.

Plus whatever you value your time at as you may be on the phone for a while if you ask Ed to assemble a slant six kit. But thats should help you ballpark the parts.

 

[Duggie]

CHRYSLER - Finished Header Flanges, Plain Header Flanges, Header Flanges with formed Starter Tubes, Header Gaskets
Save 20% by buying Header Kits. Kits available for over 100 engines and cylinder heads.

Plus whatever you value your time at as you may be on the phone for a while if you ask Ed to assemble a slant six kit. But thats should help you ballpark the parts.

Thanks Mattax! I did say I wanted to know what I didn't know, didn't I? Man. my head exploded just navigating the web site.  I'll pass this on to my GM hot rod buddy and see if he still answers the phone. This could be classic "A friend in need is a pest" syndrome!

 

[Mattax]

There very well may be other places. I knew Ed sold flanges and parts so figured it would at least ballpark materials costs. His website is just as difficult as his catalog was! LOL
He had some good techniques for making merges and also for flanges that are flat even though they are thin.

 

[Duggie]

There very well may be other places. I knew Ed sold flanges and parts so figured it would at least ballpark materials costs. His website is just as difficult as his catalog was! LOL
He had some good techniques for making merges and also for flanges that are flat even though they are thin.

Guys on this site that can resurrect a completely rusted out hulk and do stuff like build headers and turbo systems from scratch leave me awestruck.

 

[volaredon]

I can make you a set like the one I did if you want. I would recommend welding the heat riser shut depending where you live.

If I blocked it either way it would be open not shut, if it's stuck shut it won't breathe

 

[Duggie]

If I blocked it either way it would be open not shut, if it's stuck shut it won't breathe

And making an exhaust system like the cast iron manifold mod may be the way to go for our three-season driver. Bolt on tube headers would be a fun along with a Super Six intake and carb. I'd like to keep its street driving manners while playing with the tune. You know, like having my cake and eating it too!

 

[Slantsix64]

If I blocked it either way it would be open not shut, if it's stuck shut it won't breathe

Incorrect welding the heat riser in the closed position well not cause it not to breathe, it actually directs the heat towards the exit outlet. Depending on your build if you want a heat riser or not, for me welding the heat riser in the closed position helps me in two ways, one I don’t need that gasket the goes in between the intake and the heat riser, two my intake still gets warmed from the heat but not crazy hot causing heat soak and hard starts, with a turn of a bolt I can have the heat riser touching the intake or just underneath it with a gap for that hot summer days. You can see in this photo the heat riser is welded shut on the closed position forcing the hot exhaust air out the manifold.

 

[/sixchall]

My 70 Challenger is powered by a 225 Slant6. I am running a Super Six cast iron intake with a BBD Carter off of a 318. For exhaust I went with Hooker 3 into 1 headers. From each collector back I run 2.25”aluminized pipe in a true dual exhaust fashion with “H” pipe to connect both pipes. Then to a pair of 26” Walker glass packs then continue to back around each side of tank still 2.25” pipe with Cuda style bright tips under rear valance. I’ve had no problems with this set-up for years now. Can still eck out 18-23 MPG’s on 87 at the pump.

 

[Duggie]

Yet another rooky question for those in the know. A set of Clifford headers have been cut up to fit around the power steering and Z bar.

I like what @high.rev.trev had to say about running dual 2" pipe back to a Walker Muffler flipped around so two pipes go into the muffler with one pipe goes out to the rear of the car.

My question is how are the new 2" dual pipes routed from the front of the car to the rear pocket where the muffler goes? The old, single 1 3/4" pipe has a few bends to keep it tucked up against the unibody and parallel to the driveshaft. Two 2" pipes aren't doing that.

Am I making this harder than it needs to be? Is there dual exhaust clearance issues with the car frame set to factory specs? Anyone have a pic of their dual exhaust routing?
As usual thanks in advance for sharing the experience!

 

[WV64Signet]

64 Valiant 225 w headers

Please excuse the nastiness and trashed mufflers.. They're on the to-do list

 

[Duggie]

64 Valiant 225 w headers

Please excuse the nastiness and trashed mufflers.. They're on the to-do list

Thanks for the pics! It looks like you went duals all the way to the back. Did you do any vertical pipe bending to try and keep the exhaust as close to the underbody contour as possible or only bends on the horizontal plane? Any clearance issues? I'm guessing if I don't have any exhaust clamps hanging down lower than the exhaust pipe, if I do high center I'll dent the pipe instead of tearing a header off. I hate learning at the school of hard knocks!

 

[WV64Signet]

Thanks for the pics! It looks like you went duals all the way to the back. Did you do any vertical pipe bending to try and keep the exhaust as close to the underbody contour as possible or only bends on the horizontal plane? Any clearance issues? I'm guessing if I don't have any exhaust clamps hanging down lower than the exhaust pipe, if I do high center I'll dent the pipe instead of tearing a header off. I hate learning at the school of hard knocks!

Last photo is the right side where it is over the rear axle and runs up fairly high and essentially straight to the bottom of the rear bumper. Left side is similar. I'm running 14's on the car and the pipes are up fairly close to the body so I've not had any clearance problems. Only real challenges have been on speedo and shifter cable routing (It's a pushbutton 904) and it is pretty tight on the left side around the headers and the t-bars. The headers are Cliffords and terminate just behind the steering box. I can get a pic later when I get back down into the garage if that would help.