FiTech EFI system

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We use tanks inc tanks. I run 2 factory metal lines and adapt teflon lined hose for a short run on the tank side and on the throttle body side to make the connections.
 
Lustle said:
Hey johnny I had some questions I was gunna PM you but I figured I'd put it in here in case any other's are wondering.

With the electric fuel pump side kit, do you know if it will pass nhra tech? I plan on making some passes at the nearby track this summer. I know "woven push lock" hose can pass. Just wondering if their's will.

Now this next question might have been asked or could be on their tech sheets, so forgive me if I ask again. Can I run timing but keep my outside ignition box? I think I've seen you say that you can run MSD for spark but have the FItech unit control timing. I have a rev-n-nator box that I like, but eventually I would like the FI unit to control timing.

And a final third question lol. I am going to change my exhaust and run crankcase evac into the exhaust itself. I imagine I have to put the evac down wind from the fi unit or the evac could play with the O2 sensor. But I'm wondering if anyone has run this setup and has it caused any problems, say when there is a little more back pressure and the evac doesn't exhaust as quick.

That's about all I've thought about lately. Thanks Johnny for all your help on this stuff.
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Hello, glad to help.

Their hose is actually Russel if I remember right. If its not that its earls. So considering that passes, I believe you are good. I still prefer braided for a track car, but thats your call. On something you drove there for street class...I doubt you will get any flack.

Yes you can keep your box. Somewhere a few pages back I posted the wiring diagrams. Its one of the options.

Your last one is a bit more technical, as its a little more than just a fitech question. I would never, ever run an evap kit into a full exhaust. Thats asking for oil to pool in your mufflers, and even excessive "sucking" oil out the breathers.

But...the sensor wont like being downstream of an evap, or being within 18 inches of the exhaust end, and also needs to be ten degrees off the horizon.
 
johnnymac2k6 said:
Hello, glad to help.

Their hose is actually Russel if I remember right. If its not that its earls. So considering that passes, I believe you are good. I still prefer braided for a track car, but thats your call. On something you drove there for street class...I doubt you will get any flack.

Yes you can keep your box. Somewhere a few pages back I posted the wiring diagrams. Its one of the options.

Your last one is a bit more technical, as its a little more than just a fitech question. I would never, ever run an evap kit into a full exhaust. Thats asking for oil to pool in your mufflers, and even excessive "sucking" oil out the breathers.

But...the sensor wont like being downstream of an evap, or being within 18 inches of the exhaust end, and also needs to be ten degrees off the horizon.
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Hey Johnny thanks for the answers.

I do plan on going braided, but I was thinking for initial install and run I'd use their setup before making up some fancy hoses (we got a crimper at my work so it'll be all pro-build style stuff). But it's easier playing with push loc first.

I thought you could keep the box, just wanted to triple check.

As for evac, I figured it wouldn't like being anywhere near there. Now I'm curious if anyone has run that before. It won't be a "full" exhaust. I'm going 3" side exit with most likely straight through dynomax bullet mufflers. Gunna be loud but fun. I'm not too worried about oil pooling. My engine makes good crankcase pressure, it has a habit of blowing it out the breather occasionally and dirtying up my engine bay. Some guys say that's a "bad sign" but I've worked with a lot of race engines that would paint the under hood black and ran great all season. It's just I hate having to clean it all the time. I'm not set on doing crankcase exhaust evac, but it was a thought for helping alleviate the oil blowing out the breather. It's that or start zip tiying a cloth around them hahaha.

I appreciate your answers! If the canadian dollar keeps getting better you'll have an order from me soon.
 
Lustle said:
Hey Johnny thanks for the answers.

I do plan on going braided, but I was thinking for initial install and run I'd use their setup before making up some fancy hoses (we got a crimper at my work so it'll be all pro-build style stuff). But it's easier playing with push loc first.

I thought you could keep the box, just wanted to triple check.

As for evac, I figured it wouldn't like being anywhere near there. Now I'm curious if anyone has run that before. It won't be a "full" exhaust. I'm going 3" side exit with most likely straight through dynomax bullet mufflers. Gunna be loud but fun. I'm not too worried about oil pooling. My engine makes good crankcase pressure, it has a habit of blowing it out the breather occasionally and dirtying up my engine bay. Some guys say that's a "bad sign" but I've worked with a lot of race engines that would paint the under hood black and ran great all season. It's just I hate having to clean it all the time. I'm not set on doing crankcase exhaust evac, but it was a thought for helping alleviate the oil blowing out the breather. It's that or start zip tiying a cloth around them hahaha.

I appreciate your answers! If the canadian dollar keeps getting better you'll have an order from me soon.
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I steal my wifes pony tail scrunchies to put around the breather base.lol I can't say i've ever tried an evap with mufflers. I think A dynomax style muffler with packing would saturate even worst than a chamber muffler. The "right" way to do it with mufflers is probably with a vac pump, and a catch can...but thats another discussion :)

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Goody-Large-Black-Scrunchies-8-count/10320327
 
hey johnnymac do you think the 1200 hp power adder system will be offered in a polished version ? if so ..... when .
 
Hey Jim,

I truthfully don't know. Being thats not as quick of a mover as the others, it probably wouldn't receive a silver finish until they are all caught up with current demand.

If you're serious about a silver finish 1200, i can talk to them and see if they can be persuaded into a silver one, but hat will depend upon at what point in their assembly process they apply the coating..and if it's all at one facility or not.

anyways, send me a PM if/when you're ready and i'll see if i can work anything out.


for anyone else monitoring stock.. i have, 13 GO-EFI (30002), and even 6 GO-STREET (30001), landing next week.
 
Going through the manual, the unit has 3 intake ports and 1 return port.

Can more than 1 intake port be used, for example, with a dual pump surge tank?
Eg. Could the 2nd pump be plumbed straight into the Fitech unit at a different intake port, or should both be plumbed into the same intake port?
 
My car is giving me trouble again. I have the frame mount pump from FiTech. Drove it 25 miles to work and back. A mile from the house it quit. Turn the key and looked at the fuel pressure gauge, no fuel pressure. The pump sounded a little whiney. It was warm to the touch. I let it sit a few minutes and it fired right up. Almost like a clogged fuel. Filter. I put it in the garage. New tank, new pump, new filters. I'll start with filters but may have to get a new pump. Not crazy about the frame mount pump. In tank would be much better.
 
russhal said:
My car is giving me trouble again. I have the frame mount pump from FiTech. Drove it 25 miles to work and back. A mile from the house it quit. Turn the key and looked at the fuel pressure gauge, no fuel pressure. The pump sounded a little whiney. It was warm to the touch. I let it sit a few minutes and it fired right up. Almost like a clogged fuel. Filter. I put it in the garage. New tank, new pump, new filters. I'll start with filters but may have to get a new pump. Not crazy about the frame mount pump. In tank would be much better.
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is your gas tank vented those pumps will suck but not much .

the pumps that fi-tech uses looks to be the walbro 392 255lph. these pumps are top quallity and are used as oem punps by many companys. usually when a punp is warm and noisey is likely starved for fuel . the intank pump is the same as the frame mount in a different case .
 
first thing i would do is make sure you have a vent and if so make sure its not pluged then i would next check the sock in your tank for dirt and crap . good luck.
 
New pickup in the tank. They told the pump is actually a Bosch pump. Everything is new and replaced the vent lines. It's a 71 and some strange looking thing by the filler tube in the trunk that the vent lines hook to. I agree the pumps are reliable. Not the best set up using the factory pickup for pump that pushes. I'm checking the pre filter first. Didn't get to it today. It does act just like a clogged filter the way it sat for few and then built pressure and got me home.
 
russhal said:
New pickup in the tank. They told the pump is actually a Bosch pump. Everything is new and replaced the vent lines. It's a 71 and some strange looking thing by the filler tube in the trunk that the vent lines hook to. I agree the pumps are reliable. Not the best set up using the factory pickup for pump that pushes. I'm checking the pre filter first. Didn't get to it today. It does act just like a clogged filter the way it sat for few and then built pressure and got me home.
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This has always been my philosophy. Not that the frame rail pump isn't a quality piece. I do fully believe though that a pusher pump, is not the best solution for an uphill, puller style (oem pickup) setup. I try to tell those who order from me that those are pusher pumps, and if you want to use one, I reccomend a sumped tank, or a fuel cell. Hence when the FCC starts making more sense.

The pusher pump on a puller setup will stir up some controversy though with people claiming it has worked for them for years, so I tried to save it for the conversation for my customers when ordering.opposed to a holy war on here.
 
That strange looking thing is part of the vent system, all my fuel system was shoddy and I replaced it all except that vent system tube thing. I had no idea if it was good or bad but it seemed to work. If I had problems it would be the first thing I looked at. There is alot of tubing in it that could be clogged. I checked that they all passed air thru them, it has different length tubes in it so if the tank vents from any corner based on how the car is parked on a hill one will always be upstream. I have since eliminated it for the FiTech system. If you want more info on how this convoluted system works download a Factory Service Manual.
I really like your Dart.
 
The CJ FiTech system is starting to come together. I had to fabricate and weld up a bracket for the FCC. More to come :)

I've got the 2 wire MSD Dizzy locked out and ready for the FiTech to control ignition. I'm interested to see how it works. I will also be controlling and electric radiator fan with it.
 

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So I'm almost ready to fire it all up (still need to drop the tank to get rid of the bad in tank pump and replace the sender with the old style).

Question for everyone (and Johnny :)),

This is a new engine install that ran with a really badly done used GM TBI setup. I removed all that, put in a mild cam, new intake, and new dizzy. I've lined up the dizzy to fire plug one and the engine is at exactly TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder one. The FiTech will be controlling timing through a locked MSD billet Distributor (2 wire).

Do I need to do anything else before start up? Do I need to set 10 or 12 degrees of base timing prior to start, or does the timing control take care of all that during setup?

And I haven't even really fussed with phasing the distributor either.... How important is that? And yeah, I'm a newb when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks for any input.
 
BillCJ said:
So I'm almost ready to fire it all up (still need to drop the tank to get rid of the bad in tank pump and replace the sender with the old style).

Question for everyone (and Johnny :)),

This is a new engine install that ran with a really badly done used GM TBI setup. I removed all that, put in a mild cam, new intake, and new dizzy. I've lined up the dizzy to fire plug one and the engine is at exactly TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder one. The FiTech will be controlling timing through a locked MSD billet Distributor (2 wire).

Do I need to do anything else before start up? Do I need to set 10 or 12 degrees of base timing prior to start, or does the timing control take care of all that during setup?

And I haven't even really fussed with phasing the distributor either.... How important is that? And yeah, I'm a newb when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks for any input.
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When I was looking into using this set up to control timing IIRC you set initial timing and then put that info into handheld controller.
 
Personally if I was firing up with a new cam, I would leave the timing to your existing setup intitially.. as Fitech recommends, then once the fuel system is working to your liking, you switch over to let it control timing as well.

Ken
 
ken5124 said:
Personally if I was firing up with a new cam, I would leave the timing to your existing setup intitially.. as Fitech recommends, then once the fuel system is working to your liking, you switch over to let it control timing as well.

Ken
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Already broke in the cam with the previous crappy TBI. Installed a new distributor and got rid of the HEI GM stuff as well after the cam was broken in.

I have an MSD adjustable rotor on the way so I should be able to fiddle with it and get things squared away.
 
Ok sounds good. I set my initial or base at 15. Then You tell the Handheld that your initial is 15. then you can change the idle advance higher if you want.
One it is running good, they recommend hooking a timing light up and revving it to 4000 rpm.
Compare that what the timing your light is seeing matches what the handheld is displaying at 4000. if it is off slightly there is a setting(VR ADVANCE 4000) to balance at higher rpm. This VRadvance 4000 setting is not for you to put in the timing you want at 4000 ( I made that mistake), but to alter the timing by a few degrees if the comparison isn't exact.

For example if at 4000 the timing light says 32 and the handheld says 30, you can add 2 degrees to the VRADVANCE 4000 setting

Hope that helps!

Ken
 
Checked my fuel filters and they were clean as expected. The pre filter is a real nice 100 micron screen type. The post has a stone element. I don't like that type. I took it out. I have a real nice 40 micron Earl filter I put in it's place. I think it is a vent problem. I'll make sure the little can thingy in the trunk isn't clogged.
 
russhal said:
Checked my fuel filters and they were clean as expected. The pre filter is a real nice 100 micron screen type. The post has a stone element. I don't like that type. I took it out. I have a real nice 40 micron Earl filter I put in it's place. I think it is a vent problem. I'll make sure the little can thingy in the trunk isn't clogged.
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I had a problem with my fuel supply one day also, but not like yours. I have the FCC and I was in stop and go traffic. Mostly stop traffic. Truck was running fine and then quit, pushed it off the side of road after trying to start many times. Had no fuel pressure so I hot wired pump to battery and still nothing, than I noticed I had no pressure from mechanical pump. I disconnected the hose from pump to FCC and turned it over and finally got fuel coming from pump. Hooked it back up and has been fine since. The truck had a return line originally witch I used for my vent from FCC. I think the mechanical pump does not like not having the return line on it but with the return in place I don`t get a steady pressure.
I have not tried to solve this yet as I had other problems with a bad handheld controller, I just got it back and am going to put it back on truck tonight and try and start tuning.
Need to somehow get my cold idle higher as it does not run high enough when cold.
 
ken5124 said:
Ok sounds good. I set my initial or base at 15. Then You tell the Handheld that your initial is 15. then you can change the idle advance higher if you want.
One it is running good, they recommend hooking a timing light up and revving it to 4000 rpm.
Compare that what the timing your light is seeing matches what the handheld is displaying at 4000. if it is off slightly there is a setting(VR ADVANCE 4000) to balance at higher rpm. This VRadvance 4000 setting is not for you to put in the timing you want at 4000 ( I made that mistake), but to alter the timing by a few degrees if the comparison isn't exact.

For example if at 4000 the timing light says 32 and the handheld says 30, you can add 2 degrees to the VRADVANCE 4000 setting

Hope that helps!

Ken
Click to expand...

Correct! initial is set by reading off the handheld, and then locking it in place there.
(EX: handheld says initial should be 15, then you lock it at 15 with a timing light) then adjustments can be made on the handheld from there.
 
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