Economical replacement rocker arm set?

-
rustycowll69 said:
do you know what type of guide you have? if it is really thin-wall, it's called a guide liner. If it is like 3/32" thick or so wall thickness it is a replacement guide. They can be iron or bronze. Have you felt around the spring retainer and spring seat, while the engine is running? Perhaps, if it comes to that you can remove the keepers, retainer, v. spring, v. stem seal and look for any anomalies. But you have to be able to keep the valve from dropping in the cylinder. It can be done, but you have to be careful.
Click to expand...
No idea on the heads. I will cross that bridge when I get there I guess.
 
Anyone know if I can buy individual lifters? I'm not finding anything with my searches.
 
WSUTARD said:
Anyone know if I can buy individual lifters? I'm not finding anything with my searches.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure you can buy them individually from Mopar. Probably Sealed Power, too. Call up J & J Auto Parts on 147th and 15th NE, they should be able to take care of that.
 
I am not sure why you would think the guide was a problem if there is such gap between the rocker and valve tip. Have you swapped any rockers around? If you are buying a new lifter or 2, then buy a couple of new rockers.
 
nm9stheham said:
I am not sure why you would think the guide was a problem if there is such gap between the rocker and valve tip. Have you swapped any rockers around? If you are buying a new lifter or 2, then buy a couple of new rockers.
Click to expand...
I did swap the rockers between #3 and #1. The sound didnt move.
 
OK. I am trying to think up a way to see if the upper tips of the pushrods are at the same height when each is on the heel of its respective lobe. It would take some sort of reference plane on the head to measure from.

Man it sure is good that you put in the thinner head gaskets or this gap would have been huge! And I bet more rockers would be loose.
 
There is also an HT2001R, which is an anti-pump-up version of the same lifter. Not sure which you have... probably the non-R version based on pix of ones with the wire clips. I don't know if the piston's cup height is exactly the same between the 2.
 
nm9stheham said:
There is also an HT2001R, which is an anti-pump-up version of the same lifter. Not sure which you have... probably the non-R version based on pix of ones with the wire clips. I don't know if the piston's cup height is exactly the same between the 2.
Click to expand...
I saw that but it is special order. I haven't connected with Comp yet but for $12 my impatience tells me to get these two local and give it a go today. I don't think it is a lifter issue but it would be dumb not to try, just in case. Unless there is a large chance I will do damage to the cam on the break in cycle!?!

Here is why I don't think its a lifter issue. When I used the stethoscope the sound was the loudest on the rocker shaft, as if I had placed the scope right on the problem area. I was able to place the scope on the pushrod and the sound was weaker, however I did have to deal with it oscillating up and down.
 
Well, I guess there is a slight chance. But no more than with new lifters in my estimation. I've done it before with no issues and so have a lot of gearheads.

Here is why I was musing above on checking the pushrod height relative to the head: The valve does not look all THAT short relative to the others. So, IF the pushrods are all the same length (I'm not sure how you checked them) , then something must be up with the lifter or lobe base circle. Just 1 lobe base circle being low seems crazy.... but who knows.... anything can happen. A lifter dimensional issue is FAR more likely.

Have you compared 2 lifters side by side carefully to see if the #3 ex cup height is identical? And did you swap pushrods? And when you can move the #3 ex rocker, have you looked down to see if the lifter piston is fully up to the top of its travel? This ought to be easy to find what is short.

BTW, when you had the heads off, were there seats installed under the valves? Did the shop comment?
 
BTW, when you took the #3 ex lifter apart, did the piston move smoothly up and down in the body? Just trying to think if it could jam in the 'down' position.
 
nm9stheham said:
BTW, when you took the #3 ex lifter apart, did the piston move smoothly up and down in the body? Just trying to think if it could jam in the 'down' position.
Click to expand...
Piston moved smoothly. I even felt it when I put it back in the engine and pushed on the rocker. Moved fine. When I first started it after replacing it had the tick, I decided to run it and let the lifters fill up with oil. The tick subsided a little to the point where I thought it was fixed. Drove it around the block and the tick was back.
 
I sure would.....good time to cut open the filter too. Also, put moly cam lube on the 2 new lifters. Do everything as if it were a brand new cam. Those 2 lifters need to mate into the cam lobe like a new one.

OK on the tick. What oil weight are you using? Lighter weights tend to cause more lifter ticks, in my experience at least. It could be oil heating up and thinning out, or just expansion of the parts as the engine warms up.
 
nm9stheham said:
I sure would.....good time to cut open the filter too. Also, put moly cam lube on the 2 new lifters. Do everything as if it were a brand new.

OK on the tick. What oil weight are you using? Lighter weights tend to cause more lifter ticks, in my experience at least. It could be oil heating up and thinning out, or just expansion of the parts as the engine warms up.
Click to expand...
OK, I will find some break in additive. I already have Rislone added to the current oil. Will that harm the additive I put in for the break in?

I cut the filter open on my last oil change, a week ago. Noting to speak of there.

Running 10-30 weight. Prior to all this I was running 20-50. My oil pressure is about 25 it idle and 60 at RPM so I didnt want to go with a thicker oil.
 
I personally would put in fresh oil and one additive or the other. Additive packages are reported to sometime have adverse effects with each others. And cam lube is different from break-in oil or oil additive. Hopefully there is some left from the initial cam installation.

I've found that lighter oils consistently give more lifter ticks. I am guessing that it just gets squeezed out of the lifter(s) more easier; that should not happen if the check valve is good and the piston fits tight in the lifter. But weight would obviously not have anything to do with dimensionally short parts.
 
BTW, if you get the chance and have any of the original lifters, accurately measure the cup height on the new ones to the old ones to see if there is any difference. Just another long shot .....
 
nm9stheham said:
BTW, if you get the chance and have any of the original lifters, accurately measure the cup height on the new ones to the old ones to see if there is any difference. Just another long shot .....
Click to expand...
I didnt catch this in time. Already installed and did the break in.

Speaking of, anyone know if I can run the car a little while the break in oil is in there and after I have finished the break in process? I'm sure it wont hurt but figured I would ask. It was just two lifters.

And by run the car I mean, in the garage, and maybe around the block to listen for the tick.
 
I don't see why not. It is just oil with lower lubricating properties. My son ran the original Brad Penn that we started with for a few hundred miles.

You can check the lifters that you just pulled against any of the old ones; I 'm just curious, nothing vital. If the tick does not go away, then it is a moot point.
 
Well, for fear of jinxing myself I didn't say this yesterday. Today I can confirm that the tick is gone. Replacing the lifters on #3 did the trick.
 
I should have changed them 7 pages ago however I didnt realize you could get them in singles and thought you could clean the tick out of them. Ohh well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top