abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Weird. None of my holleys leak.
Weird. None of my holleys leak.
Never liked Holley's, they leak a lot.
On my 360 powered Dart I looking at replacing my leaky Holley with either a 600 or 650 cfm model. The car is used for street use and cruise in's only. Manual or electric choke, any suggestions would be helpful.
I like the Ede 600 manual choke carb. Living in Cali, I take all the choke parts out of my Ede carbs.
This carb works very well all around, only giving away a couple ponies on the top rpm range, to the 750 Ede. Again, great all around carb.
But my favorite out of all the Ede's is the Thunder Series 650, with the adjustable secondaries.
This carb is the perfect size for a 340, or 360, and just works. Again, I take all the choke parts out of the
equation. This is kind of a pricey carb, but can be found used. Find this carb, you wont be disappointed.
If your holleys leak a lot, you're doing it wrong.
I really appreciate your input, I still might rebuild the carb. I will have to contact Holly direct to see what they recommend, the 80508 is an older model I believe and is 750 cfm. I will see what the say on the Quick fuel parts. Thanks
I really appreciate your input, I still might rebuild the carb. I will have to contact Holly direct to see what they recommend, the 80508 is an older model I believe and is 750 cfm. I will see what the say on the Quick fuel parts. Thank
There's no reason why that carb shouldn't work well on a 360. That 80508 is a 750 vacuum secondary 4160 (primary metering block w/ secondary metering plate). Are the primary metering block and secondary metering plate the ones that go with the main body?
I would just clean it out really good and put everything back to stock (pri. jets-72, PV- 6.5, secondary spring- plain, squirter- .025 etc.) and start over. There's no reason why your quick fuel bowls should leak. People swap bowls from different manufacturers all the time. Just buy a couple new bowl gaskets and make sure the bowl screw gaskets are good too. Check float adjustment gaskets as well. Hell, just pick up a Holley rebuild kit- $29: Holley Performance 37-754 Renew Carburetor Rebuild Kit
Clean it up, put it back together with good gaskets and fire it up. While you have it off, square up the transfer slots too. That's a decent carb.
Here is my 2 cent take...
There is zero power gain with a manual choke. There never was. It does provide automatic choke and help warm up the engine better, quick & faster for your ease of operation. It's a freakin win win!
You are incorrect because once the carb is tuned for the engine the stock jetting has no play. The manual choke carb could be making more power on the engine/dyno/track because the engine needs a richer jetting. This is an easy change to the electric choke carb. All the above could also be worked in reverse.Not quite. Manual choke version has larger jets and smaller metering rods = richer. Compare 1405 manual to 1406 electric....
But like me, YESTERDAY, before I even put my brand new 1405 on my Scamp, I converted to the 1406 mains, rods, springs, and the pump shot was already on mid. So, I effectively have a 1406 with manual choke. I didn't get finished as I have to replace part of a fuel line tonight. But I will finish tonight. We'll see how it runs, hopefully tonight.
Does the 1405 have more power? In my opinion: No. It is a jetting difference only. Same carb. Does the 1405 jetting make more power? That depends on a whole lot of variables.
Unless you put an AFR gauge on it (or run it down the dragstrip looking at the trap speed) and tune for ~12.5 at WOT or highest trap speed, 1406 / 1405 doesn't matter. Different engines require different things. I don't necessarily think the 1406 set-up I put in the 1405 will make the most power. But, I've been fighting rich on Power Mode and Cruise Mode with the 1407. I should be lean enough (if not too lean) on the 1406 jetting. Either way if it runs great down low, but doesn't hit the AFR I want (12.5) at WOT, I will simply throw a bigger secondary main jet on it, until I get there. That way, I can have my cake (good low rpm (street) manners), and eat it (WOT) too!
7milesout
I'm betting you are going to be too lean with the 1406 out of the box jetting.
Even living at over 5,000 feet I had to jet up from it.
Ding Ding Ding Ding, Winner!
Power Mode: Lean.
Cruise Mode: Seems about right.
Idle: Tuned to 12.9 ~ 13.5. It jumps around continuously.
WOT: Didn't even attempt it. Too lean during Power Mode, so I was not excited about what might happen at full power. Gonna richen power mode and try WOT only after that.
First thing I'm going to do is put a firmer step up spring in it. This would pull the rod out of the main jet at higher vacuum levels (than the current one), bringing on the fuel sooner. If that doesn't richen it up enough, then I'll consider rods / jets.
But the one thing guys complain about on the Edelbrock quite commonly, I see this problem also. Just after consuming the pump shot, it goes too lean. Even at max pump shot, it still spikes lean. And can lead to a stumble. Mine did this on the 1407, and is doing it on the 1405. For those without an AFR, this happens at about 1.5 seconds after beginning to accelerate away from a stop.
I have a theory on how to improve this. The theory is this. What if the "step" on the rod were higher up on the metering rod. Higher up meaning closer to the bend in the rod. In this way, as vacuum is lost on an initial acceleration, and spring begins to lift the rod out of the main jet, the step arrives in the main jet sooner. And thus more fuel, thus no lean stumble.
Does anyone else think this might work? I could *possibly* have some custom metering rods machined to test this theory.
7milesout
I ordered the 37-754 kit, and it is the rear float bowl leaking pretty bad. ThanksThere's no reason why that carb shouldn't work well on a 360. That 80508 is a 750 vacuum secondary 4160 (primary metering block w/ secondary metering plate). Are the primary metering block and secondary metering plate the ones that go with the main body?
I would just clean it out really good and put everything back to stock (pri. jets-72, PV- 6.5, secondary spring- plain, squirter- .025 etc.) and start over. There's no reason why your quick fuel bowls should leak. People swap bowls from different manufacturers all the time. Just buy a couple new bowl gaskets and make sure the bowl screw gaskets are good too. Check float adjustment gaskets as well. Hell, just pick up a Holley rebuild kit- $29: Holley Performance 37-754 Renew Carburetor Rebuild Kit
Clean it up, put it back together with good gaskets and fire it up. While you have it off, square up the transfer slots too. That's a decent carb.
You are incorrect because once the carb is tuned for the engine the stock jetting has no play. The manual choke carb could be making more power on the engine/dyno/track because the engine needs a richer jetting. This is an easy change to the electric choke carb. All the above could also be worked in reverse.
The electric choke carb makes more power than the manual because the engine needs a leaner jetting.
Calling the manual choke carb better because it comes richer OOTB is just plain insane.
Took the Carb apart today, how many throttle body screws are there supposed to be? Two holes left and right in center of throttle body have nothing in them. ThanksI ordered the 37-754 kit, and it is the rear float bowl leaking pretty bad. Thanks
Took the Carb apart today, how many throttle body screws are there supposed to be? Two holes left and right in center of throttle body have nothing in them. Thanks
Well this is not a normal Holley, it has a 80508 main body, Quick Fuel float Bowls front and back and the vacuum secondary is also Quick Fuel... Beside leaking I have never been able to get the choke fast idle to work. Thanks for your input....
whats wrong with the choke? manual or electric? my proform electric choke carb took a little time but the electric choke is awesome.