fuel gauge reeds higher then what it should

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hoop

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My 72 dart fuel gauge reeds a little higher then what it post to, why douse it do this?
 

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Does the temp ga. work OK? They are both supplied by the instrument voltage limiter, which may be bad.

Have you replaced the sender with a repop? These are known for not having the correct resistance range.
 
Check ebay for a replacement cluster voltage reg. Many have done that. Electronic and much better and more reliable, ~$25 and easy to install.
 
If the limiter was the problem the temp gauge would read way wrong too.
If the wire from the sender should be shorted to ground in the trunk floor or behind the left kick panel ( common places for faults ) the gauge wouldn't live very long.
If the needle moves but always to the wrong place the gauge or the sender is at fault but not the wiring.
My best guess is the sender being your initial problem.
A new sender may not cure it though since a bimetal strip inside the gauge is being overheated ( per your pic ) by a faulty sender. Once that bimetal has a bow in it at room temperature, ( see pic below ), it's fecked. It wont respond and move the needle properly.

As bad as that gauge looks, it was working, just not very well.
 

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Think of the positive. With the price of fuel climbing you could get a lot more for the car if you ever sell it. Yup just filled her up for ya.
 
Does the temp ga. work OK? They are both supplied by the instrument voltage limiter, which may be bad.

Have you replaced the sender with a repop? These are known for not having the correct resistance range.

temp ga. never has worked, because it has a aftermaket one! I have replace the sender 2 times from darts around the same year, gauge work for a wall then start reeding wrong, so the gas hand started reeding lower then should & hafe tank on full, so I desided to put in a used gas gauge from a 72 ply. va. & now it reeds at max out & just now started reedin lower when you cut off key!
 
You need to separate the problem. Since the temp gauge does not work, this could very well be a VR problem.

So VR, gauge, or sender

If you can scare up some resistors, you can eliminate or condemn the sender, or if you can measure the sender resistance and diddle with fuel in the tank until it reads the required resistance, THEN you can check the gauge

Here's the homemade tester I made. You don't need this, though just the proper resistors, which are

L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1757106

OR as I said, you can diddle the amount of fuel in the tank until the sender READS one of the resistances, either full or half, and see if the gauge reads full or half.

That will at least tell you which end to start with
 
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