Dissapointing performance

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I'm not an expert on setting up advance curves myself. I sent my distributor to Don at FBO and he set it up for me.
He replaced the vacuum canister and set the limits on the mechanical advance.
Mine for example is set at 16* initial and 18* at 3400 rpm. The vac canister is 14* at 14 inches of vacuum.
 
bobscuda67 said:
I'm not an expert on setting up advance curves myself. I sent my distributor to Don at FBO and he set it up for me.
He replaced the vacuum canister and set the limits on the mechanical advance.
Mine for example is set at 16* initial and 18* at 3400 rpm. The vac canister is 14* at 14 inches of vacuum.
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Do you know how he limits the amount of vacuum advance? Does he used some kind of stopper in canister arm?

edit: Sorry I misreaded your post. He putted limits on mechanical advance.
 
Dusterguy said:
As told in first post : 600 edelbrock vacuum secondaries
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AVS or AFB being a 600 i would guess AVS.
go out and turn you air fuel mixture screws all the way in(counting the turns) and then back out to where they were. the screws in the front of the carb. count the turns on both the left and right side.
Now turn your idle screw in until it just comes off of its seat. count how many turns it took and then return it back to where you had it.
Let me know how many turn of all three screws.
 
Cudafever said:
AVS or AFB being a 600 i would guess AVS.
go out and turn you air fuel mixture screws all the way in(counting the turns) and then back out to where they were. the screws in the front of the carb. count the turns on both the left and right side.
Now turn your idle screw in until it just comes off of its seat. count how many turns it took and then return it back to where you had it.
Let me know how many turn of all three screws.
Click to expand...
Carb is 1405 Edelbrock
Like this
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/carburetors/sb/1404.jpg
It has 2 idle fuel srews that are now 2.5 turns out. I setted it way that I turned them to close until car start to run slightly bad and still have maximum vacuum at intake manifold. So its slightly on the lean side. As we all know this effects only for idle and very slow speed driving. When comes to cruising speed then who knows what the fuel mixture is. (dont start to talk about plugs)
 
I'll bet the transfer slot ports are open to much and he has no idle control with the mixture screws.
 
And also I have drilled small holes in flaps because car was earlier idling trought transfer slots. I dont need to turn idle speed screw much to get 900rpm idle speed. How ever I dont remember how many turns I turned it, but not much
 
Cudafever said:
AVS or AFB being a 600 i would guess AVS.
go out and turn you air fuel mixture screws all the way in(counting the turns) and then back out to where they were. the screws in the front of the carb. count the turns on both the left and right side.
Now turn your idle screw in until it just comes off of its seat. count how many turns it took and then return it back to where you had it.
Let me know how many turn of all three screws.
Click to expand...
this should be fun ! I spent 25 years tuning carters, can be difficult with cam and manifold combinations. I switched to holley and never looked back , easier.
 
Oh, ok you drilled the throttle blades. How much of the transfer slot is exposed at idle? Should look like a square.
My 340 has a 650 Edelbrock and I had to drill a pretty good size hole to get the transfer slot to look square.
 
Dusterguy said:
And also I have drilled small holes in flaps because car was earlier idling trought transfer slots. I dont need to turn idle speed screw much to get 900rpm idle speed. How ever I dont remember how many turns I turned it, but not much
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Ok Dusterguy stay focused, put your computer down and go find out for sure. If you can't do this simple step, i can not help you............................
 
bobscuda67 said:
Oh, ok you drilled the throttle blades. How much of the transfer slot is exposed at idle? Should look like a square.
My 340 has a 650 Edelbrock and I had to drill a pretty good size hole to get the transfer slot to look square.
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They look square that I remember. I have fully control on idle fuel screws and I can turn engine off by closing them.
 
Cudafever said:
Ok Dusterguy stay focused, put your computer down and go find out for sure. If you can't do this simple step, i can not help you............................
Click to expand...
Im drinking beer now. Lets see tomorrow I can measure it if you like. But like I said I have drilled flaps already and I have full control in idle fuel screws.
 
Last edited:
WOW DISAGREE WITH MY PREVIOUS POST AND THEN ASSUME IN YOUR NEXT POST!
DO YOU KNOW WHAT "ASSUME" MEANS!

I can't believe we try so hard to help someone that won't try at all!
 
Cudafever said:
WOW DISAGREE WITH MY PREVIOUS POST AND THEN ASSUME IN YOUR NEXT POST!
DO YOU KNOW WHAT "ASSUME" MEANS!

I can't believe we try so hard to help someone that won't try at all!
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I dont really see what is the problem here?? I told that fuel screws are 2.5 turn out and I dont know how is the idle speed screws. Im not in near of my car now, I can look into it tomorrow. You need to wait until im check how is the idle speed screw setted.
 
don't look on the internet to find out how many turns is too much, I already know.
 
Cudafever said:
WOW DISAGREE WITH MY PREVIOUS POST AND THEN ASSUME IN YOUR NEXT POST!
DO YOU KNOW WHAT "ASSUME" MEANS!

I can't believe we try so hard to help someone that won't try at all!
Click to expand...
Answer.
When you ASSUME you make a *** out of YOU (U) and ME......***,U,ME........
 
The idle screws should be 1 1/2 turns out from the seat,give or take a 1/4 turn and there should be about .040 of the transfer slot showing.
Set your carb to these settings and it should idle. If not than you have to address the problem.
As others have said, the exhaust is way too restrictive and the carb is too small. The cam is too big and the gear is wrong. I know those are the winter projects, but they will make a huge difference.
 
Dusterguy said:
And gears or converter doesnt change engine power. Like I said 1/8 mile speed tells that car has no power more than before. Something isnt right.
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That is correct. But sure as heck changes the mechanical torque at the consequence of Rpms. If you put a 6.18 rear gear in a slant six it would really do a fantastic burnout on 120 hp.
 
Mopar92 said:
That is correct. But sure as heck changes the mechanical torque at the consequence of Rpms. If you put a 6.18 rear gear in a slant six it would really do a fantastic burnout on 120 hp.
Click to expand...
That is correct. Burnouts is just a fun thing to do sometimes, but I newer choose parts to engine or anywhere to trying to make burnouts better. Sure when you have high hp/high torque engine, then more easily you can do burnouts. And if you cant do even burnout, then there is probably too less power or something is wrong.
 
bobscuda67 said:
The idle screws should be 1 1/2 turns out from the seat,give or take a 1/4 turn and there should be about .040 of the transfer slot showing.
Set your carb to these settings and it should idle. If not than you have to address the problem.
As others have said, the exhaust is way too restrictive and the carb is too small. The cam is too big and the gear is wrong. I know those are the winter projects, but they will make a huge difference.
Click to expand...
Lets see tomorrow how screw is setted. Yes I have admitted many times that those parts is restricting this engine power.
 
Is there any dyno nearby that you can take this thing to? At least get a baseline of what you're getting at the rear wheels with your junk now; badly tuned or otherwise.

Besides following all the endless good advice in this thread, that dyno report would give you a visual graph of the engine's power (or lack of it), indicating any lack of power in a particular RPM range where it falls off.

If you want to approach this as a science and not take any words for granted, measuring horsepower by butt dyno and torque by burnout is not good enough here.

-Kurt
 
cudak888 said:
Is there any dyno nearby that you can take this thing to? At least get a baseline of what you're getting at the rear wheels with your junk now; badly tuned or otherwise.

Besides following all the endless good advice in this thread, that dyno report would give you a visual graph of the engine's power (or lack of it), indicating any lack of power in a particular RPM range where it falls off.

If you want to approach this as a science and not take any words for granted, measuring horsepower by butt dyno and torque by burnout is not good enough here.

-Kurt
Click to expand...
have you read all posts what ive been written here?
 
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