Economical replacement rocker arm set?

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Ring width =.350"
Ring wall thickness = .117"

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Also, you should drill the 2nd hole in the shaft behind each rocker if it is not there. This helps feed the hole in the adjuster side of the rocker, which then dribbles oil down past the adjuster and into the pushrod cup. For high revs, it is a must IMHO.

That 2nd hole is about 80 degrees around the circumference, up from the bottom oil hole in the groove, and to the adjuster side side of the rocker (which would be the uphill side of the shaft). It is .125" diameter. You can see it here; the shaft is upside-down in this pix.

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WSUTARD said:
Yep, awesome dude. We thought this was headed toward the need for adjustables and he stepped right up. Wouldn't even take money for shipping. Now I have



WSUTARD said:
You mean a groove like this? What is the best way to do this?
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that notch in the end of the shaft in the picture faces down and to the left as your leaning over the fender installing them. That positions the oiling holes where they need to be, supplying oil where it is needed so the shafts and rockers don't gall up. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. If not done correctly the rockers and shafts can actually weld themselves together. No bueno. I've seen it, it is not pretty.
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And I have officially run into a problem.
#7 intake pushrod is touching the rocker. I'm guessing that this means I need shorter pushrods.
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Wait. I'm doing this wrong. I should be setting the adjuster with the lifter on the back side of the cam shouldn't I?
 
If I put the distributor 2 cylinders past the one I'm setting I should be on the base circle correct?
 
Most will probably tell you to Adjust the intake while the exhaust is open in the exhaust at the beginning of the intake or something like that but I just follow this chart and I just do it the same every single time. That's what works for me opinions will vary.....
 
It comes in a sticker and you can stick it on the inner fender wall where it's nice and handy. I'd like to find one for my own car.
 
This is confusing. You sure that chart is right? TDC#1 puts exhaust #8 almost on full exhaust.
 
For what you are doing, you can set the adjustment just by going off the firing order.

So get to number 1 firing at TDC and set #1 then roll the crank 90 degrees and do #8 and so on.

Or you can chart that jpar posted. I use that on any cam I do that is solid lifter. If you look real close, it even works on other firing orders if you change the numbers a bit. Drives the ford guys nuts when I get their firing order (I don't memorize ford stuff) and then user that chart.

There is also the deal where you set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just opens and do the exhaust when the intake just shuts or something like that. I've never liked it that well and can do t as fast or faster than most using the Chrysler chart.
 
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