Gas gage reads full all the time!!!!!!!!

[Treblig]

So I got in my '69 Barracuda the other day and the gas gauge was reading beyond full (maxed out). I researched the problem here on FABO and many said to disconnect the wire at the tank and see what happens. Well when I disconnected the wire at the tank the gauge went to empty....so I guess the sender is bad. I checked on ebay and found many senders (from $39 to $109) for my car.....my questions is, "Which sender is the best to buy", I don't want any more problems. The car is mostly all original (survivor) and I'm sure that the sender is the factory unit?? It's been a great car with no issues.

treblig

 

[mopardude62]

Sir you have helped me out so many times with exhaust, I'm privileged to return the favor. Do not buy a new Chinese junk sending unit. I bought three of them and they were all complete crap! Send your original one to these guys to have it rebuilt >> Home They rebuilt my sending unit and I even sent them the gauge (it was already out) and they calibrated it to the sending unit so it read full when full and empty when empty.

 

[bbrroowwnn]

well all the aftermarket replacements read linear.....original mopar units are non-linear so the replacements are always off unless you use some sort of corrective circuit you can buy separate and program it to read correctly.....one thing I will say though, is on the aftermarket sending units when you fill it up they read full.....and when they get near "E" on the gauge you still have about 1/4 tank to 1/2 tank of gas left.....so you never run out.....

 

[cudascott]

Treblig,
I recommend sending your original sending unit out to be rebuilt. the repops are not very accurate.

 

[Treblig]

Thanks you guys!! That's what I read in some of the other posts about this problem. I don't mind sending the old sending unit in for repairs but would really not like to remove the gauge (removing dash again!!). But I do know that the gauge should be calibrated with the sending unit...can't they set up the old sending unit properly without the gauge?? They should know what a factory gauge needs when it comes to the ohms??

treblig

 

[67Dart273]

The problem is the people who make repop stuff just don't care. There has been rooms full of threads here on this subject. There is someone marketing a controller to correct the gauge which you can adjust, here

TechnoVersions - MeterMatch for Analog Gauge Correction

 

[krazykuda]

Keep the new sender in there, it'll get better gas mileage if it's always full....

 

[krazykuda]

Thanks you guys!! That's what I read in some of the other posts about this problem. I don't mind sending the old sending unit in for repairs but would really not like to remove the gauge (removing dash again!!). But I do know that the gauge should be calibrated with the sending unit...can't they set up the old sending unit properly without the gauge?? They should know what a factory gauge needs when it comes to the ohms??

treblig

You just need to check the sending unit to have the proper resistance at each stage...

10, 17, 23 ohms for full, half, empty.... If I remember correctly...

 

[crewchief]

Thanks you guys!! That's what I read in some of the other posts about this problem. I don't mind sending the old sending unit in for repairs but would really not like to remove the gauge (removing dash again!!). But I do know that the gauge should be calibrated with the sending unit...can't they set up the old sending unit properly without the gauge?? They should know what a factory gauge needs when it comes to the ohms??

treblig

There is a company out there that rebuilds the old non-linear sending units. Give them a shot first. I went thru the same problem, cost me dearly wasting $ on a replacement that was linear. Finally, finding an OEM one. I agree with 67 Dart.
Tri Starr LLC
1452 State Rte 89
Seneca Falls, NY 13148
Web: Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist

 

[cudascott]

the values for the sender are 10 full 23 half and 72 empty

 

[Treblig]

the values for the sender are 10 full 23 half and 72 empty

Well I can remove the original sending unit and check it but if it reads full all the time (except when I remove the wire) it must be messed up?? I'll have to drain the tank because it was filled just last week. What I was hoping was that I could buy a new one (or OEM, NOS) and swap them out but since every one seems to think that it's better (and smarter) to get the old one refurbished....that's probably the best solution. Hate to have the car sit for 2 weeks but sometimes it just can't be helped??
I'll call Tri-Star and see what they have to say.

Thanks to all!!

treblig

 

[fatoldguy]

Just a quick note make sure the ground is good , had trouble with mine and I had a bad ground. Can't remember if it went to full or not ,memory sucks when you get old . But worth a try before taking tank out.

 

[cudascott]

your float is probably hung up. while driving the float is constantly moving up and down and in time the moving contact rubbing on the wire resistor wears a hole in the moving contact and has a tendency to hang on the resistor wire

 

[gtxdude]

Sir you have helped me out so many times with exhaust, I'm privileged to return the favor. Do not buy a new Chinese junk sending unit. I bought three of them and they were all complete crap! Send your original one to these guys to have it rebuilt >> Home They rebuilt my sending unit and I even sent them the gauge (it was already out) and they calibrated it to the sending unit so it read full when full and empty when empty.

I also used APT for my dash and sending unit, very pleased with the results. I live close by so I just brought my stuff over to them.

 

[Treblig]

your float is probably hung up. while driving the float is constantly moving up and down and in time the moving contact rubbing on the wire resistor wears a hole in the moving contact and has a tendency to hang on the resistor wire

Yea, I've seen that before as well so one of the things I did when the gauge got stuck is drive around and slam on the brakes to make the gas slosh around to break it loose...no joy!! But it still could be stuck, I just hate draining the full tank to remove the sender and would prefer to have a replacement sender to swap them out while I'm under the car.

Treblig

 

[mopardude62]

I would thing emptying the tank would be lots of fun in your car!! A couple of runs down the interstate sounds like a lot of fun!! LOL

 

[Treblig]

I would thing emptying the tank would be lots of fun in your car!! A couple of runs down the interstate sounds like a lot of fun!! LOL

You have a good point there!! Not to mention all the "thumbs up" and cell phone pics from all the "regular" cars. But the fun will stop when I run out of gas because my gas gauge says that the tank is always "full"!!

Treblig

 

[Yote]

If you want a repop I will send you a near new one only used a couple days for shipping $ only. Repops ---- well, I don't want another one. I found a good origional and it works.
Yote

 

[Treblig]

If you want a repop I will send you a near new one only used a couple days for shipping $ only. Repops ---- well, I don't want another one. I found a good origional and it works.
Yote

Tote, I appreciate the offer but I plan to send the original sender off to be rebuilt.

Thanks,
Treblig

 

[Yote]

Good choice !!!
Yote

 

[kiss]

See this thread:
Fuel tank sending unit for 1966 Dart?

 

[RedFish]

Inside the OEM sender with a square box on it... There is a resistor wire wound on a fiber board. That board shrinks with age thus the wire becomes slack and lifts away from the board. Then there's traveling contact that is/was shaped like the top half of a bagel. That wears through to get more of a fish hook shape. Thus is catches/hangs onto the loose/lifted wire. Once you have the sender on the workbench you could open the little box and see if this is what you find but... you'll probably have to break this snag before the assembly will come out of the hole when its spread to full. Good luck with it