F.I. Tech or Holley sniper. Opinions from users.

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LJ67barracuda340 said:
I have run a FiTech 600 for 2 seasons,,,like it ,,but a friend has a new hotrod with a Sniper system on it that Ill be working with him on. Similar systems but Ill report my preference after a bit of time..
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This will be good info! Looking forward to it.
 
dusted said:
I’m pulling the trigger on a megasquirt 2 for the duster so I will post those results. It’s gonna be hard to beat the FITech.
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It's been a few months, but how's the progress on the MegaSquirt 2? Have details on that?
 
JoesEdge said:
It's been a few months, but how's the progress on the MegaSquirt 2? Have details on that?
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No progress on it, sorry. Just been driving and enjoying it. I’ve changed focus to my Turbo truck since I sold the entire drivetrain and FiTech out of it . It’s going to late model hemi and if I can’t get the donor harness to work out, it’s getting the megasquirt 2. I will keep ya informed.
If I had it to do all over again, I would do the super sniper from holley instead of the FI tech.
 
I'll be watching. I am switching projects soon and FI is on the top of my list.
 
gzig5 said:
Has anyone seen a comparison of the ProFlow 4 port injection system vs the TBI types like the Sniper? I'm curious how much/what the port injection brings to the table for the additional cost. I'm thinking the current small block one. You could run the same PF4 intake and mount the Sniper on it for an apples to apples comparison. I'm going to do it down the road and I like the idea of port injection but only if there is an obvious benefit for my use.
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If you need a manifold and distributor anyway there is really no cost penalty in purchasing the Pro Flo 4 and the benefits are many - port injection, o.e. quality components, remote blue tooth tablet, dashboard control, an ECU that can be mounted well clear of engine heat and more!

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dusted said:
No progress on it, sorry. Just been driving and enjoying it. I’ve changed focus to my Turbo truck since I sold the entire drivetrain and FiTech out of it . It’s going to late model hemi and if I can’t get the donor harness to work out, it’s getting the megasquirt 2. I will keep ya informed.
If I had it to do all over again, I would do the super sniper from holley instead of the FI tech.
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Good luck on the Hemi project! Totally understandable that you went a different direction. It happens all the time. I did emphasize what you said about Holley.

I've been following the Sniper and it seems that it's light years ahead of FiTech in terms of software and engineering. Holley keeps coming out with new models for different applications. They have a new XFlo for higher horsepower applications.

Seems like Holley is putting some serious $$$ into R&D which means people are buying them. Not only that, but you can data log and use the computer software on a laptop to tune your Sniper and timing with their HyperSpark hall effect distributor. Plenty of YouTube videos illustrating how it's done too. Not sure if FiTech has that type of tuning software available for the laptop.

Cal Tonsley said:
If you need a manifold and distributor anyway there is really no cost penalty in purchasing the Pro Flo 4 and the benefits are many - port injection, o.e. quality components, remote blue tooth tablet, dashboard control, an ECU that can be mounted well clear of engine heat and more!
View attachment 1715406294
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I'm on board with the Pro Flo 4, but I have yet to see one running on a small block Mopar either in person or on YouTube. I emphasized small block because I have seen it running on Big Blocks, but that's a separate animal. I do see your point though. A Sniper + HyperSpark distributor and ignition will cost you nearly as much as an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4.
 
Cal Tonsley said:
If you need a manifold and distributor anyway there is really no cost penalty in purchasing the Pro Flo 4 and the benefits are many - port injection, o.e. quality components, remote blue tooth tablet, dashboard control, an ECU that can be mounted well clear of engine heat and more!

View attachment 1715406294
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Good points on the distributor/manifold, and there really isn't anything I don't like about the PF4. I'm still really curious about the differences from a technical point. The port injection should give more power and fuel economy, or the OEMs wouldn't be using it on every car they build. But how much better is it? Does it get even better with an intake specifically designed for port injection instead of a carb?
 
JoesEdge said:
Good luck on the Hemi project! Totally understandable that you went a different direction. It happens all the time. I did emphasize what you said about Holley.

I've been following the Sniper and it seems that it's light years ahead of FiTech in terms of software and engineering. Holley keeps coming out with new models for different applications. They have a new XFlo for higher horsepower applications.

Seems like Holley is putting some serious $$$ into R&D which means people are buying them. Not only that, but you can data log and use the computer software on a laptop to tune your Sniper and timing with their HyperSpark hall effect distributor. Plenty of YouTube videos illustrating how it's done too. Not sure if FiTech has that type of tuning software available for the laptop.



I'm on board with the Pro Flo 4, but I have yet to see one running on a small block Mopar either in person or on YouTube. I emphasized small block because I have seen it running on Big Blocks, but that's a separate animal. I do see your point though. A Sniper + HyperSpark distributor and ignition will cost you nearly as much as an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4.
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FI Tech doesnthe same thing with data logging and timing control, via a laptop. I follow both the FI Tech and Sniper on FB groups and they both have their problems (99 percent, user error) I went with the FI Tech, myself.

I think it's all user preference. FI Tech is compatible with e85, boost and nitrous as long as you get the right model.
 
:popcorn:
The Pro Flo does look good. I already have an RPM Air Gap though, but I know I could sell that. I'm torn because I wanted to keep a "period correct" look, & a Sniper would hide pretty well under the drop base air cleaner.
 
I all comes down to your overall goal. If you just wanted drive ability and cruise to the Sonic then a drop on TB is the way to go. Most guys have have no interest in timing contol, boost retard....etc. just hit the key and ride
 
I bought a Fi Tech Go4 600 in 2015, didnt go into service till 2017 in the restoration. Engine has been making good power and mileage (hot cruiser) but I've always been making adjustments. 2018 they sent me a warrentee fuel injector (sticking, running rich). 2019 they sent 2 more and I bought 2 to change all four, same problem but different position in the TB. A couple of weeks ago I'm cruising and it's running sweet until I get a couple of hickups and after I shut it off, wont restart. Fuel pump is not working, changed the FP. Started but when warm it wouldn't restart. I checked the 6 pin harness, the FP connection is burnt. Bypass the connector and it starts and idles, even has water dripping from tailpipes (condensation, not coolant), AFR is staying at target. Until it gets to 170* and goes closed loop, AFR starts cycling from 10 to 20 some of the 5 day old injectors are shutting off and coming back on, others are running rich (trying to compensate maybe) and RPM is all over the place. Called FiTech and tech says probably ECU. Sent the TB back to Riverside and now I'm waiting for a diagnosis. If it's needs an ECU and nothing else shipping, parts, labor I'll be in for another $600 ish. I liked the EFI until now, I just dont know. Maybe carb in my future, hope not. Maybe all my adjustments and parts changed was the ECU all along from start.
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
I bought a Fi Tech Go4 600 in 2015, didnt go into service till 2017 in the restoration. Engine has been making good power and mileage (hot cruiser) but I've always been making adjustments. 2018 they sent me a warrentee fuel injector (sticking, running rich). 2019 they sent 2 more and I bought 2 to change all four, same problem but different position in the TB. A couple of weeks ago I'm cruising and it's running sweet until I get a couple of hickups and after I shut it off, wont restart. Fuel pump is not working, changed the FP. Started but when warm it wouldn't restart. I checked the 6 pin harness, the FP connection is burnt. Bypass the connector and it starts and idles, even has water dripping from tailpipes (condensation, not coolant), AFR is staying at target. Until it gets to 170* and goes closed loop, AFR starts cycling from 10 to 20 some of the 5 day old injectors are shutting off and coming back on, others are running rich (trying to compensate maybe) and RPM is all over the place. Called FiTech and tech says probably ECU. Sent the TB back to Riverside and now I'm waiting for a diagnosis. If it's needs an ECU and nothing else shipping, parts, labor I'll be in for another $600 ish. I liked the EFI until now, I just dont know. Maybe carb in my future, hope not. Maybe all my adjustments and parts changed was the ECU all along from start.
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Ive read alot of folks having trouble with the ECU, but what I can determine, is folks weren't using relays on their fuel pumps, thus overloading the main connector and frying the ECU. I also think, FI Tech is a little to blame due to their poor instructions on that matter.
 
Also i was running the pump on pwm. Tanks said i killed the pump ( gss 340) because of that but i tested the old pump after i got it changed and i think its a good spare. I think ecu was the prob not pump.
 
If that is the case than Fitech did a poor job with wiring internal to the fuel pump. Posts a while back said their was a problem with a soldered connection in the ECU causing the no start when hot. I had mine on for 2 years and 1400 miles before problem cropped up. You'll never know the feeling of a no start condition till it happens to you. Then you see your Baby on the flat bed going home. It started and ran fine next day when cold but after running and hot refused to start again. By the way I do have a relay on the fuel pump, and the ECU just turns on the relay.
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
If i remember right theyre instruction say not to u dont need to
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That's what I am saying. Their instructions were written as if you were using THEIR frame mounted pump, which draws less than 15 amps, therefore not needing a relay. Any pump drawing more than that needs a relay. In my opinion, you should run a relay, regardless.
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
Also i was running the pump on pwm. Tanks said i killed the pump ( gss 340) because of that but i tested the old pump after i got it changed and i think its a good spare. I think ecu was the prob not pump.
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I have also read this. I am using a Walboro from tanks, inc, with their tank and you have to set the PWM to 100% or the pump will die. Again, I believe, FI TECH instructions don't speak to this.
 
tonysrt said:
If that is the case than Fitech did a poor job with wiring internal to the fuel pump. Posts a while back said their was a problem with a soldered connection in the ECU causing the no start when hot. I had mine on for 2 years and 1400 miles before problem cropped up. You'll never know the feeling of a no start condition till it happens to you. Then you see your Baby on the flat bed going home. It started and ran fine next day when cold but after running and hot refused to start again. By the way I do have a relay on the fuel pump, and the ECU just turns on the relay.
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I think ill do the relay this time. The tech did say " you have a 6 pin? Oh thats an old one" they use 4 an 2 pin now with upgraded wire.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
That's what I am saying. Their instructions were written as if you were using THEIR frame mounted pump, which draws less than 15 amps, therefore not needing a relay. Any pump drawing more than that needs a relay. In my opinion, you should run a relay, regardless.
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I think the in tank 340 is rated at 12 amp
 
All this new technology hasn't been proven over the long run. Us guys are the ones that are testing their equipment in the real world and we find the short comings of their product. That's why Auto makers have recalls. Just look at the timing chain problems on the Challengers when they came out with the MDS and the variable cam timing. Everything was OK in the testing but in the real world the chains were failing regularly. They tried several different attempts to fix it, but still had more problems. So the Companies finding out were their product fails should be thanking us because with our input they improve the product.
 
tonysrt said:
All this new technology hasn't been proven over the long run. Us guys are the ones that are testing their equipment in the real world and we find the short comings of their product. That's why Auto makers have recalls. Just look at the timing chain problems on the Challengers when they came out with the MDS and the variable cam timing. Everything was OK in the testing but in the real world the chains were failing regularly. They tried several different attempts to fix it, but still had more problems. So the Companies finding out were their product fails should be thanking us because with our input they improve the product.
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Be nice if they said thanks instead of oh oh your out of warrantee, pay up.
 
I have to admit that after FiTech tested my unit and said $325 for new ECU and $80 for troubleshooting, I got on the phone and bitched and they warranted it. But my car was real world testing and they I guess they appreciated it by warranting the unit, but of course they wouldn't admit to having problems with the ECU.
 
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