freeze plug leaking

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reefkeeper

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I have a 318 in a 74 Duster. As I am trying to get all the leaks, rattles, and thumps addressed since my son bought the car the recent challenge is two freeze plugs leaking. They are leaking from the freeze plug itself via little pin holes... not from the edge seam where the freeze plug seals against the block.

My current thinking is to drain the block of anti-freeze and clean and dry the freeze plug... then JD Weld it. I really do not want to pull the engine out right now as I have so many other projects going on.
 
Replace the freeze plugs!You might stop a leak with the JB weld,but if all the freeze plugs are starting to rot from the inside it will go to the next weakest plug and find away to leak.When I first bought my car the PO had put rad stop leak in it.(Don,t do this)I replaced 2 bad plugs,then it found the weakest at the back of the motor.Pulled the motor and replaced all.
 
Yeah pettybludart is right on. That would be a temporary fix at best(one trip,cooling system is pressurized). If one is leaking they all are ready to go. You can pull the engine and replace in 1 day. I did my two rear plug in 8 hours with no help. If I were close to you I would help out in a jiffy. If you need any advise let me know.
 
If you have the space to use a rubber plug type it will last longer than JB. It is a rubber plug sealed to washers, tighten the nut and the plug swells to seal in place. Used to be only a few $, at parts stores.
 
thanks guys... anyone every try to do it from underneath with the engine still in the car? I think if I remove the exhaust manifolds and the starter I may be able to get at them... but I am concerned about trying to drive them in straight.

I may just bite off pulling the engine and replace the oil pan, gaskets as well as the head and intake gaskets.
 
Bite the bullet pull the motor pop out all the plugs flush the crap out and put brass plugs in. You will be much happier ask me how I know.
 
Well if the one over the starter is rusted through you can bet the one on the rear of the block in that corner isn't far behind. For some reason all kinds of crap build up in that corner and rust out the freeze plugs.
 
when i was breaking in the cam on my 360 one plug went flying lol so ya i did replace it with the motor in the car. it was the next to front one on the drivers side. with the power steering it was really hard and it is not in 100% straight. so i would pull the engine and do it. the engine is probably leaking in a place or two that you have not seen yet so then you can relace all that needs replaced and it will be better
 
going to tacklle it this weekend. Decided to pull the motor and replace them all.

Any advice on getting them out since I am not doing a full block tear down?
 
reefkeeper said:
going to tacklle it this weekend. Decided to pull the motor and replace them all.

Any advice on getting them out since I am not doing a full block tear down?
Click to expand...
Once the engine is out it shouldn't give you to much trouble. Just use a chisel and tap the inner edge of the freeze plug to pop it loose, if it wants to go into the block just grab it with some needle nose visegrips and pull it out.
Flush block with clean water untill all the brown crud is out and water runs clear, you can carefully scrape with a long shank screwdriver to make sure the passages are clear.
Make sure the hole are dry and then coat with some brown gasket sealer, I think it's #2, and then some on the edge of the plug. Find a socket you dont mind hammering on and fits the plug but not to snug because the plug compresses some and you won't get your socket back.:-D
Lightly tap to get started and ease it in to the jacket hole.
I hope this help's some, just shoot with any ???.
 
Thanks guys... Going to go to NAPA this afternoon to see if they have the plugs and a couple gaskets. I plan on replacing the head, intake, and oil pan gaskets as well.
 
watch out make sure its the freeze plug my valiant i thought had same thing turned out in the water portals in the timing chain cover was where it was leaking
 
it is definately the freeze plugs. One on each side. caked with residue and with the engine cold I can clean them... wait a minute and they are dripping, but very slightly.
 
nope... I have 2 two year olds that prevent me from taking the time. I need a solid day without distractions and I can't seem to get an hour much less 4 or 5 needed.

Thanks for checking in. I may get to it Sunday.

Don't plan on doing the head ones. I did go and get the new brass ones for the block the other day. Forgot to pick up the brown gasket sealer though. Will get it later tomorrow.
 
You should do the head ones also,that way they,re all new.Old anti-freeze turns acidic and if one or two are starting to rot from inside,I,ll guarranty the rest are.I just had to pull my steering column to replace one at the back off the head (drivers side)trust me it,s worth changing all.
 
It can be done from underneath without pulling the engine. I did lowers on a 66 273HP using a small shop hammer to get the plugs started. Then I went to a 2ft long piece of 2x2 and a 5 lb machinist hammer to drive them home. The Mopar needs a deeper plug than Brand X, otherwise it won't seat right. One of the reasons I got the 66 cheap was the PO couldn't keep plugs in it. A bolt-in he had installed would blow out if you revved the engine past 2500 rpm. Consequently, I'm not a fan of bolt-in plugs.
 
3 ? on each side; 2 in the back of the block, remove tranny; 1 on the back of each head.
Once one goes, the rest aren't far behind. Use brass ones. Been dealing with them since 1970. Just went through this with a 70 engine, sitting in the car since 87- saw one pin hole, tapped on some others; drip. no antifreeze, and a lot of crud in the block, it collects at the plugs for some reason, like a magnet.
 
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