Dremel 4000 repair...

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DRENO

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I think some of you people out there have one of these.Mine crapped out on me and I am trying to repair it.I always repaired my old dremels but this one is a little different.It just plain won't go.

The on/off switch in the circle appears to be the problem...

View attachment FABO 029f.JPG

Checked the two pins/solder points for continuity.Open and close the switch and no change.Could be this switch is the problem......

View attachment FABO 030f.JPG

Brushes are fine,look real good

View attachment FABO 031f.jpg

Any one have this problem ,were you able to get parts or did you have to find a repair depot? Do you any of you Winnipeg people know where a repair depot is?
 
I had one just like it do the same thing. I tried fixin it but just ended up chunkin the thing. I still need a replacement. I tried a switch, brushes....and one other little piece...I forget....but nuthin worked.
 
Thx for the reply,not ready to give up on it yet.It's not that old. When it works I like it ,much more power than the old ones. 8)
 
Dreno I would try to run a jumper to bypass the switch and see if it works. That way you know the switch is the problem.
 
Dreno I would try to run a jumper to bypass the switch and see if it works. That way you know the switch is the problem.

Well aren't you the smart one,never thought of that.:thumbup: Thanks Badart.
 
Check out Dewalt on St James. They usually carry most brands. Also Athena on Empress ( not sure if they carry it but will order for you). Switch is usually the culprit as they are always low quality. The bearings also don't last very long in these if you abuse it too much so if there is a large amount of play order bearings as well.
 
WOW this is disturbing. I had no idea the newer ones had so much "junk in the trunk." I'm referring to the circuit board. The trouble could be almost anywhere, and of course bypassing the switch---be careful.....is an obvious plan.

I guess if you could figure whether the motor was 120V or not, you could even bypass the whole board.

All three of my Dremels are older non---variable speed. I "solved" that problem by taking a large metal surface mount box, with a front plate which mounts a duplex receptacle on one side, a toggle on the other. Then mount a lamp dimmer in the toggle side, and now you have a box which will control heat on a soldering iron, or speed on your Dremel.
 
I have two word for that Dave. Flying lessons.

LOL jk

Lol,it almost went flying when it crapped out right in the middle of a job. :angry7: So I went to my backup older dremel and yep,it died too. :angry7::angry7: Fixed the old one but the new one,different story.

p.s. i quit drinkin for the last month
 
Check out Dewalt on St James. They usually carry most brands. Also Athena on Empress ( not sure if they carry it but will order for you). Switch is usually the culprit as they are always low quality. The bearings also don't last very long in these if you abuse it too much so if there is a large amount of play order bearings as well.

Thanks Bill,but i went to home Depot where I bought it and they told me to bring it back for exchange,it's only about 5-6 months old,I think.8)
 
WOW this is disturbing. I had no idea the newer ones had so much "junk in the trunk." I'm referring to the circuit board. The trouble could be almost anywhere, and of course bypassing the switch---be careful.....is an obvious plan.

I guess if you could figure whether the motor was 120V or not, you could even bypass the whole board.

All three of my Dremels are older non---variable speed. I "solved" that problem by taking a large metal surface mount box, with a front plate which mounts a duplex receptacle on one side, a toggle on the other. Then mount a lamp dimmer in the toggle side, and now you have a box which will control heat on a soldering iron, or speed on your Dremel.

Yep,saw that board and went WTF! Fortunately they said it was covered under warranty.I guess I forgot to tell him I took it apart.:snakeman:
 
Lol,it almost went flying when it crapped out right in the middle of a job. :angry7: So I went to my backup older dremel and yep,it died too. :angry7::angry7: Fixed the old one but the new one,different story.

p.s. i quit drinkin for the last month

Good for you. I wish I had the will. Hope all is well.
 
I know this is an old thread but I just want to help those Dremel owners who might have the same problem on this discussion. try putting a jumper wire on the thermal resistor. one terminal is connected to the carbon contact , the other to the motor windings. its very visible on the second picture from top. metal and ceramic white body with black labels. fixed mine by this method
 
If your problem was solved with my suggestion. you must replace that thermal resistor or you might burn your motor by operating with a jumper on it. you loose thermal protection for you motor by operating without it or by putting a jumper on it
 
OR, if your Dremel is less than 3 years old, send it back to Dremel and they will fix it or replace it under warranty. I have gone through 3 Dremels in the last 6 years. I just pay shipping there and I keep getting a new one. I'm not even going to try and fix one of these if it's under warranty. Just a thought.
 
x2 those thing are notorius for failing, what it does is shut of the dremel when it gets too hot. when they fail they just shut it off forever :)

not really called a thermal resistor it is actually a thermal cut off

http://www.digikey.com/product-sear.../thermal-cutoffs-cutouts-tco/655696?k=thermal



I know this is an old thread but I just want to help those Dremel owners who might have the same problem on this discussion. try putting a jumper wire on the thermal resistor. one terminal is connected to the carbon contact , the other to the motor windings. its very visible on the second picture from top. metal and ceramic white body with black labels. fixed mine by this method
 
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