Maybe the voltage limiter? Just a guess. Have you tested power at the pin connector?
Dash lights not working
- Thread starter kuldips
- Start date
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Well it gets hot and it seems like it’s working
And should I buy another circuit board?
Did you test continuity between each pin and where the bulb goes. Sometimes they get crusty where the contact is. I mean, I would hate to buy a new board just to have the same problem. Can you apply power to each pin and see if the problem lies there? Does it only get power via the headlight switch?
Yes I did test continually. And I know the only thing that the headlight switch operates is the dash illumination lights. But then again by board doesn’t look that good.
Ah. My only suggestion for that is the stuff they sell to repair rear defrosters. You tape it off and paint it on. Must be conductive. Or buy a new board.
Mopar Momzee
Well-Known Member
I had a faulty circuit board cleaned everything inside and out finally changed out circuit board. Boom everything worked.
Red is a broken ground, and the bulbs to the left will not light.
Yellow is a broken and overheated ground, how it got overheated is a mystery unless the bulb at the end of the trace somehow shorted
I would buy a replacement cir board at this point.
BUT... Before you install it you MUST do some basic wire testing to be sure you don't have other issues that caused the short that melted the trace ground
Yellow is a broken and overheated ground, how it got overheated is a mystery unless the bulb at the end of the trace somehow shorted
I would buy a replacement cir board at this point.
BUT... Before you install it you MUST do some basic wire testing to be sure you don't have other issues that caused the short that melted the trace ground
Go back to post 8 and read that. If you do not have a service manual, wander over to MyMopar.com and download one, they are free. You may have to settle for ply/ vs Dodge as they don't have ever year, both brands.
Find the wire color for the 12V power from the key that feeds the IVR. Make sure you have that. Testing the output of the dash dimmer is easy. Get into the fuse panel. There are THREE busses. One is the constant hot buss, one is the accessory buss switched by the key, and the last is just one fuse, is the dash lights. TAN coming to it is the power coming FROM the dash dimmer. As I told you earlier, you have to have the park/ tail lamps on and WORKING. Once you get power to that tan, it goes through that fuse (INST for instrument) and then out to all dimmer controlled lamps on ORANGE. One of those orange feeds up to the cluster connector
if you don't understand what each cir does you are playing with fire, LITERALLY
Get a wiring diagram, trace out each cir, UNDERSTAND what each cir does and how.
and Post #8
Looks like don't mean much today. That can could house a solid state regulator. The pictures help. The tiny copper traces serve as fusible links in a overload state. We've seen it at the limiter several times in this forum over the years. You wouldn't want to smell that board burning. You could patch your board but reproductions are available. Main thing is find and correct the faults that would ruin another board. Sadly, a fault can be as far as the fuel sender away from the board. Short that wire to ground and watch. No don't really. Best of luck with it.
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I agree BUT...
red arrows point to the adjusting screw that increases or decreases the voltage.
Solid state would not have that in that form. Maybe a hole for a screwdriver to adjust a pot but unlikely.
blue arrow is an LED indicator
thank y'all for all the help I have parts coming in Friday but until then I’ll do more research, and look at all the stuff yall all sent. This is my first big project for me. I’ll post once more when I get stuff in and test it
Hello everyone my new circuit board came in today and now all of my lights are working while testing my oil light pin it ripped a little bit at the base will it mess up anything with the dash or should I say screw is and I’ll be ok. I also do plane on putting in a real oil gauge as well
I think it might be ok and not break when I plug it in but I don’t know
post a photo of the damaged area. MORE than likely it will only get worse (sorry) IT might be repairable
I thought you bought a NEW board.
It is repairable but you need proper soldering tools and flux
some good info
Https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/how-do-i-replace-these-metal-pieces-from-my-instrument-panel.453221/#post-1972866976
Printed circuit pins repair
It is repairable but you need proper soldering tools and flux
some good info
Https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/how-do-i-replace-these-metal-pieces-from-my-instrument-panel.453221/#post-1972866976
Printed circuit pins repair
I don't see a new reproduction circuit board. One of those boards should have shorter soldered male terminals/pins.
Kinda new
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
First learn the circuits, then we can work on testing. Resistance or continuity checks with a meter are a very basic test. It showns that there is a connection between any two points being probed. It does not show whether its a good connection. That requires a powered test light at minumum or live testing.
The electrical diagram is just like a road map. We don't take every road, we just follow the ones we're interested in. The electrons follow a path connecting them from positive to the negative.
To learn how a circuit functions copy or trace or draw the circuit of interest and make it into a schematic so you can see how the current flows (the path the electrons move along) to the item you are interested in.
Chrysler pamphlet about reading and using the diagrams.
1968 Electrical Wiring (Session 247) from the Master Technician's Service Conference
and the accompanying filmstrip.
1968 Electrical Wiring Filmstrip MTSC (Session 247)
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
Going back to the begining, the instrument lights, along with the radio illumination are on their own circuit. The gages are powered from a different circut. 67Dart273 described the circuits.
Take for example the circuit for getting power to the instrument lights. Insdie the headlight switch it branches off of the circuit feeding the parking and tail lights B2. It can be drawn like this.
When you go to the Service manuals the circuits usually identified by a code, the first part of the code tells what the circuit does.
Found my dads original 1971 duster!
I haven't done a '71 dash removal. You can approach it a couple of ways. One is just remove the components - that's what I've done on my 67 with ralley panel. Other is remove the dash frame itself. I've not done that. Do look for ground wires. On the 67- there is one from the capacitor on...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Do a search for crimping terminals. The terminal you used on your ground wire is not one to rely on for great crimps. Well worth it to use open barrel terminals and the proper crimper.
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