Finally, my first 360 and goals for it! I'll be asking a lot of questions.

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trebor75 said:
I'm confused. The shop manual goes on about how important it is to have nb 1 cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke before removing the cam and be sure not to move the crank after this. Are you saying I should turn it over to tdc on nr 6 cylinder, align dot to dot and then turn it over to nr 1 again???

Just out of curiosity, why cant I just install the cam just the same position as the one I took out?
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yes you can do it in the same position you're at now, just use a straight edge to line up dots. its just easier to align them in #6 position, especially if you don't plan on degreeing the cam, which i'm sure you'll hear lots about if you're not!
 
rigger3006 said:
yes you can do it in the same position you're at now, just use a straight edge to line up dots. its just easier to align them in #6 position, especially if you don't plan on degreeing the cam, which i'm sure you'll hear lots about if you're not!
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Thanks. First things first I guess :)
 
trebor75 said:
Thanks. First things first I guess :)
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It will be easy once You have the dots lined up either way,...just remember this...... put a lifter in the block for intake #1(2nd lifter bore back on the left side bank).
Roll the engine clockwise & watch the lifter, when it is on the way down, the next time the piston is up is TDC compression....that's it.
 
If you are going to let the engine set for awhile, I would leave the intake loose, I use those small acid brush to recoat the cam lobes with paste, and put a small dap of paste on the bottom of the lifter...coat the body or the lifter gallery with regular motor oil...the lifter needs to be free to move to break in the cam...then bolt on intake manifold...

Plus prior to putting intake on....prime the engine with the oil pump...and slowly move the engine by hand ....
 
70aarcuda said:
If you are going to let the engine set for awhile, I would leave the intake loose, I use those small acid brush to recoat the cam lobes with paste, and put a small dap of paste on the bottom of the lifter...coat the body or the lifter gallery with regular motor oil...the lifter needs to be free to move to break in the cam...then bolt on intake manifold...

Plus prior to putting intake on....prime the engine with the oil pump...and slowly move the engine by hand ....
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Thanks. I was thinking along those lines.
 
Killer6 said:
It will be easy once You have the dots lined up either way,...just remember this...... put a lifter in the block for intake #1(2nd lifter bore back on the left side bank).
Roll the engine clockwise & watch the lifter, when it is on the way down, the next time the piston is up is TDC compression....that's it.
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Thanks!
 
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_474f.jpg


Making progress on the porting.
 
RAMM said:
You're bowl work looks really good, just don't get greedy and find water. J.Rob
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Thanks! I have never ported before. 318willruns videos on YouTube gave me the courage to try it. It is taking me ages. I work them some every time I'm in the garage. I dont think I dare to take more material now. So I will start polish everything with sandpaper rolls. Would you consider the surface on the picture good enough, they say "leave the intake ports" a little rougher?
 
Like RAMM said... don't overdo it for the first time. And you won't probably feel the difference in surface finish in your butt-o-meter once you have the engine finished and installed.
 
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_4758.jpg

I'm just about finished with the porting. Been cleaning parts to get a break from the bodywork I'm doing on the Duster. I think the 360 build will come to a halt for a while now. I have decided to matte the whole car down and do a full respray. My friend who works at a body shop will do the painting. I settled on a similar color, I think it will appear a bit darker and less yellow though. Here it is last summer. I'm pumped to get it painted! It looks good on pictures, but I know all the flaws on it :)
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I would polish the exhaust ports, not the intakes. Buffers for dremels will make the exhaust side looked like polished aluminum :)
 
Picking up on my 360 project again. Inspected my valves today.

Exhaust Valves look like this:
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and intake:
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Exhaust valves are pitted and worn. Who makes a stock replacement exhaust valve? Stock head dia and stem dia?
 
Thank you guys. Yes, I figured I might be better off just getting new exhaust valves. The Intake valves look way better and are within specs of slop in the guides. I might get away with just lapping them.
 
They aren't gonna go very far, the guides are worn, but what the heck, at least you get an idea if the port work ...worked, by how it feels in comparison.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
They aren't gonna go very far, the guides are worn, but what the heck, at least you get an idea if the port work ...worked, by how it feels in comparison.
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The guides with excessive slop will be machined, so will the seats, but only if the machinist deems it necessary.
 
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