thesiren74
Well-Known Member
What cam is in it?
Tried to post my dyno run. 400 with stealth heads mild cam,
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Not much more cam than in my 419.400 from 76 New Yorker rebuilt
polished cast crank reconditioned rods
l2388 F 40 trw pistons yeilding about 10.1:1
Had Schneider grind a cam
Stealth heads gasket matched
Edelbrock rpm performer intake
msd distributer and 6al ignition
Speed demon 750 vacuum secondary
a body big block exhaust manifolds into 2 1/2" dual exhaust with crossover
Be cool rad
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What was done to the Stealth heads prior to use? Did you just run them out of the box? Inspect them? Any clean up work on them?Thinkin with a 440 instead of a 400 more HP should be easily achievable.
Please don't get me wrong I hope you send it through the quarterSome had 6 pack rods.... and most never saw over 3500 rpms. Either way, no matter. I plan to stress it till it stretches
I already knew the answer when I asked the question.. I noticed you quoted me there a couple times but not the quote I was asking for where I said you had to have a stroker to get a 10-second time slip...Talking about taking nothing and turning it into something. Lol. I explained that a stoker wasn’t necessary for most. And someone asked if I ever built a stocker and I replied yes. View attachment 1715848503View attachment 1715848504
We'll send it, count on that. What we don't know yet is what heads will be on top when it happens....Please don't get me wrong I hope you send it through the quarter
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In your case, I would get your iron heads cleaned and inspected. This may make the decision process easier, if you find they're more work you want to deal with, you can sell the cores. But in also in my case, I've got a little bit of an unfair advantage with my local machinist/semi famous Mopar engine builder that make the Iron heads a no brainer, but being a borderline charity case doesn't hurt there, either! It may not be a bad idea to start scouring eBay and other places and find a set of secondhand aftermarket heads.
no cam bought yet.I must be overlooking it through all the back and forth in this thread. Did you say you already had a cam that you're going to use in this one? Hydraulic or Solid, flat or roller?
I think the Speedmaster head require rockers that double the cost LOL...The other questions I have are # 1: Why did you decide to not use the speedmaster big block heads? #2: Are you going to swap pistons? It may be impossible to get any kind of decent compression with the stock motorhome pistons. .080 below deck with dishes and valve reliefs is not uncommon at all to find in those engines.
The other questions I have are # 1: Why did you decide to not use the speedmaster big block heads? #2: Are you going to swap pistons? It may be impossible to get any kind of decent compression with the stock motorhome pistons. .080 below deck with dishes and valve reliefs is not uncommon at all to find in those engines.
The Speedmasters were 3500-7500 rpm heads. A little aggressive for what I want. I had the rockers for them.I think the Speedmaster head require rockers that double the cost LOL...
3500-7500 head's?...The Speedmasters were 3500-7500 rpm heads. A little aggressive for what I want. I had the rockers for them.
yep3500-7500 head's?...
They were chinese knock off's of the eddy Victor. Fine, if you want Victors. I didn't.I don’t know how you or anyone came up with that.
Can you explain that?
(Shuddering)
it's the "rpm" range given my the manufacture. I really don't care if the RPM is correct or not, I didn't want Victor style heads for my build. It's why I sold the SM heads. The only reason.So sorry, that doesn’t explain how the head has a rpm band applied to it.
I like the way you defy logic and laugh at it LOL... Your building a drag motor but you don't want heads capable of higher RPM... ...it's the "rpm" range given my the manufacture. I really don't care if the RPM is correct or not, I didn't want Victor style heads for my build. It's why I sold the SM heads. The only reason.