FRUSTRATED! need help with carrier swap

[naus360scamp]

If you think it is bottoming out than you should be able to remove the side that goes all the way and then try the other axle. If it goes all way in like this than yes it is bottoming out. If it still won't go in your splines are not lined up!

if you had read the entire thread i have taken out the other side completely with the same result. so it has to be the splines that arnt lined up. but im saying it goes into the splines fine until the last half in. is there a set of splines that are a half an inch thick thats keeping out the shaft for me to bolt it in?


in my old carrier the thrust block had some play in it this thurst block thats in the carrier has no movement in it ive tried putting a dowel rod down the axle and watching both sides with help to see if it moves.... it does not move could that be my problem?

 

[fishy68]

so ur telling me that there is a second set of splines a half in thick in my carrier on one side???? and thats whats not lined up because when i had it out of the car it only had one set on each side i could be wrong though.

Yes that's what I'm saying. You are incorrect that there is only 1 spline. When their aligned you have to look real hard to see there is 2 sets. I have rebuilt numerous sure-grip units (clutch and cone type) and know absolutely beyond the shadow of a doubt that there is 2 sets of splines, both about 1/2" wide, on each side and they have to be perfectly lined up for the axle to go in. Your description tells me it's going into the first spline but the 2nd isn't lined up so it's not going in it. Sometimes their a real bugger to get aligned once their out of alignment. Especially if the sure-grip is nice and tight.

p.s. I know some of you guys will read my post and say the cone type is not rebuildable. Technically it isn't rebuildable like a clutch type. But you can machine the sides of the cones to get more life out of them as long as the carrier and/or cones aren't totally trashed.

 

[fishy68]

in my old carrier the thrust block had some play in it this thurst block thats in the carrier has no movement in it ive tried putting a dowel rod down the axle and watching both sides with help to see if it moves.... it does not move could that be my problem?

I've never saw that happen but I suppose something could be wrong that has the thrust block jammed. You'd have to pull the carrier to have a look see.

 

[naus360scamp]

Yes that's what I'm saying. You are incorrect that there is only 1 spline. When their aligned you have to look real hard to see there is 2 sets. I have rebuilt numerous sure-grip units (clutch and cone type) and know absolutely beyond the shadow of a doubt that there is 2 sets of splines, both about 1/2" wide, on each side and they have to be perfectly lined up for the axle to go in. Your description tells me it's going into the first spline but the 2nd isn't lined up so it's not going in it. Sometimes their a real bugger to get aligned once their out of alignment. Especially if the sure-grip is nice and tight.

p.s. I know some of you guys will read my post and say the cone type is not rebuildable. Technically it isn't rebuildable like a clutch type. But you can machine the sides of the cones to get more life out of them as long as the carrier and/or cones aren't totally trashed.

ok so my best bet would be to take out the carrier? or leave it in and try to realign these? basically what im saying is how do i fix this? do i turn it with the one side down and tap it in or what? thanks

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

if you had read the entire thread i have taken out the other side completely with the same result. so it has to be the splines that arnt lined up. but im saying it goes into the splines fine until the last half in. is there a set of splines that are a half an inch thick thats keeping out the shaft for me to bolt it in?


in my old carrier the thrust block had some play in it this thurst block thats in the carrier has no movement in it ive tried putting a dowel rod down the axle and watching both sides with help to see if it moves.... it does not move could that be my problem?

Read the whole post? I replied to your post 18 minutes after you started the thread! I have come to the conclusion that I am wasting my time trying to help you. Many people here have given you sound advice that for what ever you tend to ignore. I'm done, good luck.

 

[superchargeddrt]

i have never had to remove it. and i have used green bearings on numerous cars. also have used numerous moser axles and never had to pull it. seems most of the guys that have to pull it are using yukon axles for some reason.

X2

I have the green bearings on my car along with the Yukon BBP axles and they went in no problem.

 

[naus360scamp]

Read the whole post? I replied to your post 18 minutes after you started the thread! I have come to the conclusion that I am wasting my time trying to help you. Many people here have given you sound advice that for what ever you tend to ignore. I'm done, good luck.

dont get mad i wasnt trying to be mean or anything i just meant that i tried those things and still cant get it to work. i just wonder if im doing it right i cant be this dumb.... or maybe i can? dont be upset i didnt mean it like you think i did i just want this fixed already.

 

[naus360scamp]

X2

I have the green bearings on my car along with the Yukon BBP axles and they went in no problem.

i dont have green bearings or yukon axles so this does not help me maybe someone else

 

[naus360scamp]

Yes that's what I'm saying. You are incorrect that there is only 1 spline. When their aligned you have to look real hard to see there is 2 sets. I have rebuilt numerous sure-grip units (clutch and cone type) and know absolutely beyond the shadow of a doubt that there is 2 sets of splines, both about 1/2" wide, on each side and they have to be perfectly lined up for the axle to go in. Your description tells me it's going into the first spline but the 2nd isn't lined up so it's not going in it. Sometimes their a real bugger to get aligned once their out of alignment. Especially if the sure-grip is nice and tight.

p.s. I know some of you guys will read my post and say the cone type is not rebuildable. Technically it isn't rebuildable like a clutch type. But you can machine the sides of the cones to get more life out of them as long as the carrier and/or cones aren't totally trashed.

thanks i guess ill pull it and see whats going on.


and i thought this was gonna be a couple hour thing.... 3 weeks later.. ugh

 

[trebor75]

These are all advice about misaligned splines and how to get them aligned again. Print them out and take them with you next time you work on the car and I'm sure you get it fixed. I also posted an exploded view of the 8 3/4 axle a couple of post back, might come in handy aswell. Good luck.

Sounds like the cone splines and the side gear splines are not lined up! Take a large bar and turn the alxe a little bit till it will go in, you may have to tap on the end as you turn it. You need to lock down the other axle so it doesn't turn while your trying to get that alxe in.

Bolt a wheel/tire on the other side and let it rest on the ground. Next turn the other axle a little at a time while pushing or tapping on the end of it. It won't turn easy, it is a Sure grip after all, right. I have had this problem when a cone type SG was taken apart and then put together without using axle stubs to hold the teeth in line while bolting them together.

OK, if they are stock follow previously mentioned directions on securing the opposite side. What is happening is there is two sets of splines you are encountering, the first one slips in and the other one is probably not lined up, so inward pressure and rotation should pop it in there.

Try measuring it as suggested.

The splines are not lined up in the carrier DON'T CUT ANYTHING!!
Install a tire on the side that is in and put it on the ground.
On the there side take your longest pry bar and rotate the axle forward or backward in doesn't matter and push in or have a buddy tap with a hammer.
It will go in,just turn and tap.It may take a little force but keep working with it.

When you turn the axle it will take a little force because it will be tight.

good luck:burnout:

If the splines were not misaligned before they are probably gonna be so now. You are not supposed to turn it with just one axle in there. That is what causes the misalignment. You will get it back with instructions in previous post though so dont worry.

If everything is stock on your axle then there is a threaded adjuster (see pic) on the passenger side of the axle. You can try to back that of, then do the spline aligning trick. If you succed dont forget to set the axle play back to specs with the adjuster. Sorry bout my poor spelling and english.

I can also add that It can be both simple or quite tricky to get them aligned again. I had to use a pry bar and use quite some power to turn it and push in at the same time. Or maybe Im just not that strong lol! That was a cluth type sure grip. When I got them aligned the axle would finally settle nicely in all way. I had the same problem with a cone type but did not have to use the same force with that. Good luck!

Agreed. Cutting the axle may make it go in but if it doesn't engage into the inner spline the car won't move and you might destroy the sure grip unit to boot. I just read through the whole thread and it sure sounds like it's just a spline not aligned. Seen it happen several times. You just need to do what SG said earlier. Bolt the other axle in and put a tire on that side then put the side in that isn't going all the way and using a pry bar lodged in the wheel studs turn it while pushing in. It won't be easy but it'll go.

If you think it is bottoming out than you should be able to remove the side that goes all the way and then try the other axle. If it goes all way in like this than yes it is bottoming out. If it still won't go in your splines are not lined up!

Yes that's what I'm saying. You are incorrect that there is only 1 spline. When their aligned you have to look real hard to see there is 2 sets. I have rebuilt numerous sure-grip units (clutch and cone type) and know absolutely beyond the shadow of a doubt that there is 2 sets of splines, both about 1/2" wide, on each side and they have to be perfectly lined up for the axle to go in. Your description tells me it's going into the first spline but the 2nd isn't lined up so it's not going in it. Sometimes their a real bugger to get aligned once their out of alignment. Especially if the sure-grip is nice and tight.

p.s. I know some of you guys will read my post and say the cone type is not rebuildable. Technically it isn't rebuildable like a clutch type. But you can machine the sides of the cones to get more life out of them as long as the carrier and/or cones aren't totally trashed.

 

[oldkimmer]

...........Alright, ...Is the pic of the gears u took out or r putting in?..........pics will go along way.......kim.........sorry, i thought u posted the pic, but i see now u didnt

 

[naus360scamp]

...........Alright, ...Is the pic of the gears u took out or r putting in?..........pics will go along way.......kim.........

i have not posted any pictures because i broke my camera last time i went to work on it i dropped it and broke it

 

[Lonewolf3165]

Put some thick grease on the end of the axle or play-doh(clay) on it if you can get it to stick. Put the axle in carefully as not to disturb the clay or grease. When it bottoms out remove it carefully & check the clay or grease on the end & see if it's mushed. That'll tell you if its the end of the axle interfering or if it's something else like a spline not aligned.
A similar method can be used to check the spline depth by greasing the axle splines with white lithium grease & intalling the axle as far as it will go then remove it & check the splines, the grease will be smeared where the axle went into the splines but not where it wasn't. Now, without disturbing the greased splines, slide it into the old diff & compare the depth. If it goes into the old diff further check new one for misalignment or thrust block interference. Don't cut unless you have to.

You ca also apply the parking brake good & tight to hold the opposite axle steady when you try to align it if it helps to have the car jacked up higher, since you will have the one drum off you must have the opposite drum on though obviously.