Drag Race Advice Needed

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BHB4408

BHB4408

BHB4408
Joined
Aug 29, 2022
Messages
7
Reaction score
15
Location
Edgewood, WA
New to this site. I'm 60 years old and have had many Mopar's in my life. I drag raced through my 20's and 30's in a 1969 Dart that ran mid 11's. I also ran two other Dodge's that were a bit slower. Most recently, I Drag Raced an 11.8 second (best time) 2010 Camaro SS for the past four years and hated it, so I'm going back to what I love. I'm building a 1972 Dart Swinger. Narrowed rear end (mini tubs), SuperStock leave springs, Wilwood Disc Brakes, Full Cage, and 512 CI 440. My goal is low 11's and eventually make it into the 10's.

Unfortunately, I had a severe brain injury in 2014, and I struggle to research what I need to do now with my new project.

I need an experienced 'Big Block A-Body Drag Racer' to guide me on what Auto Transmission to buy (TCI 727? Other brand? Powerglide if I have to?), and what gears to run in the back (3.91, 4.30, 4.56?) in my 489 8.75.

Any help with my initial set up will be greatly appreciated.
 
At the risk of alienating yet another new member, here goes.
Sounds like a good plan for a guy 60 years old. I'm a little older and am making an effort to get back into it following retirement a few years ago.

To answer your specific question, yes a Torqueflite, and since I don't think Pat Blais is taking any new customers at this point, seems like A&A, Cope, or A-1 Trans just down the road on I-5 would be possibilities.

As for your rear axel and your power/ET goals, I question the choice of the 8 3/4" and think you would be a better off with a Strange Dana 60. I would lean toward around a 4.30 gear, though really not enough details about the weight of the car, tires or the motor. In any case, happy motoring and good luck.
 
BHB4408 said:
New to this site. I'm 60 years old and have had many Mopar's in my life. I drag raced through my 20's and 30's in a 1969 Dart that ran mid 11's. I also ran two other Dodge's that were a bit slower. Most recently, I Drag Raced an 11.8 second (best time) 2010 Camaro SS for the past four years and hated it, so I'm going back to what I love. I'm building a 1972 Dart Swinger. Narrowed rear end (mini tubs), SuperStock leave springs, Wilwood Disc Brakes, Full Cage, and 512 CI 440. My goal is low 11's and eventually make it into the 10's.

Unfortunately, I had a severe brain injury in 2014, and I struggle to research what I need to do now with my new project.

I need an experienced 'Big Block A-Body Drag Racer' to guide me on what Auto Transmission to buy (TCI 727? Other brand? Powerglide if I have to?), and what gears to run in the back (3.91, 4.30, 4.56?) in my 489 8.75.

Any help with my initial set up will be greatly appreciated.
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Call John at CRT "Cope Racing Transmissions". Tell him 318willrun sent ya. He builds 727's/904's, specializing in Mopars. Welcome to the site!
 
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318willrun said:
Call John at CRT "Cope Racing Transmissions". Tell him 318willrun sent ya. He builds 727's/904's, specializing in Mopars. Welcome to the site!
Click to expand...
I'm surprised with your budget minded build's your still not building your own automatics...
 
Welcome to FABO! :welcome:

You COULD go with a glide but then you'd need to buy the motor/trans adapter kit. Just an expense that is not needed with a 727. Plus with the 727 you get a lower 1st gear to get a heavier car moving. I'm not a big fan of TCI transmissions, but only from fellow racers that have had bad luck with them. Cope Racing Transmissions (CRT) is a great place for 727 parts but they are no longer making complete transmissions. If you go with a 727 make sure that the VB is low band apply, get a bolt in sprag, and MOST importantly install a billet high drum.
 
Welcome from another 60 year old still playing with toys! This is a great place to find the answers you seek. Lots of members here racing big blocks. Unfortunately, I'm not one of them but I'll be following along. Good luck on your build!
 
Welcome to FABO from NY! Sounds like a fun plan with that Swinger! Go get it!
 
Thank you for the replies; I'm starting with a 489 8.75 because that's what I have for now. I'll move to the Dana as soon as I can after I get it built. I won't use a Trans Break until I do. The car will end up at about 3,000 pounds with the 440 and everything I've done. The 440, when built, should have about 525+ HP. Just using ported 902/906 heads for now, so building the bottom end right, and can improve the top end when I get the chassis all set up.

So what I'm hearing helped with some decisions. I'll go with the 727, and use a quality Trans shop to set me up. I'll use a quality ratchet shifter with a reverse valve body, and I'll go with 4:30 gears to start. I'm having to relearn all this stuff, and appreciate all of your experience and guidance.

If anyone has advice on a shifter, slick size, torque converter stall level, and any other thoughts, it would be taken as gospel for me right now. Thank you,
 
I have run 4.56, 4.11, and 3.91s in my 440 62 savoy, and the car didn't care, it ran the same. As a result, I would lean toward 3.91s, especially with a 512.
727 (no brake. Agree, a brake with an 8 3/4 is pushing your luck), B&M pro ratchet, reverse manual body is what I use too. Good choice, in my opinion.
Not, however, a fan of TCI. It's not for nothing their nickname is Total Crap Inside.
With good cylinder heads (get the biggest/best you can afford for a 512) and your car weight, 10s should be no problem.
And you don't need the weight of a full cage til you are in the nines. Unless the cage is already there, I'd put in a 8-point bar.
For slicks, as big as will fit, and I'd shoot for 4500 stall. Get one from a Quality converter shop, but it won't be cheap. (A good custom converter for my application moved my car from mid 6.50s to low 6.30s, with a brake in a light car, however).
And I just turned 70, you've got lots of time to go fast yet.
 
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33IMP said:
I have run 4.56, 4.11, and 3.91s in my 440 62 savoy, and the car didn't care, it ran the same. As a result, I would lean toward 3.91s, especially with a 512.
727 (no brake. Agree, a brake with an 8 3/4 is pushing your luck), B&M pro ratchet, reverse manual body is what I use too. Good choice, in my opinion.
Not, however, a fan of TCI. It's not for nothing their nickname is Total Crap Inside.
With good cylinder heads (get the biggest/best you can afford for a 512) and your car weight, 10s should be no problem.
And you don't need the weight of a full cage til you are in the nines. Unless the cage is already there, I'd put in a 8-point bar.
For slicks, as big as will fit, and I'd shoot for 4500 stall. Get one from a Quality converter shop, but it won't be cheap. (A good custom converter for my application moved my car from mid 6.50s to low 6.30s, with a brake in a light car, however).
And I just turned 70, you've got lots of time to go fast yet.
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Thank you 33IMP; The 8 point simple roll cage has already been built, and I have good subframe connectors welded in. Maybe I jumped the gun a little. You are the third person with the same opinion on TCI. Nice to know. Cope is near me here, so I'll start with them. Glad you said the 727 is best. Nice to stay with Dodge throughout. I can fit 10.5" wide at 28.5 tall slicks. B&M Pro Ratchet is now on it's way, car is painted, and I'll freshen up the 3.91's I already have (thanks for that advice).

You're a very young 70. That's great to hear. I'm afraid I might not see 70. I had an artificial heart pump (LVAD) in 2013, and a transplant in 2016. I'm not overweight and was in good shape. Blot clot reached a bad spot in my heart. The anti-rejection drugs caused me to pass out, and I hit my head on the floor and cause a severe brain injury. Learned to talk and walk again, and was back to work in 2018. Very frustrating concentration and comprehension issues, so I appreciate FABO's help with my project. Life expectancy is 13 years, and I'm at year 6 already. But I'm praying for miracles, and loving the fun of building another car. Whenever the time comes, I'll go out swinging.
 
Tomorrow isn't promised to anyone, I admire you going for your dreams!!!! Welcome from the motor city.
 
Well, the glide with a brake worked good for me, primarily cause one of my cars was chevy powered, and very light. I would not bother trying to put a glide in 99% of the Mopar racers out there, short of a super gas car, or super comp dragster, there is no need, in my opinion. For 2800 lbs up, I believe they run better with three gears than two.
 
Heads up, if you're in Edgewood, it's not the Cope Bros Machine that we used to go to in Spanaway WA, it's Cope CRT in Indiana.
A-1 down I-5 in Vancouver is closest to us that does Super Stock/ Pro level work that I know of.
 
Welcome aboard. Sorry to learn of your malady. If you search the forum, you will find a race section. You will likely get more responses there. There are several excellent racers here who I'm sure will be glad to help.
 
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Have you considered building your own transmission??... Using the quality parts to hold the hp it's much more simple then most transmission shops will admit to rebuild them .
After I did my first one and drag raced it I almost shocked at how easy it was and also gratifying...
The 727 behind the 408 stroker in my power wagon is working flawless...
 
If you’re going to buy a trans, stick with a 727 and use Cope or A&A. The 512’s don’t need a crazy gear unless you run a really tall tire. If you’re using a 28” range tire I’d use a 4.10. with a Dana. Like mentioned a 3.91 would work well to if you run a 8.75. Not a fan of ratchet shifters myself. All 3 mopars out in the garage have cheetah scs shifters. The cable enters from the rear so it avoids the burnt cable bs. Also easy to use for a street car. Put the shifter in the gear you want. A properly built 512 will easily run 10’s in an “A” body on pump gas if you use the right heads and cam.
 
If your going to foot brake I would not go to disc brakes. Although they stop better (we’re not road racing anyways) they don’t hold better.
 
Welcome from Oregon!

I thought Cope stopped building full transmissions last year. If he's still doing it, get one of his 727s. I have a 904 from John in full race trim with a Transbrake and it's amazing.
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
If you’re going to buy a trans, stick with a 727 and use Cope or A&A. The 512’s don’t need a crazy gear unless you run a really tall tire. If you’re using a 28” range tire I’d use a 4.10. with a Dana. Like mentioned a 3.91 would work well to if you run a 8.75. Not a fan of ratchet shifters myself. All 3 mopars out in the garage have cheetah scs shifters. The cable enters from the rear so it avoids the burnt cable bs. Also easy to use for a street car. Put the shifter in the gear you want. A properly built 512 will easily run 10’s in an “A” body on pump gas if you use the right heads and cam.
Click to expand...
Agree. I had a cheetah in my 62, but the brain dead driver (me) occasionally didn't pay enough attention, and the result was a 1,3,2,3 shift. (and a round loss).
I repurposed the cheetah to the glide car where it functioned perfectly.
The rear entry of the cable is important, and the shifter itself is bullet proof.
But so is a Winters Sidewinder, also rear entry cable, also been around for 50 years (at least), also bullet proof, ...... and $200 cheaper than the T/A cheetah.
 
BHB4408 said:
Thank you for the replies; I'm starting with a 489 8.75 because that's what I have for now. I'll move to the Dana as soon as I can after I get it built. I won't use a Trans Break until I do. The car will end up at about 3,000 pounds with the 440 and everything I've done. The 440, when built, should have about 525+ HP. Just using ported 902/906 heads for now, so building the bottom end right, and can improve the top end when I get the chassis all set up.

So what I'm hearing helped with some decisions. I'll go with the 727, and use a quality Trans shop to set me up. I'll use a quality ratchet shifter with a reverse valve body, and I'll go with 4:30 gears to start. I'm having to relearn all this stuff, and appreciate all of your experience and guidance.

If anyone has advice on a shifter, slick size, torque converter stall level, and any other thoughts, it would be taken as gospel for me right now. Thank you,
Click to expand...

I hate ratchet shifters. Never have. I wouldn’t do the reverse pattern without a clean neutral either.
 
33IMP said:
Agree. I had a cheetah in my 62, but the brain dead driver (me) occasionally didn't pay enough attention, and the result was a 1,3,2,3 shift. (and a round loss).
I repurposed the cheetah to the glide car where it functioned perfectly.
The rear entry of the cable is important, and the shifter itself is bullet proof.
But so is a Winters Sidewinder, also rear entry cable, also been around for 50 years (at least), also bullet proof, ...... and $200 cheaper than the T/A cheetah.
Click to expand...

I always forget about the Winters, a buddy of mine put one in his dart and it’s a nice shifter. I found the trick the the cheetah is run a forward gate with the reverse pattern. That way you can eliminate the pesky 1st to 3rd that everyone who has ever ran one of those shifters has done… including me! lol The Cheetah’s really have gotten pricy. They are proud of them for sure.
 
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