Drag racing total timing,Eddy heads

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AJ/FormS said:
My butt-dyno, on the street, cannot tell the difference between 32* and 36*; so it's been at 32/34* since about 2004. She did the 1/8th at 93mph at that setting, and burning 87E10.
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Exactly true! Only the time clock will tell you what’s what. Set it up where ever the engine likes it.
 
Friday night drag results.Well it was packed with cars.Being the last weekend.The guys at the day test n tune and the weekend outlaw classes as well as every BMW,Honda,VW,and deisel pickup showed up to race.First pass.850 carb-on the TCI Streetfighter 3000 stall converter foot braking to 2800 as it pushed the front wheels! big bog as the secondaries opened and a dismal 12.85 @108mph.Yikes.Zero tire spin and incredibly tight p.o.s. $900 CDN converter.18 psi in the drag radials,34 total timing.Carb to big.
Second and only other pass as it's 1 1/2 hours later and getting late as hundred more imports roll in,I switched back to the 750 carb.timing the same.Stabbed it around 1100 rpm =just off idle and ran a [email protected] the converter.So,I think that streetfighter was a huge costly mistake,the 750 carb was spot on.The Comp Extreme f.t cam( the biggest one) is too big for 10-1 compression.Still zero tire spin.5 degrees -pinion angle.I need a smaller less duration cam to build low rpm cylinder pressure or as recommended a smaller 8 or 9" converter.Car has 3" x over exhaust,4:10s.rebuilt 727.bolt in sprag.3460 lbs with me in it.air gap and stock eddies.Was hoping for at least 11.70's but oh well.combo not there yet.
So a 12.12 shows it's capable of running 11's.Man,2 passes was grim.But as is I think thats it.Maybe more timing might have helped.Have to wait til next year.Off come the traction bars.best 60' was 1.72.again car dead hooking.Thats it for decent pics as night pics didnt come out well.

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Marky Dart said:
too big for 10-1 compression
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If you are talking the 284/296/110, #20-225-4 cam,in at 106 for an ICA of 68*, then at 10.15Scr and an estimated 500ft for your location, I can't get the Wallace calculator to spit out more than 158psi. This with at 4.06x3.58, and total chamber volume of 83cc.

My 367 is at 4.05x3.58 and 930ft elevation, with a total chamber of 75.8, so my Dcr is 10.9. With my HE3037cam,276/286/110 in at 104, the ICA comes to the same 68*. And Mr. Wallace spits out 170psi @930ft, which my gauge reads as 177psi; about 4% high.
What I'm saying is our ICAs are probably identical,and our engines are within few cubes of eachother. That means with nearly .8 Scr difference, Your engine cannot be making more psi than mine, unless you are below sealevel,or I am at high-elevation, or mine has tremendous leakage. And since my measured pressure matches the Wallace prediction to 4%, I doubt I have much leakage.
If the Wallace is anywhere near accurate, then you just need more cylinder pressure. I have run close to 200psi with a different combo, on my gauge, which deducting 4% would or could be, a tic over 190psi..... still on 87E10 and 32/34* timing.
How you get the additional psi, well, that's up to you.
But if you really do have 180psi, then you are in pretty good shape with that cam.
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Like I said, my combo went 93 in the 1/8th @3467 pounds; me in it.Which the Wallace mutates into 115mph in the quarter, which has the potential to go 11.9.
You're really close. You have more cam, and more indicated pressure and more gear; and our weight difference is just what you weigh.
If you wanna do some test and tune without a track, get yourself a G-techProSS performance meter, input some data,stick it on the windshield, and go find an abandoned straight stretch of road. Have fun.
PS, I have a brand new one,still in the box.
 
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Buy a better converter. The cam is not too big. 180 cranking pressure is FINE!
JMO.

Shelf converters for cars that you want to run hard are junk for the most part. Converter is the single most important piece of the puzzle in an auto trans car!

If that was your first time out with the car, it ran pretty good. There's a bunch more in it is my guess.
 
crackedback said:
Buy a better converter. The cam is not too big. 180 cranking pressure is FINE!
JMO.

Shelf converters for cars that you want to run hard are junk for the most part. Converter is the single most important piece of the puzzle in an auto trans car!

If that was your first time out with the car, it ran pretty good. There's a bunch more in it is my guess.
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I agree .I would have thought i'd get around 3-3200 ft. braking it as advertised.No sense doing much else except quarters and paint(in my garage) this winter,until I get a better converter.
 
AJ/FormS said:
If you are talking the 284/296/110, #20-225-4 cam,in at 106 for an ICA of 68*, then at 10.15Scr and an estimated 500ft for your location, I can't get the Wallace calculator to spit out more than 158psi. This with at 4.06x3.58, and total chamber volume of 83cc.

My 367 is at 4.05x3.58 and 930ft elevation, with a total chamber of 75.8, so my Dcr is 10.9. With my HE3037cam,276/286/110 in at 104, the ICA comes to the same 68*. And Mr. Wallace spits out 170psi @930ft, which my gauge reads as 177psi; about 4% high.
What I'm saying is our ICAs are probably identical,and our engines are within few cubes of eachother. That means with nearly .8 Scr difference, Your engine cannot be making more psi than mine, unless you are below sealevel,or I am at high-elevation, or mine has tremendous leakage. And since my measured pressure matches the Wallace prediction to 4%, I doubt I have much leakage.
If the Wallace is anywhere near accurate, then you just need more cylinder pressure. I have run close to 200psi with a different combo, on my gauge, which deducting 4% would or could be, a tic over 190psi..... still on 87E10 and 32/34* timing.
How you get the additional psi, well, that's up to you.
But if you really do have 180psi, then you are in pretty good shape with that cam.
___________________________________
Like I said, my combo went 93 in the 1/8th @3467 pounds; me in it.Which the Wallace mutates into 115mph in the quarter, which has the potential to go 11.9.
You're really close. You have more cam, and more indicated pressure and more gear; and our weight difference is just what you weigh.
If you wanna do some test and tune without a track, get yourself a G-techProSS performance meter, input some data,stick it on the windshield, and go find an abandoned straight stretch of road. Have fun.
PS, I have a brand new one,still in the box.
Click to expand...
 
AJ/FormS said:
If you are talking the 284/296/110, #20-225-4 cam,in at 106 for an ICA of 68*, then at 10.15Scr and an estimated 500ft for your location, I can't get the Wallace calculator to spit out more than 158psi. This with at 4.06x3.58, and total chamber volume of 83cc.

My 367 is at 4.05x3.58 and 930ft elevation, with a total chamber of 75.8, so my Dcr is 10.9. With my HE3037cam,276/286/110 in at 104, the ICA comes to the same 68*. And Mr. Wallace spits out 170psi @930ft, which my gauge reads as 177psi; about 4% high.
What I'm saying is our ICAs are probably identical,and our engines are within few cubes of eachother. That means with nearly .8 Scr difference, Your engine cannot be making more psi than mine, unless you are below sealevel,or I am at high-elevation, or mine has tremendous leakage. And since my measured pressure matches the Wallace prediction to 4%, I doubt I have much leakage.
If the Wallace is anywhere near accurate, then you just need more cylinder pressure. I have run close to 200psi with a different combo, on my gauge, which deducting 4% would or could be, a tic over 190psi..... still on 87E10 and 32/34* timing.
How you get the additional psi, well, that's up to you.
But if you really do have 180psi, then you are in pretty good shape with that cam.
___________________________________
Like I said, my combo went 93 in the 1/8th @3467 pounds; me in it.Which the Wallace mutates into 115mph in the quarter, which has the potential to go 11.9.
You're really close. You have more cam, and more indicated pressure and more gear; and our weight difference is just what you weigh.
If you wanna do some test and tune without a track, get yourself a G-techProSS performance meter, input some data,stick it on the windshield, and go find an abandoned straight stretch of road. Have fun.
PS, I have a brand new one,still in the box.
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Thanks mate.Yeah ,that the cam I'm running.The converter in the car now is holding it back-too tight.never had this issue dead hooking .No wheel speed and lugging down the engine
 
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I hear what you're saying, but your engine will only go thru that "soft zone" of say 2800 to 3800, one time, on it's way down the track, so how much improvement can you expect from a TC?
Whereas; what I'm suggesting is a second opinion of your cylinder pressure, which difference starts at the beginning of the track and ends at the end of the track.
 
Most 3200 converters will not foot brake to the stall. Too many factors involved.

IMO. Buy a really good converter that flashes to 4200-4500 and is tight on cruise, A good converter company can build it. Ultimate, dynamic... etc. Best money you can spend. 60' will drop and MPH will go up!

Find what the car likes for launching. That bigger carb may need some different squirters and pump cams to work well. Run the 750 for now and move the timing around to see where the engine likes it best. Could be a MPH or two in total timing alone. Carb jetting may need changes too.

Nice looking ride. A friend had a similar car with a 440hp 340 and it ran 11.60 at 115ish IIRC.
 
Hi.thanks for that info.I did contact PTC.Out of Alabama?I sent them the tech sheet and they did recommend their 9.5 for $500.Sounds good price wise but can you give me your details on 60 fts and converter details?-flash and ft. brake,what rpm and gears you have.I'm hitting 6400 through the lights(1/4 mile).I know my car can run much quicker but It needs rpm to launch harder.thanks.
 
As much as I know. My converter was spec’d by John Cope of Cope racing trans who was building my trans. So I don’t know many details about the converter. I did take pictures of the markings on it. My fear is because of the class I run not much will translate over. I run a f-70 14” reproduction redline tire. 6” wide, but this is what I do. I load the convert until about 3200 rpm’s. Hold a steady throttle let the car roll a couple of feet and roll into. If I don’t load the converter enough when I roll into it it flashes too high and snaps the tire loose. It has done a 1.71 60’. The useful number I think is ptc 9.5” tf-8-s200+
I run 4:10 gear and cross about 6400 rpm. I know there’s more stall in it. I just can’t use it with my tire. PTC might be able to tell you more from the number.
 
:thankyou: Marky Dart for starting this thread, and :thankyou: everyone who has contributed to it.:thankyou:
:thumbsup: Found all I needed to keep me busy for the rest of my life, mostly anyway! :thumbsup:
:)rolleyes: And to think, all I had to do is sit back, keep quiet and read.....:eek:...I like it!!!!)
This :lol: "computer collaboration" :lol: stuff may just catch on, & you can quote me on that too......:rofl:......Thanks!!! :thumbsup:
 
Christine&Rusty said:
:thankyou: Marky Dart for starting this thread, and :thankyou: everyone who has contributed to it.:thankyou:
:thumbsup: Found all I needed to keep me busy for the rest of my life, mostly anyway! :thumbsup:
:)rolleyes: And to think, all I had to do is sit back, keep quiet and read.....:eek:...I like it!!!!)
This :lol: "computer collaboration" :lol: stuff may just catch on, & you can quote me on that too......:rofl:......Thanks!!! :thumbsup:
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Well thanks so much for that.Just a gear head at heart like most of us.starting with a timing thread that ended up with much more.awsome.
Just got back from the border picking up the last of base-clear paints ordered from Summit.Just so you know Summit's bright blue metallic is dog gone close to the B-5 paint thats on my car and the savings opposed to my local shops was more than half even with exchange.Ill be busy fitting new 1/4 skins this winter and painting in the garage in the spring.the wife will love that.
Looks like I will be ordering the PTC converter so again thanks to all for their input and advice.Can't wait now to the spring to try it out at the track.Cheers mates!
 
Marky Dart said:
Well thanks so much for that.Just a gear head at heart like most of us.starting with a timing thread that ended up with much more.awsome.
Just got back from the border picking up the last of base-clear paints ordered from Summit.Just so you know Summit's bright blue metallic is dog gone close to the B-5 paint thats on my car and the savings opposed to my local shops was more than half even with exchange.Ill be busy fitting new 1/4 skins this winter and painting in the garage in the spring.the wife will love that.
Looks like I will be ordering the PTC converter so again thanks to all for their input and advice.Can't wait now to the spring to try it out at the track.Cheers mates!
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I agree wholeheartedly with Crackedback and his converter suggestions. If your PTC is not doing the job now, why buy another one ??
My point, I have a similar combo as you, albeit a 904, the Turbo Action 10" I just sold went 1.60 60', and my new Dynamic 9.5 just went 1.50 with the wrong carb. Dynamic's, or Ultimates are more money, but well worth it.
 
'63GT said:
I agree wholeheartedly with Crackedback and his converter suggestions. If your PTC is not doing the job now, why buy another one ??
My point, I have a similar combo as you, albeit a 904, the Turbo Action 10" I just sold went 1.60 60', and my new Dynamic 9.5 just went 1.50 with the wrong carb. Dynamic's, or Ultimates are more money, but well worth it.
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I have had plenty of PTC convertors over the years and they have worked great, and other than my current one, been pretty much dead on. I goofed on this one.
Kenny Ford, who owns PTC, is a very good Mopar racer. He knows what he is doing.
98% of the time, any of the big convertor folks can fix you up. The HUGE key is giving them ACCURATE information for them to build it with. Many guys dont do that, and it causes issues with happyness
 
'63GT said:
I agree wholeheartedly with Crackedback and his converter suggestions. If your PTC is not doing the job now, why buy another one ??
My point, I have a similar combo as you, albeit a 904, the Turbo Action 10" I just sold went 1.60 60', and my new Dynamic 9.5 just went 1.50 with the wrong carb. Dynamic's, or Ultimates are more money, but well worth it.
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I agree with ultimate, but I quickly went through the thread and think the OP is or was running a TCI converter not PTC.
 
furrystump said:
I agree with ultimate, but I quickly went through the thread and think the OP is or was running a TCI converter not PTC.
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You are correct, my bad. (never heard much good about the TCI's...)
 
Marky Dart said:
Yes a smaller converter would be nice but with 3000 stall and 4'10s now its at it's edge as I drive it just about everyday.Sometimes for miles.I will back it down to 34 and try that.Wish i had more track time but winter is a comin' and thats it for this year.
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I agree. And, I would call IMM and ask Brian or Fred.
 
Marky Dart said:
Yes a smaller converter would be nice but with 3000 stall and 4'10s now its at it's edge as I drive it just about everyday.Sometimes for miles.
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That's 1970-1980's thinking. Converters are much better on cruise with higher stall/flash than the old marshmellow units. Plenty of guys have higher stall units (true 3800-4500) that run LESS rpm on the highway than a shelf 3K converter. That's what you spend the money for when buying a converter.

I'm not a fan of PTC for many reasons. Anyways, I hope they make it with plenty of stall and tight on cruise.
 
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