Dissapointing performance

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Isn't that advance to quick. To be all in by 2200 seems fast to me for a street car.
My car is like yours,but you have better heads, but mine doesn't fully advance till 3400 rpm.
I got tip from expert who has raced Mopars from 1980 and he said put all in about 2200-2400. This is for performance settings and no vacuum advance.
 
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I understand its easy to call me liar if you dont want to admit that you were wrong.
 
I got tip from expert who has raced Mopars from 1980 and he said put all in about 2200-2400. This is for performance settings and no vacuum advance.

But your car isn't a performance car, every 318 2 barrel Duster I've owned could do burnouts and they weren't "performance" cars. Your car can't even do that.
 
Lustle Wrote
Read Cudafevers post. He goes into some detail about it (excellent post btw cudafever).

Thanks Lustle. I'm not the most articulate person, but i try.

Lustle Wrote
More than I think you can/are willing to understand. And more than I am willing to try and explain to you. I could sit you down for 8 hours and go into extreme detail about exhaust/scavenging/cam overlap/quench/combustion burn rates/timing and its affect on exhaust/exhaust temperature indications/dual vs single pattern cams and their exhaust impact/etc/etc/etc. And still not give you 1/4 of the education you need.

Sign me up! I'M ALL EARS!!!!!

Dusterguy
Do you know why you have 2 ears, and only one mouth?.................

Because you have to absorb twice as much info before you can speak HALF OF IT!
Yes I have been guilty of this problem, as well! :mad::BangHead: :D
 
I understand its easy to call me liar if you dont want to admit that you were wrong.

First I would have to be wrong... You lied about your headers, that's already been proven.

A bunch of members have said the same things I have, are we all liars???

Like I stated earlier. "we can explain it to you but we can't understand it for you."
 
OK guys. Quit beating a dead horse. We're 17 pages into this discussion and no further ahead than we were on page 1. Please move along.
 
T-N-T Thank!
A little Tull to go with my coffee while reading this thread. Perfect!:D
 
But your car isn't a performance car, every 318 2 barrel Duster I've owned could do burnouts and they weren't "performance" cars. Your car can't even do that.
Yes it can now after I tuned the distributor. Do you read all post that I write here?
 
If you drive your car on the street at all you need a vacuum advance.
If your car is used from idle to full throttle only, as in race car, then a vacuum advance isn't needed.
 
Yes it can now after I tuned the distributor. Do you read all post that I write here?

I have, and even though you were told you are throwing you money a way buying a converter! it will help that cam work like it's supposed to.
It's all about matching part, to make a good package(good running eng.) if you are determined to use your current cam, you need a better converter.

They say you're throwing your money a way because you need to fix the simple low cost things first, like you carburator....Ya i know Bla, Bla, Bla......So a converter is a good step.(until you find out just how much a good quality one cost ! LOL
 
First I would have to be wrong... You lied about your headers, that's already been proven.

A bunch of members have said the same things I have, are we all liars???

Like I stated earlier. "we can explain it to you but we can't understand it for you."
I told that headers output is 2" and that collector is 2.5" from beginning of collector and taper fast to 2.0" Do I need to draw picture of it? I firstly said that output 2" because it the smallest diameter part and therefore first that become in restriction.
 
If you drive your car on the street at all you need a vacuum advance.
If your car is used from idle to full throttle only, as in race car, then a vacuum advance isn't needed.
I agree. I once tried to look where to find vacuum canister than gives less advange than normal unit, but I have not found them. Do you know where to get them? It also needs to be adjustable on what vacuum level it works. Not all canister have this option. (screw inside of vacuum hose nipple)
 
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I have, and even though you were told you are throwing you money a way buying a converter! it will help that cam work like it's supposed to.
It's all about matching part, to make a good package(good running eng.) if you are determined to use your current cam, you need a better converter.

They say you're throwing your money a way because you need to fix the simple low cost things first, like you carburator....Ya i know Bla, Bla, Bla......So a converter is a good step.(until you find out just how much a good quality one cost ! LOL
Doesn it really matter what part you install first? In winter when there is 10 feet of snow car sits in garage 6 months, then I update the new parts tc,exhaust,carb at least. It takes 2 moths to get that tc from usa to here. In this summer I only drive this car and when winter comes, then I install these new parts.
 
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Doesn it really matter what part you install first? In winter when there is 10 feet of snow car sits on garage 6 months, then I update the new parts tc,exhaust,carb at least. I takes 2 moths to get that tc from usa to here. In this summer I only drive this car and when winter comes, then I install these new parts.
I understand but you don't need a new carb, you need to tune what you have. and you can do that in the summer.
 
I understand but you don't need a new carb, you need to tune what you have. and you can do that in the summer.
Please tell me more. What tuning are you talking about exactly? I have already tried different max ignition advange and there isnt more power to be found anymore.
 
Please tell me more. What tuning are you talking about exactly? I have already tried different max ignition advange and there isnt more power to be found anymore.
Hmm OK i will try.
What carb do you have on it now.
 
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