dead again....

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slowdown

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So I had a coil go out on me last spring, just switched it out to a new one and whala it fired up. Well it happend again, this time at the grocery store. Seemed like the exact same symptom so I ran to the auto parts store and grabbed another accel super stock coil installed it and no luck. It turns over for along time before it actually tries to start. But when it does fire off it only runs for a little while then sputters out and dies. Sucks towing your ride away while everyone is watching. I have ruled out the fuel pump as I can hear it running and I have a see through fuel filter right before the carb. It ran fine before I shut it off and went into the store. After I figure it out this time, it's going to be a little hard to trust it for awhile.
 
I would check for spark right at your plugs and make sure it has good blue spark while cranking engine over.
If it doesn't be sure to check from coil wire ,could be a cap or rotor problem if its good out of the coil

Also have seen engines getting plenty of gas, but have water in it causing a no start.
 
Do you have 12 volts at the positive terminal of the ignition coil when cranking? If not then as a test only try jumping 12 volts from the battery to the coil. Don't leave it like this as you could burn open the coil if left like this for too long. Could also be the ignition module , ballast resistor or ignition switch. Good Luck
 
We need a lot more info on the car.
- What year/model/engine?
- Does it have the stock ignition system in it or an aftermarket system? If so, what type?
 
Small block with mp distributor and orange box, ballestor, super stock coil. carter electric fuel pump still on the car I have'nt got around to swapping out to my walbro 392. But the carter seems to keep up with it even with the mini blower on it. The last time this happened I thought it was the orange box, but happen to have another coil in the garage an I got lucky and that was it. I am leaning toward the orange box again. I have'nt done any digging yet as I'm at work and doing some overtime and may not get back to it till next week by the looks of things. The model of the car is a 68 dart, engine is a 318 stroked to 392
 
What carb, and do you have a regulator on it?????
 
Not sure why you were blaming the coil. Now you are blaming the orange box. Often when electrical parts are swapped, that act alone makes better connections. A common problem is a bad ground thru the sheet-metal screws that secures the orange box. Had you just re-installed that box, it might have cured the problem too. To fix that issue permanently, run a dedicated ground wire to the case.
 
So it's doing it still. I had thought I got it, but the weather around here hasn't been that nice so I haven't had my car out. I spent the day in the garage wiring elec fans an checking for leaks on a radiator I put in. I did follow directions on the wiring. This problem existed before I wired the fans, although I thought I got it. After I got it all put back together it started right up, I let it come up to temp to make sure fans kicked on. I went inside for a cup of coffee an then backed it out of the garage an shut it off while I fixed a small antifreeze leak. When I went to start it all it did was turn over no start. I grabbed a spark plug stuck it in the number one wire an had my boy turn the car over while I held it close to a header bolt, no spark. I had him turn it over again an there was spark an it started. I reinstalled plug wire an had him start it again an it fired right off. This time I left it running to check for more leaks. I turned it on an off about 4 times just to make sure it would start again an it started fine. The fifth time however it didn't start so I chased down all the wires to make sure they where making good connection. An they seemed to be in good order. Tried to start again but no luck. I removed dist cap an thing look ok but the center button didn't look like it sticks out as far as I remember. I reinstalled cap an put coil wire back on an tried again it started up. So I drove it back in the garbage. I turned it on an off a couple of times an then no start again. The only thing I haven't changed is the cap, rotor, an the dist coil thing under the dist cap. I did install the wabro pump an return line also, the press gauge says 5.5 an with filter off carb when I throttle it back it sprays gas down carb. Sorry so long I was just trying to give enough details to what's going on with the car. Thanks
 
Swap the cap rotor and check ballast resistor connections. Have spark then don't have spark, has to be somewhere. Work from the distributor back to the bulkhead. As mentioned, check the ground on the chrome box. Mopar engine wiring is pretty simple. Is the distributor cap on properly, sitting down all the way? If it fires right up then won't start, something isn't connected tight/right. My car seems to make me find the loose connections every spring when I pull it out of the garage.
 
LocuMob said:
Swap the cap rotor and check ballast resistor connections. Have spark then don't have spark, has to be somewhere. Work from the distributor back to the bulkhead. As mentioned, check the ground on the chrome box. Mopar engine wiring is pretty simple. Is the distributor cap on properly, sitting down all the way? If it fires right up then won't start, something isn't connected tight/right. My car seems to make me find the loose connections every spring when I pull it out of the garage.
Click to expand...
It sure seems like something is lose I just haven't found it yet. I have pulled all bolts that attach component an sanded clean an reinstalled an also added ground wires to chrome box. Thanks for the input, I hope to find it the weathers getting to nice to let it sit in the garage.
 
check ground strap from motor to frame if ground is bad or loose will pull all spark from coil,tim
 
slowdown said:
It sure seems like something is lose I just haven't found it yet. I have pulled all bolts that attach component an sanded clean an reinstalled an also added ground wires to chrome box. Thanks for the input, I hope to find it the weathers getting to nice to let it sit in the garage.
Click to expand...

bare metel under the box is manditory.it must be grounded good
 
I found this link to mopar ignition , very good info:

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3424.0

Sounds like something is breaking down with heat. Also pull the coil wire to make sure you have lost spark right out of the coil too, not just at the plugs. That way you can rule out something on the secondary side of the distributor, cap or rotor.

Make sure the gap of the pick -up in the distributor is set correctly with non metallic feeler gauge.

You can also add heat with a heat gun to ignition parts to see if they get affected.
 
Similar starting issues could be caused by the carb dumping fuel after shut off..

Repeated immediate restarts wouldn't give it time to flood,, but going into a store and coming out,, would be enuff time..

At running temp,, remove the top of the air-filter,, shut off engine,, and watch down the throat of carb for fuel dripping ...

Does your oil smell like gas.?.... jmo

hope it helps..
 
Thanks for all the help. I had to work on my daughters neon this last weekend an didn't have time to mess with my old car. I did go in the garage tonight after work an install a new rotor an cap. She fired right off an ran fine, but my fan set up I ordered was sent with only one relay an the directions say it will work with a double fan if amp are not exceeded on relay. Or thats what the guy from summit said, long story short I need another relay. But when I shut it off no start again. But this time just a click when I turn the key. I am pretty sure that's a ground problem, but I've had the negative cable on an off while wiring an checking fans I may not have got my cable back on good enough. I hope to get back in the garage this weekend an find the problem. Thanks again.
 
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