dont want to start a fight

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denied88

denied88

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hey guys im just looking for some suggestions on break in oil for my 340 any ideas would be appreciated i dont want to start a big argument but im getting ready to fire up this car for the first time again after a bad blow up last year and would rather not do it again any ideas would be great nothing crazy done to the motor so pretty much stock
 
VR-1 10w-30. All the zinc u need. breakin and after. However, you'll get 30 suggestions and all will be right. many ways to skin this cat
 
318willrun said:
VR-1 10w-30. All the zinc u need. breakin and after. However, you'll get 30 suggestions and all will be right. many ways to skin this cat
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yeah i know i got that impression from old posts but really just dont want to have to do the rebuild again **** is getting expensive only had 1000 miles or so on the last one but thats what i get for not doing the top and bottom at the same time
 
denied88 said:
yeah i know i got that impression from old posts but really just dont want to have to do the rebuild again **** is getting expensive only had 1000 miles or so on the last one but thats what i get for not doing the top and bottom at the same time
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been doing this over 30 years never lost a motor or cam. Maxx ZZDP additive to oil, VR-1, whatever I've used, it's always worked
 
denied88 said:
thanks for the info i appreciate it
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get it to fire, then keep the RPM's between 2000 - 2800 rpms for 20 minutes. Make sure you have the cooling in order. Don't overheat it, shut it off first, then continue with the cam break-in. have a friend or 2 there. I break 'em in with just me and my wife.
 
I understand not wanting to start an argument and I'm not going add any fuel to the fire , sooooo I won't tell you to use Brad Penn 30W break in oil no sir not me .
 
Remember this. Cam break in is only making sure the lifters spin in the bores when the lobe comes around. Many say it is for other reasons such as hardening it is not. The cam lube is to prevent premature wear until they start spinning free in case they don't due to little offset between the cam lobe and lifters.

The biggest mistake made when building a motor is putting the cam lube or assembly lube on the sides of the lifter and let the motor sit. lifter bores and lifter sides should have a coat of thin oil only to keep them loose and free. As long as the bearing clearance is good and the lifters spin free you should be good to go no matter what thin oil is used. 2000 and up RPM's for 20 min. gets hydraulics pumped up then spinning. Solids more forgiving. rollers no break in.

The tighter the motor and the less timing the more heat it makes. don't let it get hot! It will get tight until it gets some wear in it.
 
I'll tell you what I have used. 10-30 Lucas Hot Rod motor oil. Since I turn 63 today, I've done this for a while. High in Zinc. Oldmanmopar is right, I've seen a lot of people use Lubri Plate to assemble engines. Which is fine if you are going to fire it right up. Let it sit and it turns to glue!
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I'll tell you what I have used. 10-30 Lucas Hot Rod motor oil. Since I turn 63 today, I've done this for a while. High in Zinc. Oldmanmopar is right, I've seen a lot of people use Lubri Plate to assemble engines. Which is fine if you are going to fire it right up. Let it sit and it turns to glue!
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Lucas for me too....and they also sell a break-in oil....
HAPPY BIRTHDAY! !!!!


Jeff
 
Lots of good info here. Really, your choice of quality oil with zddp (zinc) is what you want. Brad Penn, Lucas, VR-1. All good choices.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I'll tell you what I have used. 10-30 Lucas Hot Rod motor oil. Since I turn 63 today, I've done this for a while. High in Zinc. Oldmanmopar is right, I've seen a lot of people use Lubri Plate to assemble engines. Which is fine if you are going to fire it right up. Let it sit and it turns to glue!
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY ROY HAVE A GREAT DAY ALL THE BEST GREG
 
:elmer:If you didn’t want to start a fight you should have just did a search. Its been answered over and over. Just sayin.
 
Lots of correct answers here regarding oils. Just make sure you put enough timing advance into that new motor at start up so it doesn't get hot! 65'
 
I used a specific break in oil then use joe Gibbs oil after that.

Figure bettercsafe then sorry.
 
How much zinc does it take to run a flat tappet cam with no problems, does any body know, how much zinc and other good stuff was in the old oil before roller cams?
 
brian6pac said:
How much zinc does it take to run a flat tappet cam with no problems, does any body know, how much zinc and other good stuff was in the old oil before roller cams?
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spring pressure makes a difference too. 1200 - 1400 zinc count is plenty. Zinc is a friend, but too much zinc is a horsepower robber.
 
All good advise here about break-in oils with more zinc. Don't be like me. I lost a cam in two motors. What I learned- use high zinc oils in flat tappet motors, and really do the 20-minute (fully) break-in. Street motors I build now are all roller cammed. More expensive but more piece of mind. Can even use cheap oil in an emergency.
 
hoosierdaddy said:
I understand not wanting to start an argument and I'm not going add any fuel to the fire , sooooo I won't tell you to use Brad Penn 30W break in oil no sir not me .
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LMAO!!!

That is what I used. However, no matter the oil, if it states break in oil and gas a high zinc level, your in a good place. Check around and compare if you like. The important thing is not to over heat and change the oil after cam break in and then a few times again there after. With a fresh oil filter.

I have never had a problem with this method.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
Used to be that Wolfs Head was the answer to this question, now I believe it's been covered above...Joe Gibbs, VR-1, Comp Cams, Brad Penn, all good choices!
 
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