My bracket is different than the above post but does the same job. A bit overkill.Adjustable. Got it at Mancini Racing.
Don’t even know where to begin
- Thread starter kyvet
- Start date
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kyvet
Active Member
Got the carb just mocked up with the adapter but it’s still not spaced properly, will I need a new throttle cable or can i modify this one to work? I haven’t started it up yet
You should be able to use the O.E. bracket that attaches to the intake manifold bolts (Like the first photo.)
Even tho the throttle cable was mounted wrong being mounted to the cable housing and not to the ferrel end of the cable.
Look at post #14 to see what I mean.
As far as the Lokar kick down cable bracket you should be able to reuse it but needs to be relocated lower.(post #26)
Maybe make a mount and attach it to the O.E. bracket.Give it some adjustment room so that the cable has full (at the transmission)stop at wide open throttle.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Isn’t there some sort of spacer/adapter required when putting an Ede carb on the spread bore intake?
Since it had a q-jet on it, I’m assuming it’s a spread bore manifold.
Or is there a spacer in place that I’m just not seeing?
Since it had a q-jet on it, I’m assuming it’s a spread bore manifold.
Or is there a spacer in place that I’m just not seeing?
kyvet
Active Member
spread more spacer? Does it make a difference? Im just running the gasket that came with it right on the manifold
PRH
Well-Known Member
The throttle blades are likely going to have clearance issues without the spacer.
With the carb bolted down, see if the throttle operates freely.
This is how it’s normally done:
Edelbrock 2696 Edelbrock Carburetor Adapters | Summit Racing
Again, this assumes your intake is a spread bore unit.
With the carb bolted down, see if the throttle operates freely.
This is how it’s normally done:
Edelbrock 2696 Edelbrock Carburetor Adapters | Summit Racing
Again, this assumes your intake is a spread bore unit.
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kyvet
Active Member
Progress I had today. Still not liking the placement of throttle cable and kickdown. Haven’t driven it. I’ll have to order a new kickdown…. Way too short for my liking and no adjustability.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
kickdown cable is still in the wrong location..
if the cable is routed correctly it will pull the leaver on the trans back towards the rear of the car.. where you have the cable on the carb it will try to push the cable towards the front of the car if the cable is routed correctly.
if the cable is routed correctly it will pull the leaver on the trans back towards the rear of the car.. where you have the cable on the carb it will try to push the cable towards the front of the car if the cable is routed correctly.
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abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
lower cable is the kickdown..
what your bracket should look like.. the lower hole is kickdown...
their install instructions... https://lokar.com/media/instructions/INS0046-ChryslerKickdown.pdf
.
what your bracket should look like.. the lower hole is kickdown...
their install instructions... https://lokar.com/media/instructions/INS0046-ChryslerKickdown.pdf
.
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
I believe the kickdown and throttle cables should be both on the upper pin. One inside and the other on the outside. Your kickdown is operating in reverse.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I think it’s worth crawling under the car and making sure the kick down cable is correctly set up down at the trans.
The factory set up uses linkage that “pushes” the kick down lever rearward down at the trans.
The lokar cable comes in from the rear and “pulls” the lever rearward.
Up by the carb, the factory linkage will attach above the throttle shaft……the lokar cable attaches below the shaft.
This pic in post 25 has the lokar set up correctly.
Throttle attached above the shaft, kick down below shaft:
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abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
on a lokar kit you would be wrong.
on a stock set up with a cable for the throttle and rod or rods for kickdown the way you mention is correct.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
Nobody on page one has mentioned the carb is twisted on the manifold like a carb mounts to an Edelbrock Torker intake.
But this is obviously a dual plane intake. Carb sitting ****-eyed maybe confused the modificator, if he wasn't experienced enough.
What intakes other than a Torker have skewed mounts? It looks iron with all the casting #s.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
the latest picture the carb looks straight. either way the cable is in the wrong location which is the actual problem..
340six
King Of Bling
Eldebrock includes a very thin one from stamped metal so hight is not changed. As the normal ones are half an inch or better think and may mess up hood clearances on some applications.
Advance, and others has them
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
Might find one on eBay Amazon as are sold separately.
2 gaskets used to seal square bore to spread if he swaps to a 4160-4150 Holley or AVS/AFB
kyvet
Active Member
Okay, so I haven’t been able to work on the car for a bit but here’s what I’ve done,
1. I got an adapter/spacer and new gaskets for carb/manifold.
2. I took off the edelbrook 1421 and I’m just running both the throttle cable and the kickdown cable on the carb attached.
3. I moved the kickdown cable so it is under the throttle cable and I attached the bracket for the kickdown on those and they are held in place. I will attach a pic of what the set up is below.
4. I noticed that with the 1421 bracket I could not get the throttle linkage to line up with the ball stud and it was at an awful angle, that is why I took it off.
I’ve adjusted the kickdown linkage to the point where is operable but I still not have driven the car other than backing it up outta the garage and pulling it forward into the garage.
1. I got an adapter/spacer and new gaskets for carb/manifold.
2. I took off the edelbrook 1421 and I’m just running both the throttle cable and the kickdown cable on the carb attached.
3. I moved the kickdown cable so it is under the throttle cable and I attached the bracket for the kickdown on those and they are held in place. I will attach a pic of what the set up is below.
4. I noticed that with the 1421 bracket I could not get the throttle linkage to line up with the ball stud and it was at an awful angle, that is why I took it off.
I’ve adjusted the kickdown linkage to the point where is operable but I still not have driven the car other than backing it up outta the garage and pulling it forward into the garage.
kyvet
Active Member
If anything, I will save for the lokar kit. I am sure This is just a universal kickdown and not a real lokar branded one, this one may be not even the correct application for this set up
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
i don't know what the hell that bracket is you have holding the throttle and kickdown cables.. so this is a knockoff cable? in my opinion at this point i'd just use an entire lokar set up and be done.. will be much less of a headache in the end. the knockoffs have a reputation of breaking..
kyvet
Active Member
Yeah you’re right, I’m gonna save for the whole kit and be done with the headache, just sucks because I’m running out of time
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Dont the Torqueflight transmissions blow up real fast if that kickdown isnt set right?
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
it sure doesn't help things thats for sure.
kyvet
Active Member
I’m not sure. Someone will say otherwise. I’m not risking any damage, and who knows the car might have other issues with the transmission, I got the car really cheap knowing that some of it was cobbled together. Just gonna have to start chasing all of them down one piece at a time
kyvet
Active Member
Thank for all the help guys. I’ll report back once I talk to lokar and get what I need to get this all done right
PRH
Well-Known Member
While it doesn’t look great, fundamentally……the way it’s set up in the last pic, it appears as though it would function okay.
My two concerns would be whether or not the kickdown cable was adjusted properly, and if that flimsy looking bracket holding the kickdown cable is rigid enough.
Although, It’s probably worthy of a trip around the block to see how it runs and shifts.
My two concerns would be whether or not the kickdown cable was adjusted properly, and if that flimsy looking bracket holding the kickdown cable is rigid enough.
Although, It’s probably worthy of a trip around the block to see how it runs and shifts.
If the slack is out of both cables
mounting is solid
full range from throttle pedal opening blades
Should be good to go.
mounting is solid
full range from throttle pedal opening blades
Should be good to go.
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