DIY Rotor Turning??

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jonn6464

jonn6464

1970 Duster
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
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Location
Weatherford, TX
Can I DIY turning my rotors with this?
IMG_20211007_120525207.jpg


I have 36, 60, 80 grit that can be used.

Is it necessary to have them turned at a shop and get the small grooves in the rotor?

Thank you
 
No. You can buff your rotors with that.
 
if you do alot of em there should be plenty AAmco brake lathes on CL no one cuts rotors anymore they are throwaways..
 
Brake lathes do come up every now and then, but they are PRICEY.

About 10-15 years ago, they were cheap.

The best deal I've seen in 5 years was $450 but it was a 3 hour one way drive so I passed.

I could have had one for $75 in 2002, but had no where to put it.
 
The other concern with buying a brake lathe cheap, is "what does it need for repair or service, to be right?" is the arbor straight? What shape are the threaded axis' the machine uses to move either the drums or the cutting tool assembly for the rotors? What does all this cost vs take them in for machining or replacing? At the OP, a lathe must be used to get the braking surfaces true, as mentioned above. Your tool would be good for rust removal, and with a low/medium grit, to put a non-directional finish on them; but you can quickly do more harm than good.
 
If the grooves aren't deep, and the rotor has no significant run-out, slap some new pads on and call it a day. After a dozen long stops, the pads will be seated in and the rust gone.
 
I bought my brake lathe for $200. It was cheap. But it works.

to the op, rotors are cut with cutters on each face at the same time, to maintain equal thickness .
 
Use 120 or finer to clean the glaze from the rotor. Best done with the rotor revolving to get a more even surface.
Only if the rotor is within specs, no excessive runout, deep grooves or metal to metal damage.
Before installing new pads clean the rotor surface as clean as you can.
I clean the rotors with soap and water in a large drip pan and rinse with clean water and blow dry.
After installing back on the car use some Brake clean to get any grease or handprints off before you install the pads.
Contamination is a major cause of brake noise with new brakes
Don't put any goop on the back of the pads. Use new brake shims. The factory never used anything on the back of the pads, why use them now.
Everything being clean is the key.
 
Lathe is cheap. The tooling is expensive. I have 1800.00 in my Amco 4000 with the new tooling I bought.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Lathe is cheap. The tooling is expensive. I have 1800.00 in my Amco 4000 with the new tooling I bought.
Click to expand...

I guess I'm lucky. I have a "parts" Ammco which is drum only (no disc gearbox) and a "working one" that won't stay in gear, I have to hold it in. But I have a lot of cones and the big cups, as well as the small tapered shaft for stuff like the old VW tapered drums etc. I have maybe 500 in the whole mess. Don't use it much

I'd be happy to turn some, but shipping is a killer

There are rotor lathes for "on the car" but I've never understood how they could be precision enough, with any play in the wheel bearings
 
Adjust or replace the bad bearings. Not hard and should be done. Used mainly for front wheel drive with hub type rotors. adapters for the rest.
 
MoparLeo said:
Adjust or replace the bad bearings. Not hard and should be done. Used mainly for front wheel drive with hub type rotors. adapters for the rest.
Click to expand...
............But most (all?) front wheel drive bearings don't adjust, and if you remove them at all there is no reason to use "on the car" lathes LOL.........
 
The original posting was about rotors on, and I am just assuming because of the OPs Avitar that it was a 1970 Duster.
You made the remark about loose bearings. I assume your old Mopar is a rear wheel drive.
The on the car lathes were designed in the front wheel drive era and can also be used on rear wheel drive vehicles with the correct adapters.
As with any other tool, it takes someone who knows the proper way to use it for it to be useful.
 
MoparLeo said:
The original posting was about rotors on, and I am just assuming because of the OPs Avitar that it was a 1970 Duster.
You made the remark about loose bearings. I assume your old Mopar is a rear wheel drive.
The on the car lathes were designed in the front wheel drive era and can also be used on rear wheel drive vehicles with the correct adapters.
As with any other tool, it takes someone who knows the proper way to use it for it to be useful.
Click to expand...
No the loose bearings remark was PARTICULARLY about FRONT wheel drives, so the only way to "fix" that is to remove and replace the bearing. You are making assumptions and I don't need destructions on "using tools" In my lifetime I've turned hundreds of drums and rotors.
 
The wheel bearings have no real effect on the on car brake lathe. The spindle bearings in the lathe hold the cutters true to the flange. You bolt on to the wheel studs and the machine is trued to the hub. On car lathe compensates for a warped hub flange.
 
Since the Op did not mention the car, I have to ask. Have you looked into the cost of new rotors? I never have rotors turned anymore. I like the secure feeling of knowing I have new parts. To each their own.
 
harrisonm said:
Since the Op did not mention the car, I have to ask. Have you looked into the cost of new rotors? I never have rotors turned anymore. I like the secure feeling of knowing I have new parts. To each their own.
Click to expand...
Vehicle is a 1975 Trailduster. I priced new rotors at $120 for the set vs. $40 to get them turned.

In the end, I did order new rotors. And wheel bearings. And wheel seals. And calipers. And brake pads. And brake hoses.

So, once again, my budget minded restoration is going out the window!
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Lathe is cheap. The tooling is expensive. I have 1800.00 in my Amco 4000 with the new tooling I bought.
Click to expand...
The 4000 is the one I want. They can do it all pretty much.
 
jonn6464 said:
Vehicle is a 1975 Trailduster. I priced new rotors at $120 for the set vs. $40 to get them turned.

In the end, I did order new rotors. And wheel bearings. And wheel seals. And calipers. And brake pads. And brake hoses.

So, once again, my budget minded restoration is going out the window!
Click to expand...

LOL, LMAO. I think we have all done that.
Wife: "How much is this restoration going to cost?"
Husband: "Maybe 5-10 thousand."
Wife: "That is a lot of money."
Husband: "But it will be spread out over at least 3 or 4 years, honey."
5 years and $20K later the car is done. BUT IT IS NICE!
 
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