differences in K-members

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moparman111

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Hi everyone. Even though I am a diehard Mopar lover I am very new to the A-body world. I have a factory 273/4spd 67 Barracuda that I have started disassembly to have body/paint done. I have been buying up goodies to do a 440 swap. The person doing the body/paint has to drop the K-member to put on his jig. While we were discussing my project he stated I should try and find a BB A-body K-member to put back. I have already bought a Shumacher mount/strap kit and TTI headers. The problem is I have no idea what I am looking for. I have seen pics of a DC (spool type) K-member as well as video's of people turning 6cl/SB members into BB members. Without knowing what I am buying I could be buying a 6cyl or SB K-member that also has spool mounts. If people don't mind can you tell me your opinion on whether I should just keep my factory member and use the Shumacher setup or should I search for a DC member and then find later C-body motor mounts? Which will give me a better fitment? Also can people please tell me how to tell a DC K-member from a cutup member? As always I value and respect your helpful information, Thank you


Robert
 
as far as the DC K-member, you will probably pay through the nose for one IF you can find one at all. I did mine a few months ago. I got a spool mount k-frame from a 73-76 (small block) and made my own. If I had to to do over again, I think it would have been cheaper and less work to buy the schumacher mounts and leave the k-member in the car but, while I had it out, I welded all the seams and put gussets in to stiffen it up (you can but a firm feel kit that has all pre-cut gussets if you want). I also put the stiffening plates on the bottom of the LCA's.
 
Building a DC k-member is the cheapest solution IF you can do the welding. Otherwise Schumacher is about the same price, BUT I would never use the Schumacher mounts for a spool V8 k-member.
 
Jim is the a plan,blueprint or design that you offer so I can build my own.i almost pulled the trigger on the last one you had for sale but after shipping I would of had over 600 bucks in it.i decided a new miller 211 was more important
 
Jim Lusk said:
Building a DC k-member is the cheapest solution IF you can do the welding. Otherwise Schumacher is about the same price, BUT I would never use the Schumacher mounts for a spool V8 k-member.
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Why, Jim? I had a spool V8 K member and used Schumacher spool mounts for a 360. Are their BB spool mounts inferior or poorly made?

Either way, the OP should ditch the 1967 K member and at least upgrade to a 68-72 version. The 67 only idler arm mount isn't as robust as the later design.
Personally, I'd look for either a 68-72 slanty or regular V8 unit. Weld all seams. Add gussets around the steering box mounting brackets. Use conversion mounts from Shumacher or an equivalent. The 68-72 units are simpler for BB engine mounts.
BTW, the K member welding mods are beneficial for a car that will be used for extensive street use, cornering, etc. A drag racer may never see the benefit of it.
 
Kern Dog said:
................the OP should ditch the 1967 K member and at least upgrade to a 68-72 version. The 67 only idler arm mount isn't as robust as the later design.
.
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If you can do any fab / welding at all, or have a friend that does, it's easy to convert a 67 to a 68--72 idler. I didn't because I ended up with a 73/ 74 spool V8K
 
Sounds like I may just use what I have with the Shumacher kit. I don't want to mess with changing the idler by switching the K with a newer version. I may end up welding in the $75 firm feel kit to add strength. If I come across a spool type for sale that's already setup for a BB I may do it but for now I will keep the factory piece. Thank you to everyone for your helpful advice.

Robert
 
moparman111 said:
Sounds like I may just use what I have with the Shumacher kit. I don't want to mess with changing the idler by switching the K with a newer version. I may end up welding in the $75 firm feel kit to add strength. If I come across a spool type for sale that's already setup for a BB I may do it but for now I will keep the factory piece. Thank you to everyone for your helpful advice.

Robert
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You can improve the idler by modding your K. This is an easy fix. And it will save you a bunch of money on idler arms, plus if you ever need to go with a "big spline" steering box, you can use the later 73 and up center link and idler.

All you need to do is fit one more drilled tab to the idler mount

Doing this mod essentially turns your K into a 68--72 and you can use any steering combo, early or late
 
The V8 spool mount k-member Schumacher mounts require that you shorten the driver side saddle by some amount and drill a new horizontal hole making installing the motor more difficult than just dropping the main bolt in a slot. Sure you can slot the saddle, but then you lose the lip that keeps the bolt captive if it loosens.

My opinion is that if you have to modify the k-member the DC mod is a much better solution.
 
Jim I am still a little confused.
First, If I am lucky enough to find a DC (spool type) K will I have to do any mods to my steering setup that is currently on my car? I thought it would be a simple swap to go from my small block K to the DC K.
Second, if I do find a DC (spool type) K cant I just use a factory spool type mount? One that would be on a mid 70's C-body BB car? I am getting confused by members stating to stay away from the Schumacher spool mounts if I do the K swap.
 
The DC k-member (original or home-built) will take any steering component from any other 67-76 A-body except the 67 idler arm. The DC k-member uses the 74-78 passenger car big block motor mount. Last time I looked for them on E-bay there were quite a few sets.
 
I guess not knowing the difference from a 67 and 68/up idler arm I am at a stand still. I don't understand what you mean when you say " the DC K will take any steering component from any other 67-76 A-body except the 67 idler arm". Do you mean the 67 steering arm will not be a direct bolt on to a DC K? If so will I be able to change the idler arm to a 68 and use the DC k?
 
I believe your set-up uses the biscuit type mounts. My 71 Demon had them and I bought the conversion mounts from Schumacher along with their adjustable torque rod. Motor and tranny slipped right into place after notching the left mount as per schumachers instructions which come with the mounts. I used spool mounts years ago with another build and am now glad I stayed with the biscuit style. 2" TTI's also went in easy with this setup. If I were you I would just buy the conversion mounts that match the K member that's in the car.

Kenny B
 

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Kenny I am in luck than because I already bought the Shumacher mounts and torque strap kit. Plus a set of 1 3/4 TTI headers.

Kenny I have to say I believe you are the first person I have talked to that preferred the biscuit style mounts. Being the motor I am installing in this Barracuda is a bit more than stock I thought the spool mounts were a bit stronger. Thanks to everyone for their helpful info:)
 
I have what I am almost sure to be 2 original big block k members and have no idea what to ask for them, any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
steves69 said:
I have what I am almost sure to be 2 original big block k members and have no idea what to ask for them, any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Like anything else... it's market demand. If it's in good shape.... 400 give or take depending on condition. I've seen as high as 500 go on fleebay.

so answer to your question....what ever someone wants to pay for it.
 
These are big block a body k members, correct? Thanks for all your help.
 

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