Electrical/starting problems

[RedFish]

We are taking baby steps here over several days. Your post #22 suggests you have power to big stud of starter relay, good. Next there is a dark blue wire with tracer (A1B), it goes from that starter stud to bulhead terminal Z. On the inside it goes to ammeter red connection. Check if that is good.......

In all the harnesses I know, blue with white tracer is only hot after ignition switch, at the on position. That wire feeds voltage regulator, spark ignition, and instrument voltage regulator only. No way related to the starter.
So this 66 harness is totally greek to me or a wiring diagram is wrong ( wouldn't be the first we've seen ).

 

[KitCarlson]

The information I provided is from 66 A-Body wiring diagram, following nodes, color and circuit designations. I have used same diagram on my 66 Barracuda and it seems to work, about the color, not sure.

The wire in question is likely a fusible link, considering it is a #16 feeding the #12 red wire at ammeter.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

We are taking baby steps here over several days. Your post #22 suggests you have power to big stud of starter relay, good. Next there is a dark blue wire with tracer (A1B), it goes from that starter stud to bulhead terminal Z. On the inside it goes to Ignition switch J2. Check if that is good....... My guess, it is not.

When I was checking the ignition switch wiring I did note there was no connection from J2. I think this is the problem. The factory wiring diagram I have and the wiring from this site don't agree so it's been a little confusing but I believe this narrows it down.

 

[KitCarlson]

There is something wrong, my original text, and your quote of my text do not match. Z, goes to ammeter red wire on inside. It is what powers from battery. The alternator feeds the black wire. J2 that goes to ballast resistor goes thru Q, bulkhead terminal, and J2 of ignition switch. It powers ignition in run. They both have dark blue with tracer on engine side, but are not the same circuits.

 

[RedFish]

Our member 4spragtop/steve recently had a wrong wiring diagram spoil his brains too.
I know there can be differences between Dodge Dart and Plymouth Barracuda and I know there can be differences between 6 cyl. and 8 cyl. harnesses. All a-body, same but different.
On the other hand, yours did work before the sparks flew, right ? Wires will shed their insulation and stink but they dont completely disappear as your "J2" reference suggests. I think you should have power to brake lights, headlights, etc.., and going into the ignition switch even without power out at "J2" when switch on.
Without the correct map we would follow the river with a lantern. Use the tester to follow the current.
Sorry I can't be of more help from here.

 

[halifaxhops]

I helped Steve out with that one. I tell you what I had a engine fire and made a new harness up from scratch and had to use three diagrams to get it right.

 

[KitCarlson]

Check my quote in post #26 by Redfish. It is correct.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

Check my quote in post #26 by Redfish. It is correct.

The connection from the starter stud, through the bulkhead connector to ammeter red is a solid connection

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

The information I provided is from 66 A-Body wiring diagram, following nodes, color and circuit designations. I have used same diagram on my 66 Barracuda and it seems to work, about the color, not sure.

The wire in question is likely a fusible link, considering it is a #16 feeding the #12 red wire at ammeter.
View attachment 1714991360

Your diagram matched what I've been using. The fusible link was replaced and connection from starter relay stud to the bulkhead connector is good.

 

[KitCarlson]

Your diagram matched what I've been using. The fusible link was replaced and connection from starter relay stud to the bulkhead connector is good.

Does that mean your problem is fixed? The bulkhead Z connects to Red wire of ammeter, that should have power. Last I knew it did not, so that can only be connector issue at Z. Have you pulled the connector to check? They are Packard 56 series quick connects, and are troublesome after 50 years.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

Does that mean your problem is fixed? The bulkhead Z connects to Red wire of ammeter, that should have power. Last I knew it did not, so that can only be connector issue at Z. Have you pulled the connector to check? They are Packard 56 series quick connects, and are troublesome after 50 years.

The problem hasn't been solved. The connection from the starter relay post, through the fusible link, through the bulkhead connection Z and to the ammeter red wire was checked and is good. Before I started this post I completely disassembled the connectors on the engine side from the bulk head connector and looked at each connection and cleaned up the Packard 56 connectors. I used Deoxit on both the male and female connectors before I reassembled the bulkhead connector.

 

[KitCarlson]

Not trying to be difficult, but problem not solved is not specific. Sounds like you have done cleaning and visual of connectors, but what does the meter say? If you have voltage at red/black ammeter connections, the next step is going further from there on schematic. Looking for voltage at switch, fuse box... If no voltage at red/black then what you think is good is not, or the following about ground could be the problem.
There is an engine to body firewall ground at rear passenger side, above heater fan. If it is broke, measuring voltage from engine ground will be good, but not from body. So, without it, body electrical will not work unless grounding by linkages and bearings, a very bad thing.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

Not trying to be difficult, but problem not solved is not specific. Sounds like you have done cleaning and visual of connectors, but what does the meter say? If you have voltage at red/black ammeter connections, the next step is going further from there on schematic. Looking for voltage at switch, fuse box... If no voltage at red/black then what you think is good is not, or the following about ground could be the problem.
There is an engine to body firewall ground at rear passenger side, above heater fan. If it is broke, measuring voltage from engine ground will be good, but not from body. So, without it, body electrical will not work unless grounding by linkages and bearings, a very bad thing.

Finally solved the problem! When I replaced the R6 line from the interior through the bulkhead then to alternator batt , I made no connection to the weld splice. As a result, there was no connection from the weld splice to the amp gauge. I discovered this when tracing J1 from the ignition switch. After I restored the connection to the weld splice and amp gauge everything worked. Thank you for your support and understanding.

 

[KitCarlson]

It is great you got it fixed. You paid your dues on this one, and learned much. It will be much easier next time. The good feeling of fixing, is what drives us to do things.