However, in the case of Edelbrock, the prices have drastically gone up while quality has surely gone down.
Edelbrock aluminum heads
- Thread starter ir3333
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Is Bloomer still selling heads?
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I'm sure that you have noticed that a lot of things have went up in price while both quality and quantity has went down.
crazydog
Active Member
Shocker 185 Mopar CNC (Sold in Pairs) - PROMAXX Performance Products
These show to be a 2.08. I had not looked at them until I saw them mentioned in the Free Camshaft thread.
crazydog
Active Member
If you have the secret decoder ring I guess.
Since you are in the marketing department, maybe you could post up a phone number or email address to order them?
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Send him a message on Facebook.
I you can’t do that, pm me if you are serious about a set, will give you the number( which is posted on here I believe in other threads)
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Ok sorry wasn't Aware
ir3333
Well-Known Member
Wow..lots of good info guys. It seems a rebuilt set of J heads would be a better choice for most builds.
In my opinion, I wouldn't spend the money to rebuild old heads. When the smoke clears you will likely spend 60-70% of the price of a new set of Speed masters or Performance World heads, and have an inferior head at the end of the day.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
J heads will flow 400 hp and really 325-350 is plenty for a nice all around driver. To push 400 hp you'll need a bigger cam and aluminum or ported stock heads.Then you'll have more expense and a "dud" on the street.
Hmmmm very interesting. Please tell us more.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
1 foundry in the ISA in Cali. YouTube “Edebrock.”
LMAO!
100%!
I disagree, though…. It’s all about the combo. I wouldn’t expect a sweet runner with a 8.-1 compression ratio and Hwy gears coupled with the cam needed to make the power. The cam would obviously have to be a bit large in duration to make the power. But a stock port will allow the power.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
Could make a good discussion. But if the stock heads stall out around .480 lift can you get 425-450 with a big cam and stock heads? Long duration would surely help but it would have a tough time at lo rpm.
Hang on from 3000 up!
Hang on from 3000 up!
That’s exactly how it will work. But yes. Stock 340/360 heads tend to have peak air flow at .500. The old Crane Cams catalog was chock full of cams around .500 lift with a wide verity of durations. I am about to fire up a 5.9 with just headers, rpm intake and a 750 AFB with a Crane cam of 236/.497-108. The 1.6 Magnum head rockers add a bit of lift to .539.
You could have found several cams like this with duration mirrored and split from low 220’s to 240 durations @050.
Another example is the MP Purple 292/.509. It’s about 248@050. A bit of a big hyd cam for the street but easy to work with. I used on in a 10-1/360 and stock heads w/a 4spd & 4.10. It’s good for an easy low 13 second 1/4. 12’s if your car is really light.
The lack of torque is overcome with steeper gears & the obvious sacrifice of interstate driving.
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ir3333
Well-Known Member
Yup..gears and converter will fix the lo end but now you're heading to more of a race build and the all around
driver is sacrificed to some degree. I ran a warm 340 with a .230 duration cam and it was lazy. A 9 1/2" Dynamic converter solved the lo rpm power but the novelty wore off driving "through it"or "out of it" on steep hills or corners at highway speeds.
Here's a nice all around driver...I didn't load this video correctly so just restart the video and watch the first couple of minutes. Pretty much stock and would be a blast to drive everywhere with decent mileage. And i bet it'll probably be about 14.5 give or take.
No..it's not a quarter miler
driver is sacrificed to some degree. I ran a warm 340 with a .230 duration cam and it was lazy. A 9 1/2" Dynamic converter solved the lo rpm power but the novelty wore off driving "through it"or "out of it" on steep hills or corners at highway speeds.
Here's a nice all around driver...I didn't load this video correctly so just restart the video and watch the first couple of minutes. Pretty much stock and would be a blast to drive everywhere with decent mileage. And i bet it'll probably be about 14.5 give or take.
No..it's not a quarter miler
And you wonder why guys buy these. Then minus the 40% from this during the Black Friday sale.
slow as chit shameful no where near 14.5
the lazy big cam you say blows would blow that away
JC71340
Member
I got a black Friday deal on Speedmaster big block heads 900 bucks a pair! Bolt on ready? Not so much. Good quality, but assembled with no time and patience to properly get all seats to match each and every valve. I will do all of that, but if they had been run, I guarantee problems would have developed later.
furrystump
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I wouldn’t put a dime into a cast iron head if I wasn’t required to. I’m at touch over 400 with my highly ported x heads. If the cast head needs work, save up and go aluminum. Repairable/lighter/better casting/easier to get ported. Rebuilding a set of cast heads isn’t really financially smart. As to the Eddy head, I have a set that have not given me any issues. Two issues that might need addressing. Alternator figment and if you use the 340 exhaust manifolds. They might hit the head. Not hard issues to solve, just need to keep them in mind.
But under 3000 rpm we spend most time at part throttle which means the engine only making what it needs to do normal driving which is not much and it's only a fraction of the hp the engine capable of even at low rpms. And at full throttle how much time do we spend under 3000 rpms anyways.
There's many ways to make hp, If you look at modern cars is head flow not cam duration in older cars we tend to make up the overall airflow with cams. Good heads and moderate cam decent stall and gears driveability shouldn't be an issue.
Look at LS 4.8 & 5.3 there truck engines a truck engine needs to be streetable and in dyno trim they make 330 & 350 hp out of basically a 273/318 size engines, why good heads then add a decent but still relatively small cam and make well into the 400's hp. Not like we can't do similar idea with parts available to us.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
I agree...we spend all our time driving under 3000 so that's were you want power. I have also used the old .474 purple shaft with about .238 duration and like all big cams it was a dud on the street. Those cams make power at high rpm and are a necessity for 12 seconds at the strip, but require hi stall converters and gears which are unpleasant for normal driving.
Built a few 383's like that back in the late 70's / 80
4.57's and convertor helped get in the R's quick. ported 915's, 557 solid and street dominator with Carter comp.
Unless your deep into the pedal all time to do normal driving your engine already makes an excess of under 3000 rpm power.
There's a lot of cam choices between stock and the one's your posting, there a lot of streetable cams to pick especially if you add it with good heads to make streetable power. Bigger cams can also and tend to add in the 2500-4500 rpm range not just on top, it generally takes a very big cam to make less torque at 2500 rpm then stock low power cam.
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