Electric fan install help.

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Goldduster, Ive got the harness off a Cougar, I ordered the fan new, I couldn't see spending 50 bucks on a junkyard unit from 2002. Now I see somehow I've got to have a temp sensor for the Pac unit, what to do about that? Also, I hope the fan comes with the diode pack? Thanks
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2385?seid=srese1&gclid=CPOo45mOj8oCFYQXHwodTIINWg

That sender will work. Dakota Digital also sells some. You can also theoretically make a custom calibration but that would be hard with the stock gauges.

These are the options:
Display Option
No No gauge, dedicated Dakota Digital sender only
DD1 Dakota Digital individual temp gauge with sender
DD2 Dakota Digital instrument cluster with control box (ver. STR-D or later, older versions use CUS)
STE Stewart Warner gauge and sender
CLS Classic gauge and sender
VDO VDO gauge and sender
ATO Autometer gauge and sender
BUS Dakota Digital BIM connection
CUS Custom calibrated gauge
CAL Custom calibration (for gauge sets not listed above)

My fan was a junkyard one and I had a diode/resistor pack. The dorman one shows the diode/resistor pack in the picture though. If not, they are available separately for about $30.
 
Thank you, but your assuming to much from me, I'm asking because of my ignorance on the subject. Your talking to me about custom calibration, LOL! I have no idea what that options list says. I don't know what the diode pack looks like or where it goes. And that summit thermostat I'm fairly certain isn't wireless. LOL. I;m not looking for a gauge, just some way to tell the controller what temp the engine is. I need a lil more clear instructions please.
 
The Dorman fan does not include the low speed resistor, just the fans and the shroud. I grabbed mine from the yard when I bought the harness and the spare OE fan set up. Must have been a discount weekend or something because I didn't pay anywhere near $50 for all of it.
 
I agree with rustyratrod.
I've been battling my overheating issues and chasing my tail for a few weeks now.
A body big block with champion 4 core radiator and twin fans that come with it. Also a restrictive crap design alloy water pump housing as well.
I'm ditching all that crap and going back to standard stuff.
All the wise older guys on here warned me about overheating and I didn't listen. Stupid me, I should have listened to them in the first place.

Anyway, you now have been warned and there'd plenty of overheating threads on here relating to champion radiators and elec fans. Good luck.
 
1967formulaS said:
I agree with rustyratrod.
I've been battling my overheating issues and chasing my tail for a few weeks now.
A body big block with champion 4 core radiator and twin fans that come with it. Also a restrictive crap design alloy water pump housing as well.
I'm ditching all that crap and going back to standard stuff.
All the wise older guys on here warned me about overheating and I didn't listen. Stupid me, I should have listened to them in the first place.

Anyway, you now have been warned and there'd plenty of overheating threads on here relating to champion radiators and elec fans. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Wisdom doesn't always come with age.

If you use the right parts, I.e. the correct radiator for your application and a fan that is correct for your application, you car will not overheat.

There is no disputing the capability of the correct electric fan setup far exceeds a mechanical fans capabilities.

There is no disputing that the factory setup was built to handle the demands of the engines they were to cool in stock form. I.e. A factory setup is not built to cool a 600hp stroked 360. Not saying it can't, not saying it can. That isn't what it was designed for.
 
Right Rocco, I decided this was for me too. Theres just no denying that a modern cooling system will perform better than a forty year old one. My car came with a factory 318 with cast manifolds, factory AC and a 22 inch radiator, it was also made in Canada. Now I have a mild 360, steel headers, AC and Florida heat to deal with. I don't want a system that is adaquete and worked fine, I want one that has extra capacity built in. My cammed 360 and AC are going to create alot more heat than the car was ever designed for. Set up properly there is no possible way anybody could agrue with modern electrics, I think that the people who had problems did not choose the right set-up, which is why I'm trying to get all the info and experience advice I can before throwing parts at it. Think about this, there are literally a billion with a B, cars made that have electric fan cooling systems, and none of them failed to cool the car with proper attention and mainenance. Except for those GEO metro's, they were just junk...Remember those LOL...
 
PhillH said:
Thank you, but your assuming to much from me, I'm asking because of my ignorance on the subject. Your talking to me about custom calibration, LOL! I have no idea what that options list says. I don't know what the diode pack looks like or where it goes. And that summit thermostat I'm fairly certain isn't wireless. LOL. I;m not looking for a gauge, just some way to tell the controller what temp the engine is. I need a lil more clear instructions please.
Click to expand...

You just need the sender like the link. You have the choice of any of the brand senders listed in the list. If you don't feel comfortable about the custom cal, just use an autometer or dakota digital sender.

PhillH said:
Anybody have a link to the right diode pack?
Click to expand...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00902FVNU/?tag=joeychgo-20

I am actually using that one. My junkyard one actually had a bad one in it and I got the ebay seller to knock the price of a new one off the part. So far so good.

1967formulaS said:
I agree with rustyratrod.
I've been battling my overheating issues and chasing my tail for a few weeks now.
A body big block with champion 4 core radiator and twin fans that come with it. Also a restrictive crap design alloy water pump housing as well.
I'm ditching all that crap and going back to standard stuff.
All the wise older guys on here warned me about overheating and I didn't listen. Stupid me, I should have listened to them in the first place.

Anyway, you now have been warned and there'd plenty of overheating threads on here relating to champion radiators and elec fans. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Once again, having read your post, your shroud was blocking about half your radiator from any free flow...and the fans champion sells are cheap junk. If going back to the "standard stuff" doesn't work...then what?

Pretty much every overheating thread with champion radiators is because someone either chose the wrong one or used their crummy fans/shroud combo. Use good stuff within the design...works fine. Once again, you said nothing relating to a contour fan.
 
By the way Goldduster, your Duster looks really sweet, I wonder how my 71 Scamp would look in white? Not that I'm doing it anytime soon, but I still need to decide as the interior parts need to match. Is that Acrtic White?
 
PhillH said:
By the way Goldduster, your Duster looks really sweet, I wonder how my 71 Scamp would look in white? Not that I'm doing it anytime soon, but I still need to decide as the interior parts need to match. Is that Acrtic White?
Click to expand...

I think they painted it ford van white. It's not the original EW1 Eggshell white. It looks pretty good until you get up close. I think if I got it repainted, I would go with the GM Summit white since my truck is also that color and it's easy to find touch up. I'm sure you can find some pictures of white scamps!
 
goldduster318 said:
You just need the sender like the link. You have the choice of any of the brand senders listed in the list. If you don't feel comfortable about the custom cal, just use an autometer or dakota digital sender.



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00902FVNU/?tag=joeychgo-20

I am actually using that one. My junkyard one actually had a bad one in it and I got the ebay seller to knock the price of a new one off the part. So far so good.



Once again, having read your post, your shroud was blocking about half your radiator from any free flow...and the fans champion sells are cheap junk. If going back to the "standard stuff" doesn't work...then what?

Pretty much every overheating thread with champion radiators is because someone either chose the wrong one or used their crummy fans/shroud combo. Use good stuff within the design...works fine. Once again, you said nothing relating to a contour fan.
Click to expand...

I see your points and 4 weeks ago I would have agreed with you.
However today I pulled the fans and tried some very expensive ones that a friend has on his supercharged hemi car,
They made no difference at all, so we cut the shroud off and extended it a bit so we had more air flow. No difference at all.... Played again with timing, Thermostats, no vac leaks, still no change for the better. So I'm waiting for a friend to drop around another radiator and fan combo that I can try and see if this will work.. Unfortunately there is not much room in an a body running a 440 so I can't extend the shroud any further.
I've sourced a stock water pump and fan, just waiting for it to arrive.

Tomorrow I am going to cut the top and bottom tanks off and make a dual or triple bypass.
Will see how that goes.
I'm persisting with the alloy rad because original or reproduction a body big block radiators are stupidly expensive by the time I can land one here and original ones are rare as, well you know.

Anyway, hope you guys have better luck than me.
 
goldduster318 said:
Pretty much every overheating thread with champion radiators is because someone either chose the wrong one or used their crummy fans/shroud combo. Use good stuff within the design...works fine. Once again, you said nothing relating to a contour fan.
Click to expand...


Bingo.. X2
 
1967formulaS said:
Tomorrow I am going to cut the top and bottom tanks off and make a dual or triple bypass.
Will see how that goes.
I'm persisting with the alloy rad because original or reproduction a body big block radiators are stupidly expensive by the time I can land one here and original ones are rare as, well you know.
Click to expand...

May I make a serious suggestion? I know you are anxious to find a solution but..... Hold off on the double or triple bypass until AFTER you have changed out the water pump and fan and put in a proper shroud with that fan. What I never see mentioned with the double or triple bypass rad setup is that the back pressure in the rad goes up and the overall coolant flow goes down. The temp drop of the coolant increases but the total coolant flow decreases; you need adequate amounts of both to get enough heat exhausted through the rad to make the system work. Where you will end up is with the modified rad flow using a stock water pump is highly variable and it might be worse overall.

By waiting until after you change the fan, then you the reduce the variables you are introducing into the situation. Get a good baseline of how it performs with the mechanical fan and stock pump first.
 
I think there may be some truth to this /\ /\ /\

My temps went down when I went to a HV pump.
 
roccodart440 said:
Wisdom doesn't always come with age.

If you use the right parts, I.e. the correct radiator for your application and a fan that is correct for your application, you car will not overheat.

There is no disputing the capability of the correct electric fan setup far exceeds a mechanical fans capabilities.

There is no disputing that the factory setup was built to handle the demands of the engines they were to cool in stock form. I.e. A factory setup is not built to cool a 600hp stroked 360. Not saying it can't, not saying it can. That isn't what it was designed for.
Click to expand...

I agree. To say that a mechanical fan is superior than an electric......or the other way around is simply wrong.

The key is not buying cheap cookie cutter parts with very poor quality control. The Champion radiators have a sketchy reputation at best. Lots of threads on here involving them with over heating.

That's what happens when you fall for the cheap import stuff. You take a chance on getting something that simply will not work.

Is it all bad? Of course not. But there is such a huge influx of imported parts now there is bound to be a lot of bad parts.

If you want a good cooling system and want a snazzy aluminum radiator, buy a Griffin. If you want a stylish electric fan, make sure to do your research and spend enough coin to get one that flows enough air to keep your beast cool.

Most all of this comes from people unwilling to spend money. This is perhaps why I am so far behind on both my projects. I absolutely refuse to buy inferior stuff. It takes me forever to save up for things, but I am not wasting my money on total crap. Money is too hard to come by.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Most all of this comes from people unwilling to spend money. This is perhaps why I am so far behind on both my projects. I absolutely refuse to buy inferior stuff. It takes me forever to save up for things, but I am not wasting my money on total crap. Money is too hard to come by.
Click to expand...

BOOM!! There it is.

The older I get the more I learn to buy quality and buy it once.
 
I ordered a Champion radiator today, so now I have the harness and the NEW not used fans are coming along with a new radiator, I also ordered a Champion overflow tank, I just need to get the Dakota controller ordered this weekend, or if I'm out there is a speed shop about 20 miles away I could pick it up, they are a Dakota dealer.
Rusty, I hope I don't have to hear "I told you so", I'm going with it. But you'll be glad to here I ordered some spools of high quality wire and a marine grade kit of 3M connector assortments. This way when it does go in and work, I know I have quality wiring that won't be the weak link. See, I also believe in quality parts.
 
I agree on using good parts, however, I've even heard sketchy things about Griffins having "bonding failures". They might be better quality, sure, but unless you're using the universal ones, the price is a bit eye opening. So, I figured I'd "chance it" on the champion which is all welded, and honestly, could be repaired/recored later if needed. The quality isn't phenomenal, but no functional issues.

I've been advocating the used OEM Bosch fans vs the dorman ones if you can because of my experience with other dorman parts (all imported), and their seriously sketchy quality, you need to look only at the trans pan on my dad's 4L60E where you cannot use a copper washer because the drain plug surface is not anywhere near flat. Yes, I used the dorman resistor/diode pack...BUT the failure mode on that doesn't disable high speed. I'm also pretty sure you cannot buy it from ford at this point.

Wiring: solder and heat shrink if at all possible for splices. Or, use the right tool/ends for everything else.
 
Can't speak to griffen but I've used and recommended Be Cool direct replacements for over a decade. Many people shrug it off because of the price tag.
 
goldduster318 said:
dorman parts (all imported), and their seriously sketchy quality, .
Click to expand...

A serious eye opener for me was picking up some Dorman lug nuts....more than one package. If Dorman is unable to supply decent quality wheel nuts......probably one of the most important fasteners on a vehicle!!!!.........it makes you wonder about the LESS important stuff they supply
 
FWIW, I like my electric fan and don't regret it at all. It's a Flex-A-Lite. Keeps my 340 cool.

We've been building a '56 Chevy Stepside with a 5.7 Vortec and we ditched the mechanical fan for electric ones. twin fans w/shroud on an aluminum Be Cool radiator. The fans are controlled by the computer. Works really well.

Both mechanical and electric are good. It's all about personal taste, IMO.
 
To those that have contributed, goldduster and 72blunblu in particular, thank you for a very useful thread. I've been pondering cooling my project and in fear of doing it wrong.

So, I have a 360, like the OP... Mine might be a little more difficult to cool, dyno'd at 555hp. I would like to use the same setup as goldduster. I'll use the parts list in his pdf and give it a shot. I know zero about wiring. This is my first build. And I was thinking of using a Griffin rad but now, not sure......
 
Ooohhhh, I'm gonna get blasted for this... If I had that kind of money in an engine, which is nowhere near what the factory envisioned, no way I would use old school technology to try and keep it safe, good choice.
I received the Dorman fan today, it definately looks to be of OE quality, which means, it may not be the prettiest for a build but looks like it could go on a brand new car and run for 150k miles. Which is exactly what I want for my car. !
For those wondering it did come with the low speed resister, now I know what that does. So $100 shipped, OE quality, twin fans with high and low speed, runs the AC and the $30 resister came with it, SWEET.
 
Another point, but I think it's relavant here. I'm really considering switching to the Evans coolant when I change this out. It's just so exspensive.
 
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