FiTech EFI system

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Their new MPFI can easily be adapted to Mopar right now. There is an Edelbrock manifold they use on Pro Flow system, Hughes/RPM AG . We are actively working on becoming dealers for them and might put a kit together for Mopars now. We just got our FI Tech compatible fuel line kits to go with our FI pump in tank package last week. Stay tuned. We are working really hard to get you guys what you need to make it super easy. Evan
 
I will give them a call this week and get some info on distributor requirements, cam/crank sensor requirements for MPFI .I already have one of the Edelbrock Victor FI type intakes, injectors and rails I was using to build my own system so it would be easy to get it rolling.
 
We have ran them on the dyno, but no track time.
Torque curve was smoother, as it seemed to like the annular discharge.
peak HP on a 300 ish hp engine was about the same.
 
Took car to race track last Saturday....

73 Duster...made 3 runs during the TnT....12.86...12.84...then 12.75....the car is sensitive to what rpm you launch at...lower it runs faster...flashes converter...the throttle linkage on the EFI is very stiff....i have a very small spring on it....hard to go thru tech without a spring on it...I removed the spring on one pass ..did not make a difference...stiff and hard to feel the pedal to get up on the converter..

start bracket race...12.83 on 1st time run...2nd time run car bogs so bad...i have to take foot out of throttle to get it to move... reaction time started with a .7

1st round ..dial 12.81...come up on converter like earlier runs...car bogs...reaction time is 1.2 seconds...car basically does not move...

the Fitech 12.75 run is the same as what the 750 dp ran......Have no clue as why the Fitech bogged so bad...So it ran pretty good for 4 passes...then BOG....

Well...I think I am done with this experiment....I have no clue on turning the Fitech...I am pretty good with tuning the holley..

tech support is not open on Saturdays went i am the races...plus I still have the cold start problem...
 
70aarcuda said:
Took car to race track last Saturday....

73 Duster...made 3 runs during the TnT....12.86...12.84...then 12.75....the car is sensitive to what rpm you launch at...lower it runs faster...flashes converter...the throttle linkage on the EFI is very stiff....i have a very small spring on it....hard to go thru tech without a spring on it...I removed the spring on one pass ..did not make a difference...stiff and hard to feel the pedal to get up on the converter..

start bracket race...12.83 on 1st time run...2nd time run car bogs so bad...i have to take foot out of throttle to get it to move... reaction time started with a .7

1st round ..dial 12.81...come up on converter like earlier runs...car bogs...reaction time is 1.2 seconds...car basically does not move...

the Fitech 12.75 run is the same as what the 750 dp ran......Have no clue as why the Fitech bogged so bad...So it ran pretty good for 4 passes...then BOG....

Well...I think I am done with this experiment....I have no clue on turning the Fitech...I am pretty good with tuning the holley..

tech support is not open on Saturdays went i am the races...plus I still have the cold start problem...
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Did you buy this from us? Be glad to help open up the tech channels if so.
 
I haven't used the Fitech yet - just ordered one, but we just completed two Terminator installations. Both needed cold start enrichment tuning. Once done, all was good. I assume the fitech has something similar.
 
70aarcuda said:
bought it from FiTech.com...
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send me your email via pm, and i'll get and email to them, with your bogging and cold start issues. They respond rather quick when i email them directly.

just come to me next time :)

thanks.
 
Well, I just pulled the trigger on a 600hp unit and fuel command center. We'll see how it goes. FiTech is having a "production delay" so it may be a few weeks before it gets here.

In the mean time, I need to decide if I'm going to keep an electric carb pump in the back of the car, or go back to a mechanical pump to feed the FCC. I already have 3/8 line in the car, and a Holley regulator...but I'm thinking a mechanical pump will be more reliable than another electirc that is pulling fuel the first 2 feet from the tank, and will be dead heading into the FCC/regulator.
 
I would really like to hear update on the track bog issue when you get some info back 70arrcuda
 
I'm having a problem with mine, if it's been driven for awhile and all warmed up. If I pull in someplace and shut it off. Get back in after 5 minutes, it will fire right up, run for about a second and then die. Then I have to crank on it for a bit before it will start back up. Then it will run fine. Sort of annoying.
 
rednesss said:
I'm having a problem with mine, if it's been driven for awhile and all warmed up. If I pull in someplace and shut it off. Get back in after 5 minutes, it will fire right up, run for about a second and then die. Then I have to crank on it for a bit before it will start back up. Then it will run fine. Sort of annoying.
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What fuel system are you running?
 
rednesss said:
I'm having a problem with mine, if it's been driven for awhile and all warmed up. If I pull in someplace and shut it off. Get back in after 5 minutes, it will fire right up, run for about a second and then die. Then I have to crank on it for a bit before it will start back up. Then it will run fine. Sort of annoying.
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Same here, and it seems mostly to do with the cranking and 'after start' fueling. Problem is, if I can get it to fire back up after 5 mins of sitting, then it won't refire if I shut it off, then try to restart right after. But if I can get it to immediately restart, it doesn't like to start after a sit 'n wait. Kind of annoying.

Also check the fault codes, I keep getting "RPM noise" which causes it to read 2-3k during cranking and overly advances the timing (using the ECU to control my timing too) causing kickback.

I'm sure it's only a matter of time before I get it dialed in, but in the meantime I burned out my starter :violent1:
 
rednesss said:
I'm running the fuel command center.
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I would say bad check valve in the fuel system, but signal noise issue sounds more promising. I would make sure the system is wired correctly and away from anything that could create this noise. Like routing the command center wire and dist pick-up wire together.
 
Did anybody figure out if you can run a bigger than a 3x3 matrix with a laptop on this system?
 
After being out of town and getting the parts delivered and weekends without parts and time all at once, I finally got it up and running. Thanks Magnum.
I had some issues...I have an MSD Streetfire ignition, FITech, and an MSD billet distibutor. I wanted to run the timing control on the FITech which is why I got the MSD distibutor and locked it out.
So I went to fire up the system and as soon as I turned on the key the injectors started firing. After calling FITech we determined that the distributor had to be bad because after we unplugged it from the FITech unit the injectors would quit firing, plug it back in and the handheld would read between 6-700 rpms without the engine even running, so they are getting a false signal. I return the distributor and get a replacement, plug it in and all is good, spin the rotor by hand ad the injectors fire like they are supposed to. Then I install the distributor and the same problem? So I bypassed the timing control on the FITech, using the MSD ignition and hit the key, fires right up, runs fantastic. Now I have to figure out whats causing this or pull the distibutor AGAIN.... and unlock it. Calling FITech in the morn to see if we can get to the bottom of it.
 
PhillH said:
After being out of town and getting the parts delivered and weekends without parts and time all at once, I finally got it up and running. Thanks Magnum.
I had some issues...I have an MSD Streetfire ignition, FITech, and an MSD billet distibutor. I wanted to run the timing control on the FITech which is why I got the MSD distibutor and locked it out.
So I went to fire up the system and as soon as I turned on the key the injectors started firing. After calling FITech we determined that the distributor had to be bad because after we unplugged it from the FITech unit the injectors would quit firing, plug it back in and the handheld would read between 6-700 rpms without the engine even running, so they are getting a false signal. I return the distributor and get a replacement, plug it in and all is good, spin the rotor by hand ad the injectors fire like they are supposed to. Then I install the distributor and the same problem? So I bypassed the timing control on the FITech, using the MSD ignition and hit the key, fires right up, runs fantastic. Now I have to figure out whats causing this or pull the distibutor AGAIN.... and unlock it. Calling FITech in the morn to see if we can get to the bottom of it.
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Mine started to do that, figured out the blue tach wire was making contact despite my best efforts. Fixed that and the problem went away.
 
Ordered one up today from Pace Performance. Going on my drag car. Looking for consistency. We shall see if its money well spent
 
My msd pro billet distributor does not work. I'm running a factory distributor with out issue. I replaced the mag pick up in the msd with out change. It runs but will shut off with out warning or miss fire under wide open thottle. MSD told me my coil was too close. Never heard of such.
 
340Duster247 said:
This might be a dumb question...but can you still run a 2step with this system?
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I emailed fi tech about a two step and they said no. They also said they were working on a Mean Street edition that they were working on that would work with a two step and to watch when it hits the market. Well it has.

So I called them to confirm if it would work with a two step and the man there (Cody was his name) said that's not true they will all work with a two step as long as you don't ues the FI timing function

Hope that sheds some light on it
 
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